plinkercases

Just a functional question/observation... it looks like the mag release contacts the holster at the point where the flap bends over backwards. Their may be the chance of an accidental release when holstering, or of the grip of the holster is pushed in towards the body fro any reason. then the dreaded clunk when drawn. I always try to keep well clear of the release and safeties in my designs. And a curiosity question... why the cut out on the flap at the belt line? And kuddos on the use of the saddlers stamp and finish.

Colt and MadMax, S stump may be ok fro stationary work but I used the poundo in different sizes and shapes along with shoe lasts and steel pieces to punch on awkward places/paces and also I don't have floor space for stump or even a slab of tree to lift onto bench.... maybe a slab... I could look into that for when I need more area... Red cent... I have an arbour press but those look excellent...

same approach as my63 and more often than not I use a press I made from a hand operated press screw form lee valley tools set in a frame. One operation to worry about rather than several clamps at once. However some bits have required the clamp approach. I am working on perfecting my guide rod/pin arrangement to ensure consistent alignment. Question for my63... do you punch whole in the leather and run your guide posts through it to keep the leather piece positioned? it look like you do based on how close they are to the edge of the mold cut line.

Here is link to making bag bottoms. This is where I saw how to do a flat bottom for shooting bags. In my case I sewed al the way around with two panels front and back but the concept is the same when you have a folded single piece as per above. I think they are also called gusset corners and in the case on this link boxed corners and they show several ways to create them http://www.thesewingdirectory.co.uk/bag-bottoms/

nananananananana- cool man!

I work almost exclusively standing at my benches and large cutting table. My work benches are between the belly (button) and solar plexus as with others here. I stand on good garage/work matts or a wooden platform with slight flex to take the strain off the feet and legs. I also have a rotating bar stool with a low back on it that I will pull up and sit on for a break now and then and depending on what the task is. The big cutting table is lower to allow reach over the area. I sit to stich on the horse and with the pony and in both these cases, on the advice of my chiro the jaws are at a height such that when awling and stitching my arms are raised parallel to the floor and level with my shoulders. That adjustment alone relieved a lot of trouble do to repetitive motions in a raised potion and allows for best transfer of power to the awl. And in all cases lots of clip lights to move around and eliminate shadows combined with lots of general fill light with mixture of warm and cool light quality bulbs.

I can tell the difference between leather, vinyl and leather laminated cloth by doing a test cut and checking out the back side.. before I go to the trouble of skinning it. I will take the laminate if it is a cool colour, good shape etc. as it is fine for making some crappy things I am not going to sell.

sound like a stall matt. I think I will try again and place it on my granite block....

I just tried to stall matt and it is has too much bounce for punch work...

I have a dead airgun replica which is spot on as far as I have heard. I am in Toronto Canada but can ship no worries. I would be OK just to borrow one of yours sometime as long as you are OK shipping them across the boarder.... return this at the same time to save on shipping perhaps. Not sure if that helps.

I used road side couch hides to make shooting bags, D&D game book covers, draw string pouches, tool roles for punches etc., work aprons, small yoga/sailor type bags,.. still coming up with ideas and stalking the curb sides for more.

Nice and clean. Well done.

I am building one right now and actually am welting the whole pocket for three reasons: the blade is very think the blade is very sharp!! I certainly wont leave either the stitching or the pocket itself without protection. it is a cross draw so the blade is far more likely to be drawn against the blade side stitching I will post pics later then finished this weekend. here is a lesson learned... place the belts slots far enough away to allow fro the transition from full thickness welt at the pocket to zero between the layers... I just made it but would leave a little more room next time. Actually remembered I did this one and welted all round as well but the slots were higher than the welt fro the most part so that made it a little easier.

I made one a little beefier than the Tandy and with a more user friendly tightening method - I used a tie down ratchet strap and it work well for one hand operation. You can take the base off with one bolt/nut and the base goes under the thighs when sitting on any chair and is very stable. You are likely going to have to make something to go with a commercial unit (Their other options than Tandy but basically the same form factor)

Agreed with Mike. I strop them, on the bottom, a lot, I have a home made strop board based on Stohlman diagram. No need to buy some wood and leather from someone else.... For real sharpening Al Stohlman's tool book shows how to go it with a combination ro round stones, slip stones and small round jewelers file depending on edger size. The whole section on sharpening tools is excellent.

hobby = jobby real fast when people find out what you do!

If its your project, design and execution and it worked it sure isn't cheating!

Nice job on the gusset corners. That is tough to do even with practice. Big win all round it seems... you in making it your "customer" in using it!!

Good you pushed through and as has been said your stitching and edging look real good for someone who has only made a few pieces. Keep it up!

I got my first direction from the Stohlman books and use a piece of 1/4+inch felt cut into a /12 inch strip then tapered a little on the business end. After a few passes the tip gets a nice contour which takes the edge coating just around the edge and follows the edge contour nicely. with a little practice it is very consistent. Then when done I let the end harden, cut it off and ready to go for the next time. I will post some pics as I am about to do some edging.

Very nice.

Then make slip jackets for a small note book. I also use the couch hides for book covers and works great.

Small draw string bags? I make those out of road side couch hides and sell them to the fantasy game folks for there dice and figures etc. They could carry his memory on them....

OK there are a few Rona near me. Thanks

Bonecross thanks I am a Canuck as well and will look for this. Home depot? Lowes? Home Hardware?