plinkercases

I like the rustic look to the project. looks like a stone oiled to me... but... strange the Tandy fella want more knowledgeable (sarcasm)

Wow..... great design and attention to details like edging and beading all the edges. I am sure the customer will be very please.

WOW. do you engrave the silver plates yourself? Also is that real or artificial shearling? hard to tell and I assume real but.... curious is all.

Yah not trying to be critical just curious thanks. I have on of these on my wish build list but don't even seem to get to the bench at all these days between obligations and commitments. It is a relaxing "jobby" for me (hobby that maybe sort of almost pays fro itself!). Perhaps this summer I can take a try at one and let you pass on some tips.

Yes Dwight that makes it very clear.... don't knock your artistic side! question I have is.... in a period correct model would they would have had dome snaps? so what would the fastening method have been? mind you I am not sure what period a money belt gun belt is from and perhaps they had snaps?

Ok that all makes sense Dwight thanks.

Dwight what are the snaps beside the keeper for? And I assume you mean that you leave enough length from the "mouth" of the money pouch for the bills and then the rest of the belt length is glued full width. correct?

Really nice work. I like the alternating camo boarder.

classic lines nice and clean. Well done and welcome. And everyone will know who they belong to!

Just wow and thanks for the extra pics. Cant wait to see what's next.

Sorry for your loss and "well done" to you as well.

Dave I am a tri-weave fan and also really like the lacing touch around the flap edges. Nice work and nice looking pistol too. I agree that the book patterning guides need a little more room as his leather weight guide is lighter than I generally use. And for sure I have learned to watch even more for the chunkier semi-autos or big barrelled revolvers... and rails...etc. I must have been ambidextrous when I started because 50% of the holsters I made were lefties! Now every pattern gets a big sharpie shout out "RH this side UP" marked on it... immediately. JLS I am not sure what you mean by the comment "I never did - and still don't -- "get" that thing about tracing the gun"... your own tutorials talk about tracing the outline so I assume you do but were working towards making the valid point made about watching how you trace... parallax, (perpendicular, etc)... so other than being very careful and consistent with the mechanics when tracing (which is a hard thing to "get") I don't see another way to pattern. (maybe card stock and stapling around the gun but...) Just curious.

O&S. I often die before assembly and then another coat after wet molding and working the edges again and agree it takes the dye real well. Glad your hands are back in action for you and nice looking fish scale (at least that's what I would call it... what is it called?)

Very nice thanks for the pics and experience with it.

Yup the wallet is very sharp. Good work and welcome!

Lots of different approaches and you can try them all to find out what works for you. I have always worked the way Stohlman set out in his books (finish the edge, groove front and back lightly, overstitch wheel to mark spacing, hand awl) and have been happy all along with all thicknesses I work with. For the blind side unless you punch both sides as some do I target line or groove helps me. but make both the front and back lines when the edge is done. Then it is a matter of keeping the work held firm in a pony, horse, vice as the case may be and working on consistency with the awl angles On my current projects I have just started using the stitching chisels on a light guide line punching just into the first layer and I am still using the hand awl.. Kind of a hybrid I guess as I just like the awl work for some reason still - mind you I am not in a production time=money deal here. Next I will try punching the chisel all the way through the layers but assembled not before. In almost all cases the basic principle is to mark or groove a guide both sides after gluing and the edges are finished (i.e. evened out and rounded/burnished first pass) and then use some mechanism to mark or pound at a consistent spacing and control the awl or chisels. and no matter what tools or process.. practice, practice, practice,... and have fun and find what you are successful with and that is your way.

Good bush holster for sure and I think the weave looks ok. A bigger weave would have made the Ruger look even smaller in scale. Nice job.

Yup Joon got it. I was stuck on the retention strap being on the middle section (from a previous think through) and thus could not get the stamping on the same side all round. Good work thanks,

Great work and has been said those are some fine edges and finishes.

I have been experimenting and unless it is two layers bonded flesh to flesh (this I don't think it is since there is only stitching at the pouch seems and the edges look single layered) the only way I can see it working (and based on the double stitch line on the long side) I think it is two pieces joined at the long seam with the grain side facing opposite directions so you can have stamping on the retention strap and the belt loop wrap around. So I would build it like this. - if two layers then it can be one piece)

Well g'day eh! nice to meet not just another Canuck but an Ontarian. And again nice job on you holster. Love to see some more of your work.

That is a great set up. I like the idea of the glass for gluing/skiving. Looks like you are set make saddles with the saddle horse? What are you using as your cutting mat?

If he carried enough candy bars he will soon need one of your insulin pouches! where in Canada are you?

Excellent job,. I make holsters for epipens and the ones for myself also carry some on board emergency meds. I don't wear the real holster looking version often here in Canada as I have been road sided by a cop who assumed I was a police officer and pointed to by "holster"!

from my experience and looking at the pictures.....The leading wing is too short for the position you are wearing it in and your "geometry".at the hip bone.. and the serious cant of the pistol will make it hard for a "wrap around" the hip. it may work back at 4-5 o'clock or forward at more of a appendix carry where you are "flatter". The pattern will need to be mocked up against you side and if it is going to work out wear you wear it and with that cant. If it will work out. All that aside it is nice looking holster and I haven't seen those belt clips before. Where are they sourced? Hope this is of some use.