pete

That's why you run multiple loops in your belt. I run 2-3 and let the slack and popper hang well below it.

you're right! I used a loaded one and the hole came out REALLY clean! Can't get the powder burns off though.....oh well....kinda looks like antique pete

what the heck is a get down loop? Thought that I had hard it all. If you mean the 6 or so feet of mecate from your near side tugs (I'm a snaffle bit man myself) make a series of loops and tuck them under your belt on the left side. You can fly off something pretty salty and your still attached (for 6 feet or so!) DON"T put it on the right side!!! You'll hang up getting on or off!!!

First off- kudos to you and your 2nd saddle! I've seen folks with their 10th that wasn't as clean and well done. Secondly, how DID you finally get the stamp to run true? Did you run score lines first? Took me and lot of others here awhile to run a basket stamp well! Nice work- post your next!! pete

I KNOW that you had this figured out- but if you whack it a little harder, it makes a really clean cut, whereby you can take your center shader and make a really nice center with or without seeds. Also you can take a modeler and gently round the edges for a domed center. Thanks for noticing my post!! pete

Beautiful work- as always!!! Where do you get your leather? It's always so "clean" looking. Flawless and consistent in color. thanks pete

Mix Bick's#4 with dye. Rub it on and then buff a few minutes late. Water resistant(VERY) and even dye job. pete

be aware that there is a difference between background and matting tools. One isn't just bigger. Matting is a technique to gently fade the edges to nothing whereas backgrounding is generally used to deeply push down the leather between the carving shapes. pete

Let me know when you have a dvd ready. Put me down for one! LOVE your dad's work pete

depends on what you are using them for. Hard work or light riding in light brush etc. I like 3/4 or so. Heavier or use mule hide for farrier work, tall mesquite,etc. Where are you riding? Springfield leather, Zack White, etc...all are good for leather. pete

whaaaaaaa???? I thought that this was a leather website.

Let me make your life easier from now on. Get ahold of a soda bottle with a SCREW ON cap. One of those soft plastic ones like you would get root beer or Sierra Mist in. Punch a hole in the top with your scratch awl- about the diameter of a pencil lead. Get a piece of wool scrap as large as you want. I use a 2x2" piece for WEEKS. Pour in the barge, master, whatever you like. Squeeze out the glue when you need it, use the wool as an applicator, and stick it to the top over the hole when you're done. Never hardens, never clogs the hole- throw it away when it's empty. end of story. pete

Welcome to the wonderful world of leather!!! Seriously, I have a few quite expensive straight and angled knives and after years of swapping around, I wouldn't trade my 3/8" angled ceramic for any of them. Lot's of folks don't like the ceramics but for me they glide through the leather with occasional stropping whereas I get drag from my best blades after a short time. To answer your question better- I "grew up" with angled blades and can't use a straight blade to save my soul. They undercut the leather around corners and I can't get used to tilting it when I use it. The angled blades can be used straight up and down due to their design, and curves are no problem. Just make sure that they are sharp and stropped all the time. I hope that this has helped. pete

If your leather is cased well, it looks like you are simply hitting too hard. Do you have the beveler lightly in your fingers? Are you pushing down as you strike? Let it almost bounce as you use it and get a rythym going as you do it. From the looks of the picture it doesn't appear to be veg tanned leather . Is it? That would be the problem too. I believe in beveling well rather than having to rely on the modeling tool to go over the entire piece. practice! pete

Great work! Again!!!! Tell me please- HOW do you make your double creases?!!! What tool do you use . I have an adjustable creaser(cheap Tandy with a screw adjustment) . Do you have to bevel each side? pete

Try using dividers. They sit over the edge better and make a good line. Then you can use the freehand groover. Also- you can use the (l shaped) groover better by adjusting it a hair width wider than the line needed and hang the rounded part over the side more. Don't have much to play with as the groover won't cut if it isn't sitting pretty vertical. Are your edges really square and vertical? Try sanding and true-ing them up first, run the groover, and then edge and burnish. pete

Steve- Beauty work as usual! What do you use for the parallel lines on the seat? I have a single crease and the lousy one(adjustable) that Tandy sells. It has a screw on the side but the edges are different thicknesses and is sort of made for an edge crease if anything. Do you have a double creaser, who makes it and do you have to go back and bevel each side/does it cut or just scribe the lines? thanks pete

Different makers and makes are sometimes slightly different even though the number is the same. I would start with a # 2 and #3 keen edge beveler from Tandy. They work fine and should handle the thicknesses that you are going to use the most for your projects. I have a #1 and have never used it and it was the most expensive. I'de be glad to sell i if anyone wanted it!! pete

thanks Darcy! That helped too! pete

thanks everyone- I will get it done and hopefully post a few pictures wether I get it right the first time or not. I always learn the best from the boo-boos.

Thank you so much Keith. THAT"S what I needed to know- enough slack in the bottom to take off and put back on. I just didn't think that if it was that big that it would eventually tighten up again. pete

thanks so much for the information pete

I'm trying to do a 1 piece welt. I used really heavy leather for the cover not thinking. I want to be able to slit down the swells and sew them together at the seam(blind stitch??) I may have to punch holes and lace them but I want to know for the next one.Thanks so much for your help. pete

Here's the problem. I have almost finished a saddle with a pretty healthy set of swells. The customer wants them blind stitched rather than laced. The Stohlman books say (and show) that the swells are simply shaped, taken off turned inside out, stitched, popped back right side out, and replaced. HOW THE HECK do you get them back on after sewing? I can't stretch them enough to get them over the swells and horn as the swell undercut is too much. Do I have to cut the cover in front of the horn or behind the horn and place each side on and then lace it back together? Please help as I need to finish this project. pete