Hockeymender

I have a Consew 227-R-2 that has for a very long time been on an off the arm table with a speed reducer and a Goldstar GBSM550S servo motor with a needle positioner. I purchased a new table (same type just much nicer) and moved everything to the new table. When I get everything together, the needle positioner refuses to work. The motor stops when the pedal is released, but the machine runs till it has expended all its energy. I have tried different motors (have several of this type), syncronizers and control boxes, all with the same result. The only way the needle positioner will work is if I bypass the reducer and go motor to machine (which is to fast). Cannot figure out what happened between tables to produce this issue. Open to any ideas.

I have run 160 needles in my 335's many times (currently run that size in my 335 set as a binder). The largest thread that I have found that works well is 138. Above that, things start to get a little dicey.

Uwe, I should have the same manuals as Glenn, I will look to be sure. PM me and I'm sure we can work something out to get them uploaded.

I have a stand alone, motorized bobbin winder and it's one of the most valuable tools in my shop, wouldn't want to be without it. I can wind bobbins for all my machines on it in very short order. Once you have one of these, you'll wonder how you ever lived without it!

I would think any clear sewing machine oil would be fine. The machine suppliers that advertise here will have it. Can be had in several size bottles up to a full gallon. That's all I use in all my machines.

Not as smooth as Pfaff...just my 2.5 cents.....

It is my understanding that the Cowboy and the Cobra machines are made in "A" rated Chinese factories. The Techsew may be as well. The overall quality of the Cowboy is excellent and has served me well. It would be wonderful to have these machines made in the U.S., but those days are long past.

Sold

I am going to convert it from a knee lift to a foot lift. Thought I could get away with just running a chain from the lift bar on the back to a foot pedal....boy was I wrong! To work properly there needs to be a check spring, and another, adjustable arm attached to the existing lift bar. All those parts are ordered, just waiting for their arrival. Figured a pic of an existing foot lift setup would help as a guide.

Thanks for the info Uwe. Unfortunately those photos show the back of 1245's with knee lifts. I'm looking for pix of the back of a 1245 that has been set up with a foot lift.

Was wondering if anyone has a service manual for the Pfaff 1245 of the era pictured? All I can find are manuals for the newer style. Also, if anyone has a 1245 like this one with a foot lift, could you please post a photo of the lift mechanism on the back of the machine? Thanks in advance.

Around $1200.00 tops for that machine.

It's good to know that I'm not the only one that has had that happen!

Pull off the end cap that surrounds the hook. Remove the throat plate. On the base of the hook there is a collar with two screws in it. Now it really helps if you have a set of gauges at this point, but that said, those two screws need to be loosened so the hook can be moved on it's shaft. Turn the balance wheel to move the needle bar to bottom dead center, and then raise it about 2mm (that number is variable). At this point you want to move the point of the hook to the center of the needle scarf. Re-tighten the screws on the hook shaft while keeping the hook in that sweet spot mentioned above, replace the throat plate then the end cap and thread the machine. If it's done right, the needle will pick up the bobbin thread when you cycle it thru (I always do that by hand after timing the machine). I'm sure this is all clear as mud, but it really is not that difficult to do. Hope this helps!

Having two 335 machines the first thing I check is the needle/hook timing. Also check that the needle bar height is correct for the needles you are using. Also, when making these checks set the stitch length to the setting you will be using. I'm guessing you have installed binder feet.....make sure those are properly seated, and the needle passes thru the needle holes correctly. Those are the things I would start with. Others may have some ideas as well. BTW, the 335 is a great binding machine, been using mine for years with very little trouble.

It would be nice if the person responsible for it's deletion would outline the reasoning for it, but.............

Guess the old saying is being applied here- "never bite the hand that feeds you"

Selling my Sailrite Ultrafeed LS-1 machine. Used twice. Will handle up to 92 thread without difficulty. Has reverse. Equipped with the EZ set stitch length plate. Comes with needles, bobbins and detachable thread stand. Is set up in heavy duty carry case (see photo). $500 Prefer local pick up. Metro Detroit area.

Thanks for the upload Constabulary, that completes the "library" for my Cowboy 4500. Great having these manuals on a tablet, saves a lot of shelf space.

I'm guessing that motor should work with the 69. It really depends on what you are looking to accomplish with it, and what type of table you have it set up on. If you are using and off the arm type table, be sure that you can change the rotation of the motor as some off the arm setups require the motor to be mounted "backwards" to accommodate the confines of the table.

On my second 69-373. They are great work horses. Very similar to the 335. The one plus for the 335 is that it has a larger bobbin. I have run 138 thread in it without problem. As for the servo motor, that is depandant on which servo motor you buy and if it has a needle positioner or not. Can't address the leather question, as I don't work with leather. Overall the Adler 69-373 is an excellent machine...in my opinion.

Every 335 I have had (that's been several) have all had a thread guide at the bottom of the needle bar. That said, I guess there are bound to be exceptions to the mainstream however.

I got some TriFlow a couple weeks back and have found it to be an excellent choice for machines that are manually lubed. Gave the necessary spots a genorous spray and it has seemingly done a great job providing the required protection. That said, keep in mind that my machines are not being run hard all day long. A happy TriFlow user....so far.

I have ordered a couple different foot types, both for the 111 and have had no difficulties getting them to work with my 227R-2. Others here may have more in-depth knowledge however.

Tinker, You have hit on the general premise of this whole thread, is there something that can do a better job of lubricating my machines? In a factory environment I can see where you stick with something that does the job for machines running flat out all day, everyday. However that said, it does not necessarily mean there is not something out there that may well be "the cats ass" for machines like mine. I have used Balistol in the past and have found it to work very well. Does a great job cleaning the running gears of older machines as well as lubing them. Wondered if TriFlow fit in there as well. Guess I'm just trying to think outside the box.