Evo160K

You're welcome, Wiz. Btw, I would keep the gradient from Leather Machine Company, it's working well, I would just darken it at the dead spot.

Wiz. If you want to try to smooth out that dead spot, you might take the cover off and note exactly where the gradient is when you get the hesitation. Some part of that area under the light beam, I believe it's the trailing part, needs to be darker, maybe a couple more pencil lines. Dare say, you might even be able to hold a pencil lead or small nail or something similar there first to block light to see where it speeds up, that will pinpoint exactly where you want to make lines to darken the gradient. The darker you make the gradient (less light getting through to the eye), the faster the motor runs. You can go darker or lighter to tailor the ramp up to your liking. Although the gradient is about an inch wide, as far as I can tell, it's only the portion that passes under the light beam from dead stop to top speed that concerns us. It may take a bit of marking and erasing, but you'll get it smoothed out for sure. It's not rocket science like I first thought.

Perhaps this Is what you want?

Hopefully there's a video here now. I believe you'll need to download it to play it. My apologies for it being upside-down. If someone could correct it all and re-post it, that would be great. It shows how much low end control and punch you can get with the modification while still having full control as the speed increases. I made a card from a manila, file folder and cut a small segment in the center of the leading edge (like in red below) about the same diameter as the beam. It's similar to sketch #3 shown at 6:27 of the video in the second link. I also used a pencil to tailor the speeds to my liking. I could have increased top speed by making the trailing end of the card darker, but saw no need. https://www.icloud.com/attachment/?u=https%3A%2F%2Fcvws.icloud-content.com%2FB%2FAdOVj50mTxcKiXLxatmavInIZaCyAXOXjq4_y0CyfxT5zXjEpsItW3AY%2F%24{f}%3Fo%3DArQQDesgQCQ_vkQiXfnmOjjC2xxXRVc55LFzgrR4mVgw%26v%3D1%26x%3D3%26a%3DBbUeQCmI4LKBAzuXNwEA_wHIAP8E4CEC%26e%3D1480895672%26k%3D%24{uk}%26fl%3D%26r%3DD3465993-54E5-4A2D-B959-6768C7D74067-1%26ckc%3Dcom.apple.largeattachment%26ckz%3D9FABDD43-F4CD-4AB1-B195-92D284A1EB74%26p%3D53%26s%3DRzt6gAXB3n86lgfio0BH9vUfyww&uk=gq-hM38k-kV2NQWIe-TMCA&f=IMG_4535.MOV&sz=92358274

Last year after picking up a couple of old machines to restore, I decided to try sewing. Of course, I immediately ran into the problem of controlling the clutch motor on the Singer 45K25 and the CS-1000 3/4 HP servo motor on the Singer 45K53. Well I was just about at my wits end trying to control those motors when I stumbled onto the LW post by DDahl that led me to search the internet further and eventually to the two links and videos below that explain how to modify a servo controller. Apparently servos are all pretty much generic in their design. The first link is the same modification member Trox tried and mentioned in one of his posts, and the same one member J Hayes tried and liked. The second link shows a refinement of the method in the first link. A number of people must have seen the first video, but apparently not tried it, because people are still asking about slowing down servos. They must have felt like I did when I first read it and watched the videos. I thought no way can I do that..........I hate electricity that “black art”, but after several more viewings and a look inside at the controller, I realized the modification is really quite simple. Anyone who can use a pencil, an eraser, a scissors and a screwdriver can do it. I’ll bet our middle school kids and grandkids can do it.......maybe younger. The theory is, the more light the electric sensor eye sees, the slower the machine runs; conversely, the less light the electric eye sees, the faster the machine runs. So the idea is to modify the paper card that blocks the light ray the eye sees, so you get the control you want. The video in that second link shows just how much control you can get.......it really works amazingly well. Read and watch everything a couple of times, it’ll make good sense, particularly once you look inside the controller. The next thing I learned, is the slower the start speed rpm is set with the up/down buttons, the greater the torque you get, so set your start speed to "0" or what ever is the slowest, if your machine has that option.......maybe experiment with the start speed setting. Once you realize what’s going on, you can fine tune your start speed and top speed to anything you want......no more start slow with no torque, then “Oh S—t” like member JimC said. Another plus is, it doesn’t cost a dime to do. http://www.swflholsters.com/358/sewing-servo-motor-diy-smoother-speed-control-mod-paper-gradient/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wu2OT9MtzMc&feature=youtu.be I made a short video with the wife’s iphone showing my K53 with 50 mm pulley, speed reducer, 277 BP thread, 24 leather point needle and two pieces of 14 oz. veg tan (28 oz.), but wouldn’t you know, I’m having trouble uploading it. I promise it shows the machine starting at one stitch every two seconds and gradually increasing like in the video in the second link above.

Parts List http://dixiesewingmachine.tzo.com/MANUALS/JUKIPARTS1/LU-562 & LU-563 Parts List (No.0026-08) BE5620TOPJA.pdf

Thank you Gentlemen. Sincerely appreciate your information. I was intrigued by the fact the subclass stands alone, (as Glenn mentioned), with so many similar machines immediately before and after. Didn't seem to make sense to me. What advantages did it have?. Was it a popular subclass?

What are the primary differences among these three machines? Is the 70 the oldest subclass? Thank you

Bob, sure is easy enough to whip up some tinfoil and a heat lamp. I have an infra red heat gun, so we'll see what temp the heat lamp reaches. @ Madmaxx22 thanks for that link. I've been reading as many of those japanning articles as I can find. There's some really interesting information out there.

Would you think it would get up to 400 degrees F? That's my understanding of the temperature required to cure the japanning. I'm also told it will cure naturally and with out heat over 30 days. Would you know? Thank you Bob. Those machines must have applied one hell of a torque to those bolts. Really enjoy that video.

Thank you good people for your thoughts and advise. Being new to restoring anything significant, I'm banking heavily on your guidance with this machine. I have so much respect and admiration for these old Singers and appreciation for the genius, quality and engineering that went into their making, I need to do my best to make a good result. @ Cowboy Bob You've convinced me. If you, a respected professional, recommend against it, you can bet I'm not going to take the chance of splitting the machine. Thank you. @ Yetibelle Fine looking machine you have there, major improvement. Did the 50/50 blend eliminate the brush marks? Why did you choose brush over spray? Thanks for that amazing video; I'm wondering if those machines went up to an oven before they came back down and were taken off the conveyer. I've read the Ford model T japanning conveyor did take the parts through an oven on an upper floor. I'm thinking for the japanning to reach the required hardness in hours rather than in weeks, baking was required. About decals, Keeler Sales in Florida has a broad range of Singer decals. http://www.keelersales.com/ @ TinkerTailor If I can't find a reasonably priced, used, oven that will work, I'll have to bite the bullet and take it to someone that has one. I wanted to avoid that, but I may not have a choice. Thanks for your support.

from the cylinder/base on the Singer 45K25 that we're restoring? We're considering applying as near an original japan finish as we can which involves baking........we believe. The full head is too large to fit in the oven, and we're hesitant to ship it out for baking, thus the question. Btw, the three bolts holding the two parts together are incredibly tight. Did they use thread lockers in the late 1930's early 40's?. Thanks for your input.

CD, Is there a way to slightly loosen the four screws, put a clear, Ziploc, polybag around that end of the head, finish removing the four screws and then gently let the face plate and whatever? fall into the polybag?

Good information, thanks, Mike. I believe the decals are the float type, but at this point I'm not sure, they may be the type like in the Singer film where the decal is placed on the surface and the paper peeled away. I need to experiment with one. The chassis paint sounds like it's the way to go, but, I'll also run by the airport and try to talk with people who paint helicopters and planes. Thanks so much for your help, Mike. Al

Mikesc, That's an impressive reply. Thank you, thank you very much. It's more than obvious you put a great deal of time, thought and effort into it......I appreciate it, and your background with custom painting certainly reinforces ones confidence in your words. Since I'm totally unfamiliar with serious paint and painting, I'm going to have to take the time to digest and understand your words. Fancy and unusual paints and colors are not in my plan. I have some authentic, original, Singer decals, so I would like to paint the machine with the most accurate and durable black available, preferably the original Singer type paint if available. In Singer's fascinating, documentary film "BIRTH OF A SEWING MACHINE" ( http://movingimage.nls.uk/film/1592 ) at 15:08 you can see the heads being dipped, they refer to it as japanning and mention some parts are sprayed. If you haven't seen the film, it's well worth watching. It starts a bit slow, but stay with it....you'll enjoy it. Thanks again Mike.....

The shuttle tension spring is not really rough but I feel like its related to the problem because it is limited on the amount of tension it can apply. Hackish it looks like the spring has been bent down to try to create more tension on the thread. If so, that may be because a groove has been worn into the shuttle underneath the spring? I salvaged one of my shuttles by having a welder fill in that groove with a spot of weld......smoothed it down with a dremel tool....worked fine after that. I'm not sure how much is necessary when sewing such thick material. Aren't the needle and bobbin threads supposed to cross in the center of the goods, is that the case for the 7-33?

Yetibelle, Thank you for your kind words. If I can't perfect the japanning, I'll have to use a more modern type of paint. What type and brand of paint thinner and enamel paint do you use, there are so many? Do you brush or spray? Thank you.

Coincidently my 45K53 had the same problem recently with the feed dog screw, it wouldn't tighten down enough on the feed dog, letting it drop. The mechanic who's helping me restore the machine put a small, copper shim in behind the feed dog screw, the copper, of course, crushed and held the dog and screw tight. He said there were singers that he maintained for his employer that used small, serrated, copper washers; I don't remember if he mentioned where they were used. Others may know. Hackish, does the shuttle cylinder tension spring in the picture above look a bit rough or distorted? If so, could it be snagging the needle thread occasionally as it comes around creating an issue or perhaps interfering with the bobbin thread in some way?

Yetibelle, I'm not sure how to do the japanning yet. I've been researching it and experimenting with a recipe for it. If anyone knows for sure how to do it on metal, I would be grateful for your input. GPaudler, What's your thinking with the single circle of marbles, make it more difficult to revolve? Thanks one and all for your comments.

LW member Constabulary found a couple of feet for me. Thank you Constabulary, thank you very much.

That's bare metal ready for black Japanning.

Working on the Singer 45K25 we're restoring has presented some challenges. It's heavy and it's difficult to handle. Turning it around to paint it properly was going to be awkward. Here are pictures of what we decided to use to make it easier. That's a Rubbermaid, Brute, 32 gallon trash can with lid, the bottom is recessed to accept a dolly. Those are children's, glass marbles. The round disc is two pieces of 3/4" x 10-1/4" (for this particular can) plywood screwed together. The rectangle is 3/4" plywood and rests on the disc. The wire in the last picture holds the disc and marbles in place when the stand is not being used. The vertical tube keeps the top from revolving when necessary, there are holes in each corner for the plywood top. The stand is easy to slide with weight on it, because the lid underneath acts as a skid, it's all at a convenient working height. The whole setup in easy to assemble and not too expensive. Actually the bottom few inches of the can (the revolving part) could be cut off if someone wanted to use it on a workbench. The marbles are the heart of it all. We've used them between two dinner plates placed bottom to bottom as a Lazy Susan to paint small items. Lots of possibilities

LW member Uwe found a few parts for me. Thank you Uwe, thank you very much.

Yes, I will bump it from time to time. Thanks for the advise, Trox.