moriver

Brother Excedra industrial machine, sews chap leather, linings, etc. Great for doing purse linings, canvas, repairs to blankets. DC servo motor, table stand, thread rack, owners manual, extra needles Everything works great, ready to go. $500 plus shipping 573-230-6971

If you don't want the loose flesh to be an issue, order a buffed side. Basically the tanner runs it through a buffer and it really smooths the back side and cleans it up. Thats how rough out saddles look so clean and even with the flesh side out. You can also sand the flesh side yourself, just treat it like a piece of wood. I sometimes treat the flesh side with Aussie or something similar to help and lay it down and smooth it out. Good luck

I sell quite few of these every year, especially on big trail rides in the summer. I use sill plate insulation instead of sheepskin. You can get it at any lumber yard, Lowe's etc. It's the perfect size, comes in a big roll and doesn't cost hardly anything. Also it doesnt absorb moisture.

My wife put me on to a plastic (clear) ruler that's 24 inches by 6 inches. You can get them at any fabric store, they are used for laying out/cutting fabric. Works great for leather, you can see through it, easily cut parrallel lines etc, and it will not hurt you knife edge. I now have several in different sizes and shapes, handy as the pocket on a shirt.

Glue works fine, trees that I have used have held up ok. Cheaper, more uniform sometimes since they are molded, I do not use them in high end saddles, but they work good and cut some costs for youth saddles.

I ordered a set of the tools through Siegel and I find myself reaching for them first now, they are as good a quality as any that I've ever used or own. Better quality than the Hidecrafter tools, at least as far as the impression goes, I do like the diameter of the Hidecrafter tools but I've been putting rubber hose on the Hackbarth tools which make them very easy on arthritic fingers.

I make all of my slickers, folders etc, from Iron wood, it is very hard, actually sinks in water it is so heavy, it works nicely on a lathe or sander. I have yet to wear one out, some are 10+ yrs old and get used daily. You can get it from any specialty wood shop, very expensive but you don't need much. I have one peice that is about 4 inches long, I turned it in a lathe and just started making concave cuts of different sizes, some roucded and some squared off at the edges, different depths etc. So far I have not seen anything thaht beats it.

Where is your shop in Wickenberg?

I've been using their products for a while now. Very satisfied, excellent quality, (King Ranch uses them also), I order from Keith by phone (no minimum $$$) and I usually get my stuff in a few days.

to much analyzing here... You use a bucking strap on colts when you first start them, it will save your back and some bones when you need it. The last thing you want is a breakaway, excellent way to really get hurt. 30 years experience in breaking colts and training horses I've learned that people who wear helmets shouldn't have bucking straps because they will get in trouble with it.

Can't beat a wing divider for this one, scribe a line down the center of the leather, set the dividers to the distance between the blevins posts and walk it up the line down the center of the leather. I've done hundreds like this, they always fit

Rigging is also a factor to consider with the different types of saddles and their uses. Roping saddles are double rigged... girth both in the front and a rear girth also, most of the time this is a leather girth in the rear. When ropers dally and come tight (wrap the rope around the horn and get the rope tight on the steer) the saddle will come up in the rear if the steer is in front or to the side and the rear girth holds it in place so it doesn't hurt the horse. The rear girth also helps to distribute the load on the saddle when publling the steer in any direction. Ropers wrap their horns in cut up inner tube bands. This allows the rope to grip the horn instead of slipping and prevents the horn from being torn up. You simply replace rubber when needed, usually you will see some extra rubber hanging somewhere on a ropers saddle, you tend to burn up rubber quickly on fast fresh hard running steers. Trees, bars, gullets, swells and cantles are a wide open subject. There is plenty of info on the internet concerning tree construction, saddle fit and how it is achieved utilizing different gullet widths and bars, suffice it to say the saddle on a working horse has to fit correctly or the horse will suffer and won't work. All horses are not the same and neither are saddles. I'm a roper and rope horse trainer, I keep 5 different roping saddles around because I have to have a saddle that fits each horse I ride or take in to train.

I built my main working bench out of lumber from a barn I tore down. It's massive and heavy. Lot's of 4x4's and 2x6's. The best part however is the top, I found a granite countertop that was a second due to a small miscolored spot. It's 30" by 48". I can tool on it, stain on it, set rivets, etc. It cleans up with a rag, even dried glue comes up with a razor blade box cutter in a snap. I'm looking for another top like it for one of my other benches. My main layout/cutting table is a solid core door with a masonite cover that I got for 38 dollars at a yard sale. I use a 2x2 cutting board that I slide around on top when needed.

Thanks, never thought of a hoppy shop for the material. appreciate the answer

Need a source for the nylon? beveling blade used in the swivel knife, I have an old one that I got from Leather Factory years ago but they no longer carry it to my knowledge.

I had a few questions about sewing in tight corners, different types of needle plates, etc. After reviewing everything on the forum I decided to just call Artisan and hoped to get 2-3 minutes of someones time. Was I surprised, I talked with Steve, I cannot imagine anyone being more helpfull. He had all the answers I needed, he was courteous, and he took all the time needed to help me out. I love the machine, ( had it for a year), and I thank the support is phenominal. Thanks Steve

dampen the edge with a sponge that has some gum trag on it, rub it with the slicker. (I use a water dampened sponge), repeat if necessary

The super skiver works pretty well if you place a dull blade backwards between the good blade and the frame. It caused the blade to set out enough from the tool that it really cuts into the leather well. I've used them this way for several years and I would hate to not have it on the bench. It's great for forming a ground seat in a saddle. I also use a flexible ruler that I bought at staples. You can shape it and it holds the shape. Great for repetative tracing or transferring the shape of something to a pattern. Such as a template for a saddle tree to fit a specific horse. Used stirrup leathers make great strops.

Best deal I ever found, a rejected granite countertop, rejected for a bad color spot in one corner. it's 2 feet by 5 feet, 1 inch thick, made the best worktop I have ever found. I tool on it, set rivets, skive, dye,etc. It cleans up with soap and water, hasn't chipped, gives you a nice hard sharp edge to shape things on... The best part was I traded a day planner for it.

I've been making latigos and half breeds out of it for a while, good stuff, no complaints.

Try lightly setting the stitches with a hammer after sewing. This will make them look better and more even and will also seal the backstitch area so it won't come loose. I put the finish side down on my mable bench top and use a round faced hammer to tap the back of the stitches. You'll figure out how hard to tap real quick.

I've found both suppliers to be very prompt in filling my orders. And I order from each of them several times a month. I deal with the Leatherfactory in Springfield Mo and always get Teresa to handle my orders, I've never had anything but complete satisfaction. Ron at hidecrafters is the same way, he's saved me on a few occasions when I was desparate.

I used neat-lac spray over antique using tan-kote as a resist. Some of the items have cracked or chipped off in spots. I am assuming this is from too heavy a coating of the neat-lac. Is there anyway to fix this ? Can you de-glaze it? Alcohol rub it? etc. then reapply the finish.