Randyc

Mike You did a real nice job on your holsters. The finish looks great. I want to try Angelus dyes myself because I haven't been real happy with the results using Fieblings dyes. I was also wondering how your IWB holsters rode? I've tried to build IWB holsters for short barreled, butt heavy Glocks. Because not enough of the holster is inside the waistband, they start to work themselves out of my waistband. I'm working on a new design. I plan to close off and stitch just below the barrel then, extend the length of the holster so more of it is below the belt. Perhaps I will use a duckbill shape towards the holster bottom to better conform to the hip. Randy

Thanks for the kind words guys. Jordan The Yaqui slide secures the pistol with tension screws and rides outside the belt. A traditional belt slide holster also rides outside the belt. My design rides inside the belt with retention controlled by belt tension. I'm sure I'm not the first one to come up with that design. After building the holster, I discovered that my Makarov and Glock 23 also fit in this holster. Randy

Jeff As usual you have outdone yourself again. Great work! BTW, I've made a couple of holsters from shark skin. I've really had trouble laying out my stitch lines because of all the bumps. How did you do it? Randy

Last Thursday night I picked up a new KAHR PM45 pistol. I wanted to start carrying this pistol both on/off duty ASAP. My department only holds mandatory firearms qualifications twice a year and requires holstered weapons for the qualification stages. Friday afternoon was range qualifications and I needed to build a holster quickly. I designed and built this holster in just over an hour not including drying time for the dye. The holster itself is a beltslide that rides between my belt and trousers. I made the holster from 2 pieces of 6/7Oz. veg.tan with calf skin lining. The holster is real small and when I remove the weapon, it's hard to tell I'm wearing a holster at all. Next, I'm building a pocket holster for the Kahr. Randy

Mike I cut and pasted the list off my own prior post on this forum. I did eliminate one step on this re-posting. I eliminated tracing around the pistol twice, that is on (both sides of the crease line.) I only trace around the pistol on one side of the crease line. After I cut the pattern out, both sides of the pattern are exactly the same size. I was taught the same method for laying out boot tops when I attended western boot school. If I ever get the time, I plan to post this pattern method, step by step with photos. I'm sure there are other methods to lay out a pattern. I know Jordan uses graph paper. I would like to see the methods used by other guys on this forum. Alright Mike, now you have it. Now get busy and build more holsters! Randy

Warren, Your son should be right proud to carry his box knife in such a fine looking sheath. Good job! Randy

Hi and welcome to the forum. To my knowledge there are really no pattern packs available for modern pistols. Most if not all the great looking holsters you see on this site were designed by the guy who made the holster. Take the time to read the prior posts and you will learn alot about making holsters. Al Stolhmans book on holster making available at Tandy/Leather Factory will give you some ideas for western type holsters as well as making patterns. Below is a review of a prior post describing how I make my holster patterns. I use regular file folders available in any office supply store. I picked up a box of 100 today for under 7 dollors. Any way, I stand the weapon up with the front site on the center crease of the file folder and the rear site centered on the center crease. I carefully lay the weapon on it's side and trace around the weapon onto the folder. I now draw out my holster style over the tracing I just made and allowing additions for leather thickness and stitch lines. I then cut my pattern out, following my trace lines but cutting out side of the trace lines making the pattern a little larger then needed. You can always trim your leather down, but once you have removed too much, it's gone. The next part is more trial and error. You need to lay out your pattern onto your leather. I use a silver pen for this part. I always trace a little outside of the pattern to be sure I have enough leather for the holster. Hope this helped. It's easier to do then to explain. Best Wishes Randy

Sideguard Can you please share your source for quality aluminum holster molds? Thanks, Randy

Welcome to the forum. Nice holster too! Randy

Art In my opinion, next to molding around the actual pistol,Rings Blueguns are the way to go. They are the closest in size to the actual pistol and when using a holster press as I do, you don't have to worry about crushing a polymar plastic (Glock) type pistol. It pays to shop around on the internet. I've seen the Blueguns prices range from $32.75-$50.00. I've built several holsters for my co-workers on the PD. It's been good practice on a variety of pistols. I've only charged these guys $40.00 for their holsters. That covered the cost of the Blueguns and leather. AT $40.00 of course my labor if free. I now have 7 Blueguns for future holsters and sales. Randy

Don Very nice looking sheath. Randy

Now thats funny, I don't care who ya are! Randy

Thanks for the info guys! Randy

If you look directly at the edge of leather, chrome tanned leather will have a grayish layer which is real easy to see. Vegatable tanned leather will not have that coloring on the edges. Hope this helps. Randy

Phil Welcome to the forum. You won't meet a nicer group of people willing to share their talents then you will on this forum. Best Wishes! Randy

Mliebs, I sent you a PM Thanks, Randy

I have not seen the DVD or read the book and would like to. Your idea of passing materials along to other members is pretty darn nice. Randy

Mike, My first sewing machine was a 6000 series Viking. I still have the machine.This is a pretty robust little machine. I've used mine for practice stitching 2-3 oz leather on my western boot tops until I purchased a Singer 31-15 and a Artisan Toro 3000 for my medium to heavy stitching. Ive also used my Viking to stitch lining onto a 4-5oz. wallet back. I've used up to a size 18 leather needle and size 69 thread. Anything heavier is really putting alot of stress on this type of machine. These are home machines designed for home type sewing. I took a sewing machine tech. class last year and can adjust and repair my own machines. (Saves Money!) Most of your modern day sewing machine repair shops do not encourage folks to have these older machines repaired. The shops prefer to sell you a new machine. Viking parts are also pretty expensive. IMO stitching holsters with 6-7 Oz. vegetable tan or heavier is placing way to much stress on these types of machines. Keep your machine cleaned and lubed and you may be able to pass the machine down to another famly mamber. Randy

Hey Guys, I'd like to obtain non-functioning pistols from firearms manufactures if possible. I have several blue guns, but perfer to mold around the actual pistol when ever possible. I know that some manufactors offer non-functioning pistols for holster makers. Does anyone know which manufactors will sell these pistols to holster makers? Thanks Randy

Ken, You too have been missed on this forum. I hope things are going better for you. Hurry back! Randy

I was introduced to Artisan machines a couple of years ago at the Boot and Saddle Makers Roundup in Wichita Falls Tx. I met Dave and Steve at the show. Being a trade show, you expect the venders to be friendly and helpful. After all, their trying to sell their products. Whats sets Artisan apart from other companies is their friendly, helpful support after the sale. These guys and their equiptment are top notch. Randy

Welcome to the forum! Randy

Tim Welcome to the forum. Your making some cool looking wallets. Randy

Peter Welcome aboard. Sharp looking quiver! Randy

Real nice looking belt and sheath. Randy