Randyc

Bree Great Idea. Thanks for posting. Randy

Hi Allen. As a leatherworker you have found a place to call home. Randy

Thanks Guys I will see what I can do about reducing the size of those images. I'm still learning this web site design thing. Randy

Great job Rhome, that is some outstanding work. Randy

DickF I stitch my holsters with an Artisan Toro 3000 and 277 weight thread. Guys, Thanks for all the kind words.

Tom Nice job on the holster. You should be proud! Randy

I've had a domain for a year and finally setmy mind to putting it together last weekend. Let me know what you guys think. As always critiques are welcome. Randy www.bulldogleathercompany.com

Thanks Bruce, In 2006 I spent a couple of weeks learning boot making from Carl Chappell in Saint Jo Tx. I made that pair and never got around to making a second pair. I started looking through my supplies and materials last weekend and may start my 2nd pair before the end of the year. Building boots, saddles, and holsters are sort of similer. If the angles are not right, the finished product will not be right.

This photo was taken while I was on my way to the Boot and Saddle Maker Round Up in Wichita Falls Texas last year. It's not my leather working forte, but I did build the pair of boots I'm wearing.

I built this J-Frame holster for a customer in Oregon. I used 6/7 oz. Hermann Oak leather, rough side out and finished with Fieblings Tan-Kote. I only wet form my pocket holsters on one side unless the customer requests wet forming on both sides of the holster. My customer took these photos and was nice enough to post a review of my holster with photos on several firearms related forums. Randy

Tac That's one fine looking holster. When I started in law enforcement 32 years ago the standard carry holster was the Don Hume Jordan River Holster. The holster was very fast, but had a fully exposed trigger guard. I referred to that holster as "the widow maker." Holster design has really come along way. Randy

www.artisansew.com Toll Free: (888) 838-1408 - Toll Free Fax: (866) 838-1508 Give Jerry at Artisan a call. He should be able to fix you up with a servo motor setup. Randy

The feet Bree refers to on ebay will fit your machine and a servo motor would be a wise choice. I wasn't sure if you already had a machine or were planning to purchase another one. As far as applications, you may also want to give Jerry a call at Artisan, he will point you in the right direction. Toll Free: (888) 838-1408 - Toll Free Fax: (866) 838-1508 Randy

A walking foot machine would work fine for you. I have a 1970's vintage 6000 series Viking portable sewing machine. I put a clear plastic foot on the machine so that I could see my pattern lines when I stitched. The older vintage home machines can work out pretty well for us leather guys. On smaller projects, I used a silver ink pen to draw my pattern out rather then laying out my pattern with powder. Ian's method of traceing out your pattern with a stylus would also work out well. Another added benefit of the Viking machines is a mechanical drop down reducer gear that gives the machine a little more punch and allows you to stitch very slowly. I picked mine up for around $150.00 a few years ago. Randy

I studied western boot making under Carl Chappell. I use manila file folders and a pencil to lay out my top stitch pattern. Since boot patterns are the same on each side of the front of the boot top, leave the file folder closed. Once you have the pattern drawn out, remove the thread from your needle, lengthen your stitch and stitch all your pattern lines with needle only, (no thread). Once you open the file folder, you will have mirror images of your stitch pattern on both halves of the file folder. Make a powder bag by pouring baby powder in an old sock. Lay your paper pattern on top of the leather that you want to stitch and lightly rub your powder bag across your perforated stitch pattern. Remove the paper pattern and your powder stitch lines will be visible on your leather. The trick is to follow your powder lines without totally rubbing them off. A silver ink pen comes in handy for restoring the powder lines that accidently get erased. I use a Singer 31-15 with a roller foot to do my topstitching. Any other type of foot makes it difficult to follow the powder stitch lines without erasing them. I think the key to stitching intricate patterns is being able to control the speed of your machine. When I stitch boot tops I guide the material with my left hand while I keep my right hand on top of the wheel to slip the clutch and control the speed. I suggest you start out practice stitching with very simple patterns then move onto the more intricate patterns as you improve. I hope my technique makes sense. Randy

Thanks Art. I knew you would come through for us Randy

Sorry, no experience with the Consew. I use an Artisan Toro 3000 for stitching holsters, sheaths, and some tack repair. I did do some checking on the web. 11/32" is the maximum clearence under the foot. In my opinion, the 227 may not be your best choice for stitching vegatable tanned holster leather. My Toro 3000 will stitch a full 3/4" under the foot. Maybe our ever helpful moderator Art, will offer his well educated opinion and advise. Randy

Hey Bruce They sure don't build them like that anymore. I spent a couple weeks on a 31-15 at boot school and learned to control the speed by slipping the clutch with my hand while I stitch. It's also easy to work on and there are a zillion spare parts available. I also put a roller foot on mine and may break down one day and fit it with a servo motor. My 31-15 has worked fine with just general maintainance. Good luck with your machine Randy

Three years ago I picked up a 31-15 in good shape with table for $150.00 off ebay. In 2006 I learned to build western boots under master boot maker Carl Chappell and really learned alot about using this class of machine. Mine has the regular clutch motor so I learned to control the speed down to a stitch at a time by laying my hand on top of the fly wheel and slipping the clutch. The 3100 series is still very popular among boot makers for doing all that ornate stitching of boot tops. I also used my 31-15 for decorative stitching of belts, cellphone cases and other smaller lightweight projects. Parts are easy to find and the machine is easy to maintain. My 31-15 was manufactored around 1918 and it's kinda cool stitching with a piece of history. Randy

Thanks guys, Once I got the stuff cut, it did mold quite nicely. I'm using Hermann Oaks for my holsters. I just finished up on a 8/9 oz. tunnel and loop holster and it molded as well as I can mold that thickness of leather. I just shipped off one of my pocket holsters to a customer in Oregon. I used the 6/7 oz. hide for that one. The molding looked real good. I'm currently working on a tunnel and loop sheath for a Buck folding hunter knife and a tunnel and loop holster for a customers airweight Smith & Wesson J Frame. Randy

I actually like using a round knife and had no problems what so ever slicing through my previous 8/9oz. sides. I ran into problems cutting my new Hermann Oaks 8/9oz. side with my round knife. "That stuffs tough." I was able to to cut the Hermann Oaks with my old and close to worn out Fiskers Shears. Before learning to use a round knife, I've used and continue to use shears, utility knifes, and even my "Case" Stockman pocket knife to cut leather with good results. I still use a variety of tools depending on the project. I find that cutting a tight corner accurately is easier with a round knife, shears or round punches then with a utility knife. Randy

Hey guys, thanks for your comments. I went ahead and purchased a side of 6/7 oz. and 8/9 oz Hermann Oaks leather. One thing I discovered, Hermann Oaks is alot harder to cut then the leather I had been using from Weaver. I made another belt holster using the 8/9 oz. I'm fairly happy with the molding considering the weight of the leather. I'm sure the 6/7 oz. will mold a little easier. I'm still working on my casing technique with the new leather. I got a few recommendations for new shears on the leather tools section of the forum. Do any of you holster makers have any recommendations for shears? Thanks again, Randy

I'm going to go ahead and order another set of pads from McMaster Carr. Thanks for the advise! Randy

Hey Guys, I'm planning to purchase a new pair of good leather cutting shears for 6-9 oz. leather. A left handed pair would be a bonus. Any recommendations? Thanks Randy

Is there anyway to clean my McMaster-Carr gum rubber holster press pads. I've thought about using alcohol, but I believe alcohol would dry out the gum rubber. I have some black dye stains on the pads that have transfered to my non black holster projects. Thanks Randy