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Randyc

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Everything posted by Randyc

  1. I've received a 6/7oz and 8/9oz sides of Hermann Oaks leather from Weaver Leather Supply. I cut a pattern from the 8/9oz side. This is probably the toughest leather I have ever cut. I cut the pattern from the back section. Should I have possibly cut from the middle section or sholder, and saved the back for cutting straps? Has anyone else found Hermann Oaks Leather to be this tough to cut? I hope I won't have to drive my car over it to get it to mold properly Randy
  2. Rhome, Welcome back to the states. Now get busy and build some more cool holsters! Randy
  3. Elton You have a nice shop there! I really enjoy seeing photos of everyones shops. I also enjoy seeing how some craftsman with very little extra room, build themselves nice compact work areas. Randy
  4. These are the pens I use for marking leather. They use silver ink and are made by Fisher Space Pen Co. spacepen.com Randy Silver Colored Ink Space Pen Price: $4.00
  5. Jeff As always, your kicking out some fantastic gun leather. Your customer should be real happy and you should be proud! Randy
  6. You designed and built a nice clean holster. To form my belt tunnels I stitched 2 8oz straps together. I form my tunnel around the straps. Randy
  7. John Your fore and aft hooks should help keep the holster in the pocket when drawing the pistol. IMO, tan kote won't hinder pocket retention. It does put a nice semi-gloss and water resistant finish on my pocket holsters. I'm not stealing your thread but below you can see one of my holsters with the tan kote. Good Luck Randy
  8. I believe Weaver does carry Herman Oak, but I'm pretty sure for the price I paid, it wasn't Herman Oak.
  9. I've just about used up my current supply of leather purchased from Weaver. I've been using 6/7 oz. for my pocket holsters and belt slide holsters for lighter weight pistols. I've been using 8/9 oz. for my tunnel/loop belt holsters and plan to design a IWB holster next. I planning to purchase Wicket and Craig or Herman Oak sides or sholders. Of these two brands, which is easer to mold and bone with the best results? What grade of leather should I purchase? I don't mind purchasing "Grade A" if that grade will be necessary to achieve the desired effects. Thanks Guys, Randy
  10. John Solid pocket holster design. I can't tell from your photos if you applied any finish to your leather. If not, I use Fieblings Tan Kote to protect the leather. It will help the leather fibers on the rough side to lay down a bit and provide a nice water resistant finish. Again, I can't see your edges. I sand my edges down, wet the edges, then burnish the edge by briskly rubbing the edges with a piece of scrap denim. That should give you a smooth, shiny edge. Good luck and post some more of your holsters as you progress. Randy
  11. Unique design to say the least. I've never attempted to build a holster around a pistol with an attached light. I'm sure the attached light presented some design problems. It may not be practical but could you have squared off the bottom of the holster and still have a design that worked? Randy
  12. Dan I really like the color and retro look of your holster. Besides retention, I think your hammer thong adds to the look of the holster. Randy
  13. Rayban Thats a good looking holster. I wished my first holster looked that good. As a matter of fact, I wish my last holster looked that good. Post photos of your belt when you finish it. I used to own a couple of Ruger single actions myself. I wish I still had one so that I could build a western rig for it. Randy
  14. Hey Rusty Glad you followed me over here. Welcome to our little corner of the holster making world. From what I can see, you have a functional group of holsters posted. You may want to consider rounding off your designs. Your striped holster is rather unique. As I was taught in western boot making school, "if you make a mistake, just make it look like you planned it that way."As you build more holsters, make sure you post photos of your progress. If you have any questions, someone here will happily answer them for you. Randy
  15. Marlon Sounds like you had a great time. I went to the show in 2005 and 2006 because of my interest in western boots. I had the pleasure of meeting and hanging out with some of todays finest bootmakers. I purchased several of my boot making tools at that show. I spent 2 weeks in St.Jo Tx. in 2006 learning boot making from boot maker Carl Chappell. I really wanted to make it to the show this year, but it wasn't in the cards. Glad you were able to share your photos with us. Randy
  16. Ray, I've built several open top cell phone cases for different size cell phones. I use the same "T" shaped pattern for all the cases.
  17. Thanks Guys, I do appreciate the critiques of my holsters. I’m especially great full for the hints and ideas posted by some of you more veteran holster makers. I’ve done pretty well with the sales and buyer feedback of my pocket holsters and have sold a few belt holsters as well. One day, I will be too old to be a lawman and hope to build holsters full-time. I believe anything worth doing is worth doing well. Little by little my holsters have improved and much of what I’ve learned about leatherwork in general and holster making in particular, I learned from you guys on this forum. Randy
  18. Jeff Thanks for your detailed critique of my latest holsters. I use a manila file folder to draw out my patterns. I drew out my design for the Glock 34 holster on graph paper and used a compass to draw out the rear of the holster. I then transferred the pattern onto a manila folder. Outside of my pocket holsters, that is the first belt holster that I have been satisfied with. I have not done much in the way of hand boning and have relied on my press for forming. I like your idea of using the belly to make actual patterns. I will have to try that method. I use a head knife to cut out my patterns. For my belt slits, I use a small-rounded wood workers carving chisel for my initial top and bottom cuts. I then use a utility razor knife to cut the slits. I've been using leather from Weaver and planning to upgrade to Hermann Oak or Wicket & Craig leather. Randy
  19. I've been working on my designs for tunnel/loop Avenger style holsters. The first holster I made is for my Makarov pistol. I covered the throat band with caiman alligator. This one actually began life as a holster for my Glock 23. I stitched too close to the form and the Glock wouldn't fit. Instead of the scrap bin, I was able to make this one work for my Makarov. I added a Texas Star Concho for grins. The second holster is one that actually fit my Glock 23. I finished the holster in Fieblings dark brown. My white thread took on a nice gold tint. This is my daily LEO duty holster. As you guys can probably figure out, I don't wear a regular duty rig at work. The third holster, I made for my Glock 34 competition pistol. I plan to switch between my model 23 and 34 for on duty wear. I finished the edges with Fieblings dark brown to provide a little contrast to the basic black holster. I know I may be critiqued on the width of my belt loops. I were western style belts with those thick metel belt tips. My belt tips won't fit through standard width loops.
  20. I use 277 top and bottom. Randy
  21. Bree Nice machine, it will stitch anything short of the kitchen sink. I have the 3000 myself. You can't beat Jerry and Steve when it comes to after sales service and advise. You will have to let us know how it works out for you.
  22. Nice looking sheath. I'm sure your customer will be happy.
  23. Ok, which one of you knuckle heads snapped a picture of me after starting this thread?
  24. After reading this thread, Jerry from Artisan Sewing gave me a call. He explained that the presser feet on on their machines are designed to be user modified to fit different needs. He explained that the groover on my inner presser foot was designed for sewing long runs ie. reins and belts and removing the creaser was an option for me. Talk about customer service. Artisan sure can't be beat. Randy
  25. Ok, the deed is done. I removed the skeg from the inside presser foot and it polished up quite well. I did tighten up the thread tension a bit. So far so good. Thanks Guys for shareing your knowledge!!! Randy
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