Randyc

John D Nice holster work. Send more photos of your work. Semper Fi Randy

Bullrider These are the steps I use to build a holster. I myself use an arbor press for my initial forming of the holster, then I use my hands and sometimes molding tools to complete the job. You do not really need the press. All of your molding/boning can be done by hand. Different holster makers use different steps in the building process. Some stitch the holster prior to molding and some stitch after molding. For pocket and IWB Holsters I use 6-7 Oz. vegatable tanned leather. For belt holsters, I use 8-9 oz. vegatable tanned leather. Best advise I can give you is to study the postings on this forum. Theres some real good holster makers hanging out here with a wealth of knowledge. 1.After patterning, cutting, evening, edgeing,and dyeing, I glue the holster together with (Barges Cement) 2. I layout my stitch lines with a groover. 3. I stitch the holster. 4. I soak the holster for 15-30 seconds in hot tap water with a couple of drops of "Dawn" dish soap. 5. I let the holster dry to the point of the leathers natural color returning and the leather feeling cool to the touch. 6. I wipe the pistol down with a lightly oiled rag. 7. I place the pistol (naked without seran wrap) into the holster. 8. I mold the holster to my satisfaction. 9. I remove the pistol from the holster as soon as I'm finished molding. 10. I allow the holster to dry. 11. I finish and burnish the edges 12. I photograph the holster. 13. I post the photo on this forum for you guys to critique, praise, laugh at or write whatever you guys think of my holsters. Good Luck! Randy

Jordan So far looks real good. You certainly put alot of thought in your designs. The basket weave stamping looks real good too as does your makers stamp. Randy

Outstanding job Marine!!! Semper Fi Randy

That's a real nice looking holster. What weight leather did you use? Randy

Jordan, Nice job! Randy

Regis I would either dye the back of your western holster brown or use Fieblings TanKote which will darken the natural color a bit, but leave a protective coating. I like your holster designs. BTW, I ordered 5 Blueguns from the Shooters Box 2 weeks ago. They haven't been delivered yet. Should I be concerned or am I being my normal impatient self? Randy

Rusty Welcome to the forum. You do some nice work. I'm directly north of Chicago, just south of the chedder curtin. Post some more of your work. The guys and gals on this forum thrive on photos. Randy

Jordan Aside from your stitching mishap, your holster looks pretty good to me. In boot school, Carl Chappell gave me the following advise. "If ya screw up, make it looked like you planned it that way". I've ended up dyeing quite a few projects black because of my stitching screwups. Good luck on your P89 Holster. Randy

Hilly I use what ever vegatable tan I have on hand for my design and prototype work. I save my good hide for the stuff I hope to sell. I don't know the type of holster you built, but if you built a formed concealed carry holster for a handgun, the experts don't recommend using neatsfoot oil on gunlather. This treatment will soften the leather and lesson the weapon retention abilities of your holster. I too like the natural look of my concealed carry holsters. I use Fieblings tankote for my protective finish. It only darkens the leather a little. Several of my "natural finished" holsters are posted over on the holsters/belts section of this forum. Best Wishes Randy

Drac Ask and you shall receive. 18633K63 NATURAL GUM RUBBER SHEET, 1" THICK, 12" X 12", 40A DUROMETER, TAN 2 EA2034.26 EA68.52 Randy

Skip Check out the resource page on this site. Theres a link with alot of good info, patterns ect. for western gear including covering the lever on a lever action rifle. Randy

Thanks Tina! Theres alot of good stuff on that site. Randy

Your holster are sure looking good to me. Right now I'm building another IWB holster for a Makarov. This one I might have run my stitch line a little to close to the trigger guard. The pistol fits a little too tight. It may end up in the mistake box. I look foward to hearing your feedback on the drum died leather you bought. Are you molding by hand or using a press? Randy

Kayak Using a spirit based dye, I've not had any problems with the dye running off after I wet the leather. Some holster makers dye after stitching and molding. Some mold before stitching then dye. It's all in how you want to do it. I just find it easier to obtain an even dye job on a flat piece of leather. You will develop you own style as you go along. Now get busy and build more holsters. Randy

Jordan That one should be another "Jordan's Holsters" winner. Post some photos when you've finished it. Randy

Randy Nice job on the purse. You may have found yourself a new nich market with your holster purse. Randy

Kayak, Great job on your pocket holster. Real nice stitch job too. Whether you stitch the bottom or leave it open is just a builder preference. Pocket crud will enter a holster from both the top and bottom of the holster. I have big hands and fingers. I sometimes find it tough to clean out the bottom of the holster if I stitched it closed. I use tankote to treat the outside of the holsters that I plan to leave a natural color. I have dyed holsters rough side out. It's easier for me to get an even coat if I dip the leather into dye rather then trying to brush the dye on. Tankote will slicken up your holster a bit, but your front and back hooks will help keep your holster in your pocket. As far as light molding, it ok to wrap your weapon in seran wrap. Once I finish my molding, I remove the pistol from the holster while the leather is still damp. The leather will shrink a bit while drying, but you will still have a good fit. I don't use seran wrap myself. My construction steps are as follows. 1.After patterning, cutting, evening, edgeing,and dyeing, I glue the holster together with (Barges Cement) 2. I layout my stitch lines with a groover. 3. I stitch the holster. 4. I soak the holster for 15-30 seconds in hot tap water with a couple of drops of "Dawn" dish soap. 5. I let the holster dry to the point of the leathers natural color returning and the leather feeling cool to the touch. 6. I wipe the pistol down with a lightly oiled rag. 7. I place the pistol (naked without seran wrap) into the holster. 8. I mold the holster to my satisfaction. 9. I remove the pistol from the holster as soon as I'm finished molding. 10. I allow the holster to dry. 11. I finish and burnish the edges 12. I photograph the holster. 13. I post the photo on this forum for you guys to critique, praise, laugh at or write whatever you guys think of my holsters. Randy

Regis, I'm guessing your chap leather is possibly chrome tanned insted of vegatable tanned. If the leather is chrome tanned, I would not use it to build any holsters. The salts used in the chrome tanning process will damage a handguns finish and will not mold properly. Just my 2 cents worth. Randy

Kagekeeper, First off welcome to the forum! In my humble opinion, designing and building a paddle holster is a pretty lofty undertaking for a first holster project. I guess the most difficult part would designing a paddle that would be both secure and comfortable. You could possibly obtain some kydex, then cover the kydex with leather. Another option may be to use spring steel covered with leather. Before I started building my own holsters and now building holsters for others, I've used a couple different paddle holsters made by different large commercial holster manufactors. I did not feel comfortably safe with either holster without wearing a a good stout belt. I don't believe going beltless will provide the comfort and and retention needed while carrying a full size weapon. Now my suggestions, build a simipler design holster ie. Belt Slide, Inside Waist Band. Either of these 2 designs can be designed and built with clips or snap retention loops. Of course you would need to wear a belt with either design. Another option would be to get yourself a smaller weapon ie. airweight .38 subnose, Kahr or Keltek , Beretta Tomcat ect. and build yourself a pocket holster. This way you could be armed and not worry about wearing a belt to support a holster. You can build your holster with minimal tools/supplies Sharp Knife Harness Needles 207/277/or 346 Thread Stitch Groover Stitch Marker Edge Bevelar Awl or drill press to make your holes 6/7, 7/8 or 8/9 oz. leather to make the holster. (Your Preference) Stolhman Book on making leather holsters available at Tandy I'm sure your friend Frog can help you out with some design ideas and leather work basics. Study the postings on this forum and check out the holster/belt section of pistolsmith.com Good luck and happy holster building. Randy

Ramjet First welcome to the forum. In addition to Al Stolhman's book, take some time to read through the postings on this forum. There is a wealth of information. You may also want to check out pistolsmith.com, they also have a holster and belt forum with around 39 pages of information about holsters. Randy

Jordan I leave the holster bottoms open. It makes them easier to clean out. Warren, That idea occured to me after I already stitched the holster. Most of my brillant ideas appear after I already screwed up the project :D Thanks Guys! Randy

Your holsters are looking good. Like anything else, the more you do, the better you will get. So get busy and build more holsters! :D

Kayak Your holsters look pretty good to me. You may want to leave the holster bottoms as least parcially unstitched and open so that water and assorted crud doesn't build up on the bottom of your holster. Randy

Guys, Thanks for your comments. Randy