CWR

Cowboy, It's really pretty easy, especially on oxbows because they are the same size all the way up and down. Take the center rollers out. You are going to need three peices of leather per stirrup. One for each side and one for the tread. The tread should be heavier than the sides. Measure around your stirrup, cut your width a little wider than the actual measurement. Measure The length from just shy of the center of the stirrup(on the inside) to the top then add enough to fold over the top and go down the out side past the bolt hole. The part that folds over only need to be the width of the stirrup. It will look like an inverted upside down T. Skive the top and bottom to a feather edge Mark a center line down the outside of the stirrrup on both sides,punch your holes for the roller bolt and put both sides on the inside and replace the roller. Get it centered and trim where each edge touches you center mark. It helps to cement the inside while you trim. After you have it trimmed punch your holes to lace them leave it on the stirrup to punch. Lace up both sides then put your treads on. Good luck, CW

Steve, I recognize those swells. The finished product sure turned out nice. Bob, I bet you could talk Steve into building you one just like it with a 3 1/2 inch horn. CW

Cody, The pattern for saddle 1 in the encyclopedias should work. You may have to expand it some. I am working on a full association right now. I used that pattern and added an inch to both sides. I pulled the first cover because I wasn't satisfied but the pattern worked fine. Good luck, CW

Ashley, You got that right. This is the first one I have tried to cover. It's just a rebuild of an old saddle I swapped for to ride colts in. Thought it would be good practice befor I started from scratch. If it turns out alright I want to sell it and turn it into more tools and leather. Sorry I missed your post before. CW

Steve, Thanks for posting the pics. I have another side of leather ordered and when it gets in I'm going to get started again. I always like studying the pictures you post of your saddles. They are the kind I want to build someday. Thanks, CW

The Weaver catalog lists both CSO round knives as using 1075. Hope that helps. CW

Keith, Thanks for the tips that is exactly the kind of information I was looking for. I needed some guidance from some of you who have worked out the ways to make these things easier. I really admire your work. Sorry it took me so long to reply, been away from the computer for awhile. Much obliged, CW

Bob, I have The Stohlman series and I agree with you they are an invaluable resource. I was just hoping some of you might have some tricks you had learned through experience that might go with what was in the book. The problem I'm having is the shoulders on the swell drop off quite a bit and I'm having trouble getting the cover down to the point of the swell to punch the hole and fitting the welt jig. I guess I just need to wrestle with it some more. East NM, Id odn't have the Adams book but glad to hear it is good. I'll add it when I can. Thanks, CW

Can any of you give me any tips or tricks on get nice smooth welts down low on the swells? I'm covering a full association with 14 inch swells. I got it covered but my welts were too high and not as straight as I wanted so I pulled it off. I think my main problem is not getting it fitted right to start with. Any help would be appreciated. I'm using folded welts by the way. We may run out of cows if I have to figure this out on my own. Thanks, CW

Big Bend is still carrying it. Bruce you ever get out to Alpine? If you ever do I'll buy you a cup of coffee or something stronger. Sure would like to visit. CW

Yeah Hilly. They wanted tax id . I figured if it was good enough for the IRS it ought to satisfy Weavers. CW

Thanks for the input guys. I'm slowly getting it put together. Wish I could come spend a few days with yall. Thanks again. CW

I just put in my social security number and they sent me a catalog. CW

Thanks JW. Makes sense to use the ring shanks where you won't have to take them out for future repairs. Appreciate the input. CW

I've seen on different threads where some of you use ring shank nails and some don't like them at all. In Stohlman's books he uses blue tacks and I've read where some of you haven't used them in years. I would like to hear some discussion on what you use and why. Thanks, CW

I've got a big knot on my tail bone from a straight up cantle. I had roped a bull and the horse I was riding took objection. The rope was over my leg and I thought that cantle was going to beat me to death before I could get off. I don't know if a cheyenne roll would have helped but it might of spread the concussion around a little. That was one of the only times I can remember wanting to get bucked off. CW

JW, I'd sure like to see that myself. Thanks, CW

Rob, I have done some that were just one strand with some buttons on them. I used 4 stringsof rawhide, start in the middle and after your 4 part strand is long enough for a loop double it and do an 8string round braid the rest of the length. Add whatever buttons suit you. I did some three strand ones also. Look one Nate Wald's website that where I got the idea. Merry Christmas, CW

Bevan, If your making one for the cook you better get it right! The thickest part of the hide is going to be along the topline or the butt area. This is assuming you buy a side or whole hide and cut your own string. I have never used roo but yes you braid it over your core. Keep me posted on how it goes. CW

Bevan, I plait my cores for bosals that I want the diameter to be 5/8 of an inch or larger. I use 1/4 inch from the thickest part of the hide and just do a 4string round braid. For a smaller diameter sometimes I will use a twisted core. Good luck, CW

I told my wife I wanted the Sheridan book by Bob Likewise and anything on Barry King's website would suit me just fine. But if I don't get any of it it will be alright. Our little boy will be 16 months old and it will be a great time with him. He was born three months premature and only weighed 2.5 lbs. He's doing great now though. Merry Christmas everyone, CW

Mike, Glad your feeling better. I had a hide I get from Bill Confers that was like that. It didn't cause any problems though. You could see it a little after it was braided up if you were looking for it. As far as the splitting goes, just take the little bites until you get to the thinnest part of your hide. You won't cut your string in two and it won't stretch it as bad if its a little too damp. This can cause some weak spots. It may seem like your wasting time but sometimes you have to slow down to be quick. Saves lots of cussing too. Good luck, CW

Thanks Art. Thats probably what I'll do. CW

Mike, If I were you I would go ahead and finish it. Since its your first one you will probably have issues with other parts as well. You will get a bosal under your belt and work some things out in your mind by finishing it. You will at least have one to use while you make another one. Theres plenty of cows out there so we won't run out of rawhide in our lifetimes. Yours looks alot better than my first one. I still have it to keep me humble. Keep us posted. CW

I'm in the process of replacing the swell cover, jockeys and cantle back on a sadddle and need some help trying to get the new leather to at least come close to being the color of the rest of the saddle. I know just neatsfoot won't do it. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, CW