TwinOaks

One I got all the stray leaf scraped off (I vinegarooned it so it didn't show) I think I used Resolene. I can't comment on how it wears, 'cause it's still sitting in my work box. The guy who "commisioned" it wanted it for a 'sword wrap' for his katana. So, [everybody groan with the familiarity of this] I get the material, learn to write what he wants in Japanese Kanji and Katakana, make the pieces.......and store them until the next time I run into him....again.

to leatherworker.net! You've got a good handle on how that holster thing is done, that's for sure. The thing that jumps out the most to me is that you did a superb job on dyeing the leather on all three holsters. On the first two holsters, your belt loops are at some really strange angles. I can't help but wonder if the extreme angles cause the belt to twist or bind under the holster. Very good job on the IWB holster. We really can't see from the pics, but when you stitch in the reinforcing piece on the mouth, make sure you leave a stitch groove on the inside of the holster as well as the outside. This will help protect the thread from abrasion when drawing or holstering.

Seems kinda like cheating....not having to use the mallet to stamp the leather down, and all. Interesting idea, and I can see where it could be used in a limited way, utilizing the different texture for emphasis. I just have to wonder if that much removal of leather would negatively affect it in anyway.

Since we're off into the realm of the fantastical.... Maybe it's what Old Toodles kept his marbles in.....reach for it....really old story.... Or what somebody kept marbles in.

Ahhhhhh someone else who speaks "technical details" I spent a fair amount of time researching steel to work at forging a field knife. I settled on 5160 because it's most readily available and pretty forgiving for the backyard smith. I absolutely agree with you on D2, it's great for a big-ish blade that will see lots of abuse between sharpenings. For fine work, you're more likely to end up with a dendritic edge after just a few curves. I'm thinking of trying a round knife now . For reference, don't bother with cross cut saw blades (circle saw) as they're commonly made from L6 steel, which hardens and tempers well, but will rust while you watch it.

A major consideration for this is the weight of the leather. Have you tried semi forming before laying out the stitchline?

I used the stuff from Hobby Lobby. It's prepackaged and includes a pen style adhesive, and a few sheets of leaf. I used it on inverse carved Kanji lettering, and had no problems until I tried to pack it down to make it cleaner looking. My advice is carve and lift all the edges so that you don't have to touch it after the gold leaf is applied. The gold leaf, as you know is EXTREMELY fragile, and will lift off easily. Use a soft bristled paintbrush to compress it where needed. As soon as possible, get a finish over the gold to prevent it from lifting off.

Could you be a little more specific? Harmonica sling as in rifle sling? Or harmonica sheath? I don't understand what you're after.

Good idea, Bob. Hopefully there's enough room for that. I've been playing with the idea of pulling a loop through the slot instead of weaving through them...maybe this would be a good place to try that? Other than that....run a stamp between the loops and make it more decorative. That should allow you to hide the bounce pretty well.

Sage words of wisdom there!!!! That little bit of planning is the difference between cutting out the pattern and cutting out leather to add to the pattern.

Sure, I can offer some advice. Make the thumb break strap about as wide as the rear of the slide, and reinforce the leather that will have the second half of the snap. If you're asking if it's safe, then yes, presuming you're talking about a 1911 when you say "a .45"....that is of course provided the pistol is in proper working order, and doesn't have any safeties disabled, and the owner has intentions to carry it in condition 1 (cocked and locked). If you're referring to one of the many models of single action revolvers that fire .45 LC, then that's another question. Other than that, what specifically do you need advice on?

It would really depend on the width of the area being thumbprinted. A thumbprint is really just a very flat pear shader (IMO), so as long as you stay between the lines, it shouldn't effect anything. If your undercuts are effected, check the size thumbprinter for the area used, and check the moisture of your leather.

I think the edge kote does have something else in it, but I'd lean more towards a laquer. For some things, like really stringy leather, I like it. I use it as base coat, then go back and slick the edge by hand.

Say, isn't that Barbara Eden's old house? I don't have a clue as to what it was/is, but I'm pretty sure that it wasn't rifle/pistol shot flask....unless it was never used. My reasoning for this is that the inside looks completely clean- in the pic where you can see in the mouth of it, there doesn't appear to be the slightest amount of lead fouling. Another thing to check out is to see if that's an iron or a steel ring on it. That could be a good indicator, as well as the style of blacksmithing. I haven't seen it suggested yet, so I'll also throw in the possibility that it's one of Johanna's "use up the scrap" projects from her early days that somehow found it's way across the pond.

Good looking holster, and very nice job on the color. I think a little more room in it would let the gun sit a bit deeper in the holster, fully covering the trigger.

Casey, you may need to contact them directly to get a prompt response.

Welcome to Leatherworker.net! You've already made a good start by including pics. We LOVE pics, here. Restrooms are down the hall, clean up after yourself in the kitchen, and DO NOT under any circumstances eat the donuts. We're glad you found this little corner of the 'net, and look forward to having you here.

Looks to be the guts of a leather tool pouch. It's too square-ish to be a briefcase. As for the stamping design......put down the tools, step away from the LSD, it will be alright. Actually, I kinda like the free form flow of it.

Zip code is fixed for you.

When do I dye? Usually about an hour before the customer calls and asks about another color. No, really, I've done it both ways, and the getting everything dyed first makes it a lot easier to get the dye even.

I've had some success using "Awesome" concentrated cleaner from Dollar Tree stores. For non-porous surfaces, wow. It's pulled Iodine out of a clothing, with no staining. However, since it is such a strong cleaner and I suspect PEC-12 is too, always recondition the leather where it was exposed to the harsh chemicals.

Anyone have comments about the Coffecup website maker?

Asking for help with a pattern is good, even asking someone to make it for you. As was said, the worst that can be said is "No". We have a section here called "How do I do that?" in which there are LOTS of questions- it's one way to help keep beating a dead cow. I also have to agree that sometimes the correct answer is "no". BOOMstick recently put up a holster pic that I absolutely loved, and at some point will immulate--but not copy--for some of my own holsters. The reason is that he posted that design as an example of what he does for a living. That's my personal take on designs. Images floating around the 'net are a little different, but I will make an effort to change an image I like so that it doesn't infringe on anyone's copyright, or will ask permission to use it. Of the several times that I've asked permission to use a specific image as a pattern, I've never been turned down. Then there's reverse engineering. If you're making something for you and won't be mass producing it, or marketing it, then there's probably no problem. If you do start making and selling the item without significant changes, it can cause a world of problems in a legal way. This happened here with a holster design, where one person said " look what I did, and I have a contract with "X" custom gun maker." Another person was alerted and said " REALLY? That looks like a knock off of MY design which has been in production for several years. In fact, it IS my design!!! I know that gun maker personally and will be contacting him about this, and we'll see you in court." The result I believe was the cancelation of the contract with the first person, and the worse thing, a very tarnished reputation. ( I think this was the Versamax VMII....it was pre-crash)

Is that what that is? OH!!! I thought that room was for the Scots. Whew, that would've been embarrassing. Btw, Johanna, if you haven't been finding many tutorials being sent to you, you might change the link on the main page to "admin@leatherworker.net"

PM coming your way.