TwinOaks

Josh, it sounds like a good excuse, and it IS fairly believable. Why don't you just admit that you tried using a 2lb maul and smacked your hand with it? That is MUCH more likely isn't it?

+1 on the Linux products, though there are quite a few to pick from these days. They have the advantage of being a UNIX based platform, and as such aren't as vulnerable to most of the malware floating around these days. I say most instead of all, just because I don't know if anything has popped up recently. To keep things in perspective read this http://www.allheadlinenews.com/articles/7010483023. As reported, nobody wanted to put in the time to crack Linux- not that it couldn't be done, but nobody wanted to work for it.

If you can get the machine for a good price then go for it. Software is software and can generally be cross compatible: Vista requires more memory, or the comp. can still run xp. Or you could move to open source linux OSs. The biggest issue is getting the motherboard and body together, and connected to a power supply. After that all you really have to have is some USB2 ports. If you've got that, you can plug any periferal you want into it.

For the next time you use the double loop, think of it as tying a funny shaped bowline.

Not to hijack the thread, but something that's only been touched on....the knife needs to be REALLY sharp. For reference on what I mean, after a few cuts, I strop exacto blades. The result is much smoother cutting, and that's what you're after. It shouldn't be 'effortless', but it should be close. Anytime you feel the leather grabbing the blade, it's time to sharpen/strop. When the leather grabs and suddenly releases is the exact moment in time when several hours of work becomes fodder for the scrap bin.

Excellent work! Be sure to copyright that design of yours. I give it two maybe three weeks before you start seeing women's purses with a VERY similar design.....maybe 6 months and it'll be in discount clothing stores. Dang knock off artists...

Hey, if you needed an excuse a reason to add a bay window.....

Terrific piece, Spider, thanks for sharing it with us.

Very nice tute for a basic 'askin's avenger' style. This is very well laid out, and the pics help show what you did. Thank you posting this. I think this should probably be pinned so all our guests and new members can easily find it.

Hi Happycrow, and welcome to Leatherworker.net, Best place on the entire internet! I'm not up to par on the garment side of leather, but I think what you're seeing is wrinkles in the leather. Have you checked out the possibility of using some thicker grade upholstery leather? It's available 'distressed', and has a similar look. Here's a link to the Tandy catalog showing the leather :Click Here

Nothing wrong with IWBing your 1911 , but I don't think I'd take it to the woods. There was a pretty lengthy discussion about the suitability of the .45ACP on another forum I'm on (m1911[dot]org), and the general consensus was that if you're in cat or bear country, .357 mag was the minimum. Anything else, yeah, ol' loudmouth is probably sufficient. Besides, just because you need to conceal doesn't mean you have to go IWB. It's quite possible to make a high riding holster that's OWB, and that way you could cover with only a long shirt or jacket. BOOMSTICKholsters, and K-man, I believe gave some info on where to get the little steel reinforcment shims that go with a thumb break holster.

Hi and to Leatherworker.net. Very nice intro, and you're asking the right questions. For an IWB, I suggest building a tab on the body side of the holster to protect the pistol from your skin. Yes, even if you wear a t-shirt, sweat can still affect it. Also I strongly recommend adding a retention strap to it. IWB holsters aren't known as 'speed draw' holsters, and having the strap won't slow you down that much anyway. It will help to keep the pistol where it's supposed to be, and thereby prevent loss, or ND/ADs. For that size cylinder, are you sure you want to try pulling that past a belt? You might consider building it so that only the barrel is in the waste band. It'll take more leather, but it's something to think about....But then again, are you sure you need IWB for wilderness areas? OWB seems to make more sense. Please read about glueing the holster before stitching, it makes life a whole lot easier. Do you think you'll need to reinforce the mouth to keep the holster from closing when it's empty? If it's an IWB, I wonder why you'll be putting a whole lot of detail on the holster. Simply molding to hold the pistol would speed up production time and save a step. Also, since you're going with all black, have you considered using vinegaroon? (search that term for more info) If, once it's dried, it's really hard to draw/holster the cannon revolver, use a teflon based lubricant spray (RemDry for example) to coat the inside of the holster. That will slick things up nicely. Last thing from me- move the belt slots so that the top of the revolver is closer to the tabs, and the trigger side of the holster is the one further away. That's about all I can think of right now, but rest assured, some of the holster makers will find this before too long and add some good advice. Mike

Well, I guess this pretty definitively shows what's best (of those tested) at water repelling. Thanks for this thread, esantoro, I know a lot of people will find it very usefull.

There's a pretty good reason why lots of people have suggested wearing gloves when applying stains/dyes. The same reason is why lots of folks have work aprons.

Ray, that's a valuable thing to have on the wall, and it's very succinct. Thank you for sharing it with us.

Awesome deal Kevin!

aboard! As you've seen, we love pictures, so get the camera and snap some pics of your work. Don't ever be afraid to post it,

Yep, what Mike said. However, I'd limit it to one follow up contact, about a week after. Any more than that and you're begging for work. Even if you don't have a customer willing to pay for quality, you still have two new patterns.

No, admittedly, I haven't used it specifically to remove skunk from leather. I have used it to remove cat spray from a leather coat, with no apparent damage to the leather. I guess you could always contact the company through the web link I posted to ask them if it affects leather.

The boiled peanuts aren't only localized to the Carolina, they're popular here too, but are occasionally know as "Goobers". Seems sunflower seeds got left out. They're avaialble plain or salted, and the etiquite for them is to tear the corner off the bag and pour an appropriate amount in the mouth. Once there, they're held between the teeth and the cheek, and are consumed by cracking with the teeth, extracting the kernel, and spitting out the hull with a pronounced "pthfffff".

Since Eco dyes are water based, a light dampening of the leather before application will help the dye penetrate and spread out evenly. Yes, you need to buff the unfinished leather to remove excess dye particles. Sometimes, multiple coats may be needed, depending on the penetration of the dye. Thoroughly cleaning the leather before dyeing is important because oil from you hands/fingers can affect the absorbtion. If you're dying something black, have you considered vinegaroon (also called 'striking'). There are several threads on it, but basically it's a chemical reaction that turns the leather black all the way through. It's easy to make, permanent, and it won't rub off.

No comments on the permits, etc., but Congrats on getting married!

Don't worry about language and expression-it will come with time. Beautiful art trandscends language.

Your work is beautiful, and we all benefit from seeing such excellence in the craft.

Now that's planning ahead....probably be the only Sheridan headstone in the whole dang cemetary.