TwinOaks

That looks to be an electric engraver of some sort, with a purpose built beveling tool. I don't see that the tip is interchangeable with anything else. Also, in the comments section someone pointed out that the leather wasn't cut....just beveled. Toss in the eventual nerve damage caused by having a vibrating tool in your hand and having only your hand pressure to get any depth, and it looks like a solution in search of a problem. Not that long ago, there was another video where a guy had modified a needle scaler (air tool) to do pretty much the same thing. Yes, for a certain market like people with only one working hand or some other similar disability, it could have some merit. Or perhaps it would be a good tool for running long lines. But if you notice, the operator makes the outline, then has to go back over it to get any burnish in the tooling. Even with just a plain ol' wood mallet, I get that depth on a single blow. So while I'm only moving at 1/3 -1/2 that speed...or less...I'm only having to follow the pattern once. The operator is also using a beveler where a small pear shader should be used (nostril). I'm not saying that there shouldn't be ANY innovation in the leather tools dept., I just thing that any innovations need to be able to improve on the current tools. A very good example of this is the Tangleboss swivel knife. It's a new take on an old idea, and does have potential. But I see some places where the traditional knife is still going to out perform it. Is it a bad idea? NOT AT ALL. For most things, it will perform as well or better than the traditional knife...but then, that's just my opinion. Anyway, back to the engraver tool thingy....It looks like a neat addition to speed things up, in a limited manner. I don't think it will replace traditional tools, and I can see the potential for making some mistakes with it. An old adage seems appropriate here: " Don't learn the tricks of the trade....learn the trade."

Wow, first Beaverslayer shows up and now Bonnie is back!!! It's like they're all coming home..... Very nice work on the holsters. I also see some minor things like the corner on the sweat shield for the BDA. That's more aesthetic than anything, but corners can become snags (for shirts) and it's a visual diversion from the smooth lines of the rest of it. I'm pretty sure the old grumpy Mike covered the rest of it. Welcome to Leatherworker.net!

There are a couple of things... how much slack you like in the loops, if you're using line 20 or 24 snaps, or leather thickness...that will change the actual measurements If I'm using my dot snaps, which are 5/8" diameter, the straps are 3/4". And don't forget to dress the edges.

I make mine just a little wider than the snap I'll be using, and long enough to go around the belt, hold the snap, and have about a 1/4" as a pull tab.

Welcome to Leatherworker.net! When you have time, we'd love to see some of your work...and if you have any questions, feel free to ask and we'll help where we can.

Good to hear you're out and in 'back to normal' condition. I can't help but wonder about that 'low oxygen' part....did they use the little 'clips on your finger' thing? If so, did you warn them that they were trying to measure O2 through several yards of callous?

Instead of using standard rivets I suggest using something like a button tack. You can look for them in "no sew button repair kits". It consists of a flat backed tack that locks into a 'button'. You probably don't want an actual button (like you'd see in a blue jean repair kit), but should be able to find something decorative to receive the tack. You could conceivable even just use an actual flat metal thumb tack, pushed through from the back, with a wooden button on the front side. Just mount the tack through the bodice and the leather, center the wooden button on top of it, and tap it down.....basically hammering the wood onto the 'nail'. The tacks are thin enough that should you change your mind, you should be able to remove them from the silk without damaging it. Depending on how thick the fabric + leather is, you might need to trim the tack so that it doesn't protrude through the button, but that's easily done with a pair of side cutters / wire cutters. One of the first ones that comes up with Google.....you should be able to find them at just about any craft store or maybe even Walmart. http://www.stuff4sewing.com/antique-brass-no-sew-dungaree-buttons-5-8-4-pkg-sep-38.html?CAWELAID=600777490&gclid=CI2G7-vQibMCFQsGnQod5UMANg

Phil, typically (but not always) it's best to go with the lighter color first then apply the darker one over it. Using an airbrush REALLY simplifies the process of fading from one color to another.

Very nice score!!!! You picked all that up for the price of that arch punch.

Mike, that's just fantastic work. None of the recently popular "molded until you can read the serial #", but still good and snug. I have a question about the rivets: When you use them on something like the paddle, do you find it makes a difference in the comfort dept. to have the burr on the inside vs. the outside? Or is it likely, since this is an 'open carry' rig that the layer(s) of clothing will prevent any discomfort from having the burr against the body? I ask because I'd have leaned toward putting the burr on the outside so the flat base of the rivet would be against the body of the wearer, and wondered if it made a difference.

There's similar discussion here: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=43034&hl=

Oh, and as an aside....yes, I will help people when I can and share knowledge to help them learn about working leather. However, there ARE some things I keep to myself. So I understand both sides of the issue. It isn't about being stingy with what I know. It's about keeping a little niche for me, so that I can have something that I do better than most...which gives me an edge in competition.

Hey, welcome back Beaverslayer!!! To Old Dude: It isn't really surprising at the reaction. You are asking him how he makes one of the details that help sell his holsters. To him, you're asking him to tell you how to make things like he does...which could very possibly cut into his profits. You may or may not be making holsters, but you're still asking how to do something (for free) that he uses to put money in his pocket. However.....Tucker Gun Leather isn't the only player in the game, nor is he the grand poobah of leather work. Look into beader blades (and other tools for making a bead edge). You can also try the cheaper method. Get a screen repair tool from the local hardware store....the one with wheels on both ends. One is convex, the other is concave, and it's used to push the beading into the channel around a window or door. Yep, that tool. Now that you've got the tool, lightly roll the convex wheel on the leather to mark some lines. Cut the lines you marked with a swivel knife and roll the convex wheel over the cuts with medium pressure. Or you could just get a beader blade... This should also help: http://leatherworker.net/beaderblade.pdf

Look at how much leather is above the rear belt loop....That is where your grip space went. Don't be afraid to carve out some of that area to provide space for the grip.

Treat the end of the muzzle just like the sides of the slide and use the same amount of space for the stitch line. This type of holster has a lot of forming to do, so plan on what you'll need to do to stretch the leather out. Don't wet the back side, or it'll stretch too. In the one in the pic...It looks pretty obvious to me that the holster was formed around a mold. There's not enough detail in the muzzle end to indicate the gun/model was used to stretch the leather. Most likely, it was press molded, then stitched.

Pick up a set of triangles from the drafting area of your local hobby store...hobby lobby, Michael's, etc. It's quite possible that the reason you're getting out of square is that the leather is moving a bit as you cut it. Mark the leather first with a stylus of some sort and cut away from the corners to keep from over lapping them. Be sure that your blade is scary sharp so that it slices the leather without pulling on it. The ruler I use is from a speed square and is marked on both left and right as well as front and back. That gives me marks on both sides, so I can start with one straight edge, then line up the marks on either side and the ruler will be perpendicular to the original straight edge. Measure and mark two lines perpendicular to the first and connect their end points for the 4th side of the rectangle.

Oooh-la-lostrich!! Very nicely done, Shooter. I can't help but wonder.....how a white thread would look against the brown ostrich, while keeping the black on black.

Looks good. I prefer a little more leather across the top of the slide, but that's me. You could add a second stitch line 1/4" to 3/8" closer to the gun to tighten it up if needed. For the tunnel loop (the front one), you need to start at the bottom stitch, hang a left and sew all the way around the loop and where the belt will exit, and continue to the end of the top stitch. Right now, the only thing holding the loop against the leather is a single line of stitching top and bottom. Under enough stress, you could see the stitch pull through the leather unless you spread the (possible) load over more stitches. By sewing around the loop, you will add another 8-10 stitches supporting the load......the ones around the front of the hole just look nice and prevent the front of the hole from opening up.

The best optic for you is going to depend on what you expect to do with the rifle. If you're going to be hunting for meat, spend the extra money on a scope that has multiple coatings on the lens, 1/4 MOA adjustment, and has the highest light transmission you can afford. If you just want a 'plinker' or a varmint rifle for the occasional coyote (where you're not concerned about precision shooting and "on target" is good enough), then save the money on a scope for more ammo. A Walmart BSA red dot at >$50 would be more practical than a $2500 ACOG. If you'll be using it for tactical shooting training, look for ruggedness and compactness. If you want "tacti-cool", then just get what looks good. Also be aware of the accuracy capabilities of the platform. The Mini-14 is capable of decent accuracy with good ammo....but a bench rest rifle it is NOT. I don't have extensive experience with really nice scopes (shot a few names, never owned them), but I'll add to your confusion by suggesting another brand - Konus. Good optics for a reasonable price. Of course, the optic can only do so much....if you haven't developed the shooting skills to shoot 1000 yards, there's not much point in having a $3500 Zeiss. As a point of reference for my comments....I've got several friends who have AR platforms with forward grips, more rails than a pool table, lasers, flashlights, and $600 EOTech optics.. I put a $50 fixed 4X Leapers on mine. So far, we haven't run into hordes of MZBs, had to make any tactical entries into fortified compounds (at night), or even shot past 200 yards. The point is, I KNOW that the AR I built (M4gery) isn't going to print dime sized groups at 500 no matter who's shooting it, and I'm not going to shoot better than 2" at 100 with that rifle. So....I have a fun to run rifle that cost about $300 to build (yes...a franken-15) and it's keeping up with similar but more expensive base platforms with $800+ of accessories. That left more money for boolits.....and leather! Just remember to have fun and keep it real. Don't fall into the "arm chair Sniper" hoopla.

Round sharpening rod. There's several brands of ceramic sharpening rods available...on of them is the Lansky Crock Stick. Set the rod in it's angled hole and draw the knife across it.

You can try some deglazer and see if it'll pull the -lac off.

Don't forget Feed and Seed stores.....or even Tractor Supply (no affiliation). You may see some items cheaper, some more expensive....but they're right there in front of you and immediately available.

What you are describing is essentially the same thing - you're sewing over existing stitches to lock them in place. Either way, you've got two stitches in some places, and three in at least one. When you back stitch, if the threads appear crossed (and thus causing the buildup) it may be because of the needle. You can get needles that lay the stitches straight, angled left, or angled right...so they look like this: - - - - - - .....or ///////// ....or \\\\\\\\. I had a similar problem sewing with my Boss when I was using an angled needle. You could also just leave the ends loose and hand sew them in place to lock in the stitch. Keep in mind that on many projects, you won't always be able to return to the same spot - something like an Avenger, or cowboy rig has only one seam in the holster.

You should be able to use double sided seam tape to hold the patches in place, but shop carefully. Some types are 'removable', some are permanent. As to what size thread.....that will depend on you. You could sew it with big, thick, 415 thread, but it'd look terrible (on most patches). I'd think you'd want to stay at size 69 or 92. Sewing them on a home machine......ummm, sure. Be aware that you'll likely have to sew through the lining if you use that type of machine, or make larger openings to get the arm inside it. A LOT of patch sewing is done with a Singer 29 (called a patch machine) or clone, because it features a very small arm and bobbin, and the foot can sew 360 degrees without turning the garment. If you happen to be sewing on unlined vests....disregard that last part.