TwinOaks

Looking at the bags in the links ( ~$200!?!?!???) I think you could manage that with something like a Sailrite LS-1, or LS-2. It's a little portable walking foot machine, and as the name suggests it's primarily for sail work. However, that bag is made of canvas and what looks to be fairly thin (chrome tanned) suede, which means it doesn't take permanent marks from the presser feet. The description of the bag says it's made on a "vintage single needle machine".....which means "It's the only thing I've got". I'm positive the LS-1 would do the job better. The strap handles are not an issue for this type of construction, because they're riveted in place. ETA: This machine would be 'okay' for the bags you linked to....but several members here have reported that it is NOT suitable for general leather sewing. If you will be doing any additional sewing of leather, consider looking at our dealer's ads. Toledo Ind. Sewing has a Chandler machine (Clone of the Consew 206rb) for just over $1000 USD, and will DEFINITELY handle more than the Sailrite. Also, try to get as much machine as you can for the money. You might think it's too much, but it's better to NOT run a machine at it's limits.

My personal opinions..... 1. Since there is no automatic winder, you can get by with only one bobbin...IF...you will only use one type of thread. If you will use more than one type or color of thread, I think it's a good idea to have at least one bobbin for each thread type. 2.. I can see where it might be useful for things like wallets, when you have multiple small pieces stacked....but I glue everything before sewing anyway, so I've never needed it. 3. I have all the feet, and do 95% of my sewing using only the standard double toe presser foot. 4. It's nice to have for long items like belts, but I think it gets in the way on smaller things. It's entirely possible to work without it, you just need to watch where you're stitching. It's not like the machine is going to run away from you.... 5. Haven't used it, I just turn on an overhead light. 6. This is the thread chart from Toledo Industrial Sewing http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html

I do it the lazy way - I hand sew the start and stop points, using a saddle stitch (two needle), and 2.5 or 3 stitches....depending on whether the thread need to end up on the back.

To properly set up the machine for leather, yes, you need some parts AND you will do well to call Steve Tayrien at Cobra Sewing(leathermachineco.com) or Bob Kovar (tolindsewmach.com) as mentioned. I don't think this is everything, but you'll need to swap the motor to a DC servo motor and probably add a speed reducer pulley. And, you'll want to modify or replace the existing presser feet. I am pretty sure that the machines come with toothed presser feet and feed dogs (set up for fabric), and the folks that set them up for leather have some specially made SMOOTH presser feet/feed dogs for the machines. For presser foot clearance, I'll defer to the experts. You might be able to grind the originals down, but you'd also need to polish them and then adjust (if possible) to accommodate the removed metal. Better to just order the smooth feet, I'd think.

Looks very nice! The only 'structural' thing I would alter is the amount of leather on the outside of the belt loops. A thin section there might be subject to more stretching than a thicker piece.....probably would depend on the circumstances.

Welcome to Leatherworker.net! There is a new type of swivel knife that you might be interested in. It's called the Tangleboss, and has the swivel at the blade end of the knife instead of at the yoke end. This might be just the thing for you, as it requires no twisting/turning from your hand - you just hold onto it and pull/push it into the leather. The swiveling blade lets you maintain a constant grip, much the way a pattern cutting knife does. You can see more about it at tanglefoottraders.com. They're a little pricey, but it may allow you to do what a regular knife won't. Btw, I don't have one, nor am I affiliated with the maker....just passing on info. Anyway, jump on in with both feet, we'll answer questions you might have, and generally try to help you out where we can.

It could be in part because of the soap. I read on here a long time ago to use a drop or two in water for casing, and have been doing it ever since. I'm pretty sure it works by breaking the water's surface tension and making it "wetter"....or....it penetrates the leather better.

Great to hear you have a new place, Cheryl! If I may make a suggestion.....get some carpet pad scraps and put under the legs of the metal desk. It'll help prevent the table from resonating through the floor when you tool on it......of course, if you have a large enough chunk of granite/marble, that'll do it too.

Turns out that there's more than one way.....I was thinking of the u1, o2....u2,o1 version. Here's something that should help..........http://www.lbbyj.com/index.php?main_page=page&id=2

I haven't seen any made from plastic, but you can make leather sight channels out of your scraps. It's really nothing more than a set of parallel strips sewn into place. The strips should be sufficiently thick to prevent the front sight from hanging up on the interior, so if you've got low profile sights you could use thin leather...maybe 6oz. If you have large target sights, you will need significantly thicker. I rarely use them, preferring a molded channel, and I think that at some point they become impractical. For example, if the front sight sits up 1/4 inch, then you'd need 16-18oz of leather. To install them, you just lay out where the front sight will go, glue them in, then stitch, or if you prefer, just stitch them in place.

IIRC, for 6 strand round braid, you alternate the pattern when you switch sides. For example: From the left, go around and O-U-O; from the right, go around and U-O-U.

I don't really think it matters why anyone wants them. And yep, this one can be closed.

A machine only speeds up the process....if you can machine sew it, you can hand sew it. But, there IS a bit of time involved. Have a look at this thread and see if it helps.....clicky!

The way to get around multiple makes of the same holster is to use a GOOD glue and check your grip before stitching. The glue won't hold up long term, but will be sufficient for keeping the halves together while you 'tweak' the lines. Once you've done a few with plenty of room for the grip, you'll get an eye for it when you do the initial layout.

Okay...I'm interested. I'll look you up and give you a call tomorrow to see if we can work out some details. I have access to several 586/686 revolvers and J-frame snubbies, would 'generic' molding work alright for you? By that I mean "shaped to hold", but nothing fancy with specific cuts to show parts of the frame.

Yes, you can just rebate the back side of the holster to give clearance for the mag release. Also, can you get a full firing grip without interference from the holster? If not, you can lower the area directly to the left of the trigger guard (as the holster is oriented in the pic), a light bit more and give yourself the room you need.The design looks solid and the only other things I see to comment on are PURELY aesthetic. The 'front' of the holster looks longer than the rear portion, which makes the holster appear slanted. That may be just a picture angle, so if it's pretty even across the bottom, just ignore this one. Last thing: Corners. Leather corners ('outside corners, that have a point) are bad, and on the frame of the inlay, at the junction of the trigger guard and dust cover, that little point has the potential to get lifted, dog-eared, and possibly snag clothing. 20 seconds with a razor to round it, and a minute to reburnish that spot would finish it up. Overall, REALLY NICE LOOKING HOLSTER.

Bill, what do you propose as your wholesale price to the maker....or....what kind of markup do you expect? The reason I ask is that I sell my holsters through a friend's gun store and I'm in the $70 range for the basic holsters, i.e. molded, dyed and stitched, but no tooling or anything fancy. He normally gets 20% on the sale. Perhaps if you tell what YOU expect to pay for the holsters, there might be some interest. Also, what kind of volume will you be purchasing? For two or three at a time, I wouldn't be willing to move off of my expected price. But for a 100 holster order.....then we could talk "volume discount".

...and be aware that unless you're using garment leather, the leather will much stiffer than fabric, so make allowances.

As an alternative, have you considered something like a "Doc Holiday" holster? That would provide a more vertical holster (more secure, IMO), and still be concealable by a jacket (why advertise that they're armed?), but still have fairly easy access that's still in a cross draw configuration...and a bit more accessible than standard shoulder holsters.

I've done some research and experimented a bit and had very poor results using boiling water. I'd like to see some of the good results of dipping leather in boiling water if anyone has some.

I don't think it's going to happen....maybe if you had some vats of PVA, but not with any common glue. Cuir bouilli, which means "boiled leather" isn't actually boiled. It is leather immersed in water until bubbles start coming out of the leather...which looks like boiling. All that's happening is that water is fully penetrating the leather and driving out the air. That means that ALL of the collagen in the leather hide has been reactivated. This fully soaked piece of leather is then shaped and allowed to dry.....very much like the wet molding we do today. For armor applications, the difference is that the leather is much thicker and usually has a harder temper. "But Wikipedia says it's leather dipped in boiling water....". Try it. The extreme heat of boiling water will shrivel the leather into something less than useful. There is a way to harden the leather using a heated wax/oil blend, but you'll still be doing the majority of shaping with water soaked leather....maybe alcohol, if you've got a lot of it. But, here's the important part.....glue doesn't penetrate INTO the leather like water does, and that's the critical part for making cuir bouilli.

A razor knife works very well.......after being sharpened and honed a bit.

Think backwards......do your detail boning on the back side of the holster.

You can pick up sets of neodymium magnets at Hobby Lobby and Michael's in the jewelry making supplies.

Since I DON'T have a helper, I'm just speculating....but I would start with a base pay rate + a lesser percentage. This allows the helper to make a little bit of money while in the learning stage, but doesn't encourage them to get in a hurry and mess something up. If you are paying only a % of completed items, the helper may try to rush things and end up ruining something....or trying things he/she isn't ready for. Either way, mistakes cost YOU money. Once the helper has developed the needed skills, you can move them into a straight percentage which both keeps you from worrying about the work being done correctly, AND gives the helper an opportunity and incentive to make more. I'm not sure I'd pick the 'retail price' as the basis for the commission, but I'd have to see your pricing structure and your P&L.