Kevin

My understanding is that clickers are leather cutters (originally human). When cutting fine leathergoods they use steel to cut on to get a clean cut, hence the clicking sound. Seems like I've heard another explanation, but I don't remember it. I have tried cutting on steel and it does give a very clean cut. NO, I don't use my Don Carlos, I use a #5?(red plastic handle) x-acto knife with an anged blade and use it like a swivel knife. Kevin

Grumpy, it sounds to me that if you're not using a computer to control your sewing machine, then you are a superb artisan and "handstitching". Brings to mind a Nissan comercial where they said their leather seats were handstitched!! Kinda like bridle leather, just means whatever you want it to mean. Yesterday I did some eensie weensie inlays and I was too scared to turn the machine on, I reckon I "handstitched" 'em. Kevin

Wow, I am super impressed again. Thanks, Kevin

After some heavy brain picking and figuring out how I would "cheat" and do this, I came back to look at the photos again. I did miss something the first time around. I thought the sides were stitched directly to the tooling leather. Now I see that the tooling leather is sewn to another piece of leather and that is sewn inside out to the sides. Clear as mud. Thanks, Kevin

Okay, its early and I haven't finished my coffee yet, am I missing something obvious? A. How did you sew it? B. How in the world did you hold it together while sewing? When JMSaddler suggested making an awl out of a spoke, I did it, and stitched 15 stitches per inch and it turned out great, but I would not try what you've done here on a bet. Oh, I don't think that any machine could sew that the way it is constructed. Congratulations, on a job well done, Kevin

When I saw Keith's pictures, I said to myself, wait a minute, that looks familiar. Anyone that goes to Sheridan needs to take the time and go to Cody also. There you will find Seidel's Saddlery. Downstairs is the retail store with lots of wonders and upstairs is the workshop that Keith will happily show you. The day we were there, he was trying to finish up a saddle to enter in the show the next day, but he still took the time to show us around and talk to us. Kevin

Sounds like the first order was backs and the second order was sides. Lots of places if you want backs you have to say so or they will send sides. Kevin

I have only seen two of these jewels. They both had the same problem. The stirrup leathers are held by brass 1'' dees. The dees are held in place with a piece of leather riveted through the saddle with 2 copper rivets. Since there is no tree, this means they are anchored to a bit of foam and chap leather and on both saddles the rivets pulled right through almost effortlessly. Luckily, nobody was hurt in either incident. Absolute junk that should not even be on the market, if someone wanted my opinion. Kevin

I'm pretty sure Pilgrim has them. Kevin

Hi, I would say it all depends on what you are making, awl size, thread and needle size. Real English tanned bridle leather can take a pretty small stitch. 9 spi is/was the norm on English tack with 10-12 spi for very fancy work. As long as you don't stitch across anything, go as small as you want. When the stitch size gets too small for the thread, the stitches will look bad and you'll know it. Hope that helps a little, Kevin

Wow, that is great, makes me want to make some wallets, maybe some jammies with bullriders. Kevin

I saw that on TV last night, it must have been on My Name is Earl. When I lived in Sturgis there was an actual Chat & Chew Cafe. Kevin

I think the black bag has all that hardware to make it look "sexy", like exposed zippers on jackets. The Ghurka is a much more classic utilitarian design. I see a lot of bags with the center clasp and the straps are like an afterthought and are actually just snaps or some other next to useless fastener,(just for looks, no adjustment). I get to see lots of expensive bags that are not made all that well. Yesterday I got an Italian purse,Milano Odini, I think. The leather work is nice but hardware is junk. It has 3 3/8" brass plated pot metal dees to hold the shoulder strap and one broke about the second time she used it. I made dees out of 3" brass rings, very heavy, but when she loads that bag I don't think it will make any difference. Blahblahblah, sorry , Kevin

Hi, just curious, what are those covers on either end of the head ? One more Kevin.

Not to be a smartass, but if you're burning leather with a drill and copper rivets, you need a sharper bit. If somebody used steel rivets, the leather is probably damaged already. I don't think I have to deal with stainless at all. Kevin

I can't quite see them all, but they are shoemaker's edge burnishers. I think for sole and heel edges. They have to be heated, which is why they're so massive(to retain heat). Kevin

If you're just needing enough for handstitching and can't find it, I just use Ritz yellow dye and dye the thread as I need it. I know Windmill Saddlery in Ohio has thin yellow linen but I'm not sure if they have heavier weight. Good luck, Kevin

Threepets, no you don't need a special foot. You fold the leather,sew it flat, bevel the four edges,slick 'er down and that's that. It is slightly more complicated than that, but you don't need a special foot. It probably takes me an hour to make one, so I buy them ready made from North Run Saddlery in Ashland VA. Sorry, I'm at home and don't have a no. for them. I'm sure you replace a lot of halter snaps also. I have finally found one with the screw in piece that is solid brass and doesn't look stupid. Beiler's in Ronks PA carries it. Hope this helps some, Kevin

Campbell-Bosworth may have what you need,since they bought Randall they have the invetory of two great old companies. Kevin

Marlon, Oh my no, I rounded off the end of my finest oilstone, which might be 2" , just a couple strokes on that and a LIGHT buff. I don't even do that very often. Kevin

I rounded off one end of my sharpening stone with a sander, Use that and then buff. A friend of mine has a piece of string impregnated with buffing compound he uses. Weaver sells a board with several different weights of leather mounted in it that you can apply grit or compound to and sharpen on that. Kevin

Hardwood flooring with a rubber mat and very well padded shoes. The only time I'm not standing is when I am stitching. Before I got the rubber mat I had actually worn water stains off the floor from when we had a fire and the floor got good and soaked. When I worked on a concrete floor with the same pad and type shoe, I could not stand for long at the end of the day in line at the store or at a restaurant. I'd sort of like to try the pallet type things they use behind bars but I know I would spend all day looking for stuff I dropped and I spend enough time doing that anyway. Kevin

I have 2 unpolished also. 1 at work and 1 at home, it doesn't seem to matter even when skiving. I do wish they were polished just for my own vanity. Kevin

I can tell you one book not to buy, The Working Saddlers Handbook. It is 218ppg. and has some pictures of a guy webbing up a tree without explanation, except for the captions for the pictures. Everything else is just very basic info. on leatherwork. About 20 pages are just pictures from the Dixon tool catalog with descriptions of the tools. I don't think I've ever seen anything about racing tack. As Art said, be careful about what you work on. I've seen a lot of stuff repaired by people with decades of experience and it was safer when it was broken, at least the person knew where they stood. I do work for a lot of steeple chasers and three of the TOP trainers and barns have the absolute worst tack I have ever seen. Iguess they are far too busy to worry about small details like a person's life. In the end, get your hands on as much stuff as you can and copy what you like. Good Luck, Kevin

Stockings, I love that, I've been using paper and a rubber band. I'm gonna buy me some L'eggs on the way to work. This site is so fntaaastic. Kevin