Kevin

Daggrim, don't give up, it sounds like something simple that is being overlooked. I think the only things that could affect the feed are the stitch length adjustment or presser foot pressure. If you are forcing the feed, then you might be putting a bind on the needle and the shuttle would miss the loop the thread makes and cause skipped stitches. But that's only one possibility, I'm sure others will chime in with more. I've stitched many chap zippers on with a patcher when I had no other light sewing machine. It'll go as far as your shin can stand it. Good Luck, Kevin

I sometimes like to point out that I am not a homeless,12year old in India, who is considered untouchable because he works with dead animal skins. It is going to cost a little more for me to make something. After all I have a 21 year old truck and a $57,000 house to pay for. Please forgive my extravagant lifestyle. Kevin

Oh, and if shoepatch is who I think it is, he's about as close to an expert on this subject as you can get. Kevin

Luke, you might try Mirrus Ind. That's where I got my Adler stand for my Singer.

We have one of these at work. It was originally bought to sideseam cowboy boots, now we use it for sewing knee pads onto flaps on English saddles. I think its great for medium duty, but I don't think it would work too well for three heavy pieces of leather such as a sheath or holster. But that's just my experience, I haven't tried it on anything really heavy. Kevin

I had a guy tell me that protiens in the antler help to burnish the leather. I always thought he was very imaginative, but if enzymes in spittle help, maybe he was right. I do think it makes a good burnisher because of the texture anyway. Kevin

When I was in saddle school, we used peroxide to bleach rawhide for cantle bindings and horn rims. It was thirty years ago though, and I can't remember if we bleached fresh rawhide before it dried too much or if we were rewetting it after it dried. Kevin

I'm just guessing, but I would say he's looking for defects that you would not see otherwise. Kevin

Susan, I live in Winchester and work in Middleburg, if either one is convenient for you I can show you how to thread your machine. You can email me at leatherchopper@aol.com or call me at Journeymen Saddlers (540)687-5888 and we can set something up. Kevin

Without going into too much detail, I crease first, then use a pricking iron. You still have to use an awl to actually cut the holes though. Pricking irons are kind of expensive and if you try to punch it all the way through, you may break off some teeth. The cuts made by the iron will actually guide your awl through the leather at a consistant angle and make average stitching look very good. When I used pricking wheels, no matter how I tried, the stitches weren't nearly as consistant, although they looked fine to me then. 99% of the time you should be stitching toward yourself. One thing I do that you're not supposed to, is cut my holes all at one time first. That way my elbow and wrist are at a constant angle and so go the holes. Otherwise if I have to answer the phone or wait on a customer, I can sometimes see where I stopped and started again. By the way \\\\\\\ not ///////. Good luck, Kevin

Incredible, that is beautiful. I hope the person getting that realizes the work that went into it and treasures it. I also hope that you get a good price for it. Kevin

That is beautiful. I especially like the stripper on a "dish" that spills the wax back into the pot. I also dig your digs. As I write this from my bedroom, I am surrounded by, small bass amp at my side, closet full of cheap guitars, three drawer chestfilled with leather books,3 sewing machine heads, a home sewing machine in a cabinet, and a post machine on a treadle stand from a home sewing machine. Oh, 3 of those longplastic things fullof leather mags under the bed. Sometimes I feel like one of the Norwegian bachelor farmers from Prairie Home Companion. I can't even spell anymore. Kevin Ray Caporaletti

Thanks, Barra I was going to say that, but it would have started me on a rant. Nobody seems to care about that anymore. They just want it to look pretty. Stubben uses laminated billets, at first I thought they had rawhide in the middle. Then customers started bringing them in and they had delaminated when they oiled them. They make stirrup leathers like that too. The other day, a girl brought in a bridle and the bit ends of the cheek pieces had come unglued. I told her to throw it away, its not safe. New Cavalry and Edgewood make allthese fine pretty bridles that look beautiful when they are oiled. They split the grain off, add raises,glue and stitch the grain back on and voila, you have a pretty bridle that is essentially split leather with a very thin layer of grain added to the top. Oh, and some nice stitching, and its not good leather in the first place. I've also started seeing stirrup leathers made grain side out. Retailers don't know the difference and pass their ignorance on to the customer. Uhoh, I did it anyway, Sorry, Kevin

Windmill English Saddle Supply, 7186 Dewey Rd., Thompson, OH 44086 Ph. 440 298 3018 Hope that helps, Kevin

Hi Ashley, I don't know anything about your specific machine, but generally to the left, out of your picture, there should be a pair of discs that the thread should go through to give it more tension. As the thread winds onto the bobbin, it pushes itself where it should be. Think of winding a hose onto a reel, its the same only smaller. Good luck, Kevin

Dave, I would say let it stand. As soon as peopleget home from work and see this, you will get tons of GOOD testimonials. Kevin

Ed, I use an eyebolt in the ceiling, bungee cord for flexability, lead shank chain with snap for adjustability and a stout leather lace to hold whatever I am working on. Its not the purtiest thing on earth, but it helps out. Kevin

Generally, if I'm not working on something that's flat, I like to staple the zipper in. That way I can even try the zipper before sewing. Then just pull the staples as you go, no muss, no fuss. I've never used the double sided tape, but I have had to replace zippers on chaps where it was used. The adhesive doesn't seem to dry, but only gets gooey with age. A guy in the shop stuck his arm and lighter in an English boot to burn a thread and shot the boot across the room. My ex-wife built a potato gun out of PVC, somehow managed to look down the barrel and strike the sparker. The glue hadn't cured yet and burned her eyelashes off. I don't remember the story she told me, but it took a few days for the truth to come out. Good luck, Kevin

I get it from Windmill English Saddle Supply, 7186 Dewey Rd., Thompson,OH,44086 ph. (440)298-3018. I don't use it myself, so can't tell you about that, the guy that does seems to love it. I like to see the twist in the thread, braided thread looks like fly fishing line to me. Stitch on, Kevin

Hi, I think any shoe repair supply house should have it. I get mine from AGS in Ashland VA. Good luck, Kevin

One more thing that is overlooked sometimes, is that there is a brake if you put your heel down on the bottom of the pedal. I've seen some people toe and heel for control. Kevin

The last alligator we got cost $21.21 per sq. centimeter. I added 1/3 for waste (probably not enough for exotic) and doubled for profit. A simple 2 1/2"x 3" credit card slip ended up somewhere around $500! I wasn't aware beforehand so I hadn't given the customer a price. I charged him about $50. Boss says no mo' 'gator!! Kevin

The last time I got some was from Windmill Saddlery in Ohio. Kevin

It is a surcingle buckle. You can get stamped or cast, chrome or brass. I think I get them from OTB, but I'm at home so not positive. Kevin

I haven't been around any western stuff in 30 years, is that horse really preferable to anyone? Its back looks like the horse the kids rode on Our Gang. How could anything be made that wouldn't bridge all the way from back to front? Kevin