stu925

Give me a couple of days and I'll let you know how a K frame fits in an L frame holster. Then you can be a little more confident about it. I sent an L frame holster to my nephew a while back and he sold the gun so he's sending it back should be here by Friday at the latest I think. I'll put my K frame in it and see how it fits. Stu

My K frame cylinder measures 1.44" in diameter. L frame blue gun measures 1.54" (sorry don't have an actual L frame to measure) I think JLS got it right, that full under lug barrel screams L frame to me. I suppose Rossi could have built it of Colt frame specs but I doubt it. As I recall, Rossi is affiliated with Taurus who built knock-offs of S&W guns for years. My money would be on an L frame. K frame guns will supposedly fit in L frame holsters but I've not tried one to see how close they will fit and that's all based on internet speculation and rumor. Stu

My K frame from the top strap to the bottom of the trigger guard is closer to 3.5", J frame is just a hair under 3.0". However I suspect his measurements are skewed and it's a K frame sized gun but that's just a hunch. With the slope of the trigger guard I can pull a 3.18" measurement if I go forward on the trigger guard to pull the measurement. For an L frame to get a 3.18" measurement you have to be all the way forward on the trigger guard almost to where it curves upwards into the frame. If you can get the customer to use a set of calipers on the cylinder that should clinch the frame size for you. Stu

Then I must have done something right. Tell her I said thank you. Thank you, I appreciate it. Thanks everyone for the compliments. Stu

Nice work, especially that last one. Definite improvement as they go along. Stu

I have a C.S. Osborne 1 3/4" oblong punch which punches a slot 1/4" wide and seems to be perfect for me. My belt is 1 3/4" wide and fits perfectly in the 1 3/4" slot, a heavier duty belt might be an issue and need a wider slot, I haven't tried it yet. Stu

I use either 8/9 or 9/10oz leather for just about everything I make. I usually buy when Tandy has it on sale and buy a couple of double shoulders. I find it easier for me to only stock one weight of leather since I am so limited on space. If I need lighter stuff for a project I order it but for most of the stuff I make the heavier stuff is perfect. Stu

Holy crap man. I can't imagine how much work goes into something like that. I've got enough trouble staying current on my holsters and knife sheaths, that would take me years to build. Beautiful work. Stu

I like it, interesting design with the paracord lacing. Nice work. Stu

The dye is Fiebing's Dark Brown, I usually use their professional oil dyes but their regular leather dye was all I could get my hands on at the time so that's what I bought. Stu

Nice, I've been watching the videos too, haven't been on youtube for a couple of days so I need to get caught up. Stu

I've been getting $75 a piece for my IWB or OWB holsters with no shortage of work. Could be the market's a bit more inflated here I guess. Shoulder holsters are going for $175 although I don't make many of them which is a good thing for me, I don't particularly enjoy making them. Honestly though holsters are a small piece of my leatherwork. I'm with YinTx, I think you could have gotten more for it but if you're happy with it that's really the only thing that matters. Stu

Yep what everyone else said about the clip. As for snap placement, I always make sure I leave just a little bit of extra leather on that flap and then remove it after the snap is in place. Your issue looks more like a flap length issue then a snap placement issue. If you cut the back piece a bit long and wait until everything else is done you can then trim it to a length you're happy with. All in all a good first piece and you will definitely see improvements with every piece you finish. I'm definitely no expert having finished my first piece about 1 1/2 years ago but the difference in the quality of work from that first piece to what I can produce now astounds me sometimes. I still have a lot to learn but I learn a little bit on each piece and apply what I learn to the next one.

I agree, nice work. The pocket quiver idea intrigues me, I may have to make one for myself and see if I like it. Stu

It's an old Un P.C. joke. They used to sell them made of plastic as a gag gift and called them the Polish handgun. Stamp looks good, plenty of detail. Stu

I still struggle with stitching thick pieces like that. I used diamond hole chisels from Tandy but they won't go through that much leather so I have to finish the holes with an awl which is tedious but necessary. I have to really slow down and focus on this step to keep the awl straight so my stitching looks right. For really thick pieces I lay the piece on a piece of scrap leather on my cutting board and then rap the awl with a deadblow so that the awl goes straight through and doesn't pull the back side when it does. This method works well but you really have to watch that awl to make sure it's straight. I almost always end up waffling a stitch or two. By the way the sheath looks great. Stu

The only way that revolver could discharge is if the hammer were cocked when it was put in the holster. That would not be a safe way to carry any revolver and most everyone that deals with firearms should know that. Even on a double action a discharge would be highly unlikely as the weight of pull would be so heavy as to make it nearly impossible for it to happen without knowing something was hung up. I would not have an exposed trigger with a single action semi-auto however because most people carry them in condition 1 (round in the chamber, hammer cocked, safety on) thereby making a negligent discharge much more likely in the even the safety were to get bumped off. A lot of early revolver holsters were exposed trigger holsters making it faster to draw and fire. Stu

I just had one to do this time around. I got it finished in time now on to the rest of my order sheet. Guess I can't complain too much about having work at least. Stu

A far sight better than my first holster. Nice work for a first attempt and I'm sure it won't be your last project. Stu

A perfect tribute for a fallen officer. There is no more devastating thing for a Department than to lose an officer in the line of duty. Nice work and I'm sure every one of the officers in that department would like to shake your hand and say thank you. Stu

Wow, beautiful work. Stu

Looks great, I'm sure you'll sell a bunch of them. Stu

Looks good, reminds me of my cuff cases which reminds me that I have one partially completed and need to get to work and have finished by Monday. Great, thanks a lot Seriously though, good work, I like the clasp a lot. Stu

Thanks everyone for the comments. Actually snubbyfan, I owe you a thank you for your advice on the edges. I followed your edge burnishing method and those are my results. I actually added an extra step and hit it with some resolene after it was all done, I'm hoping it protects the edge a bit. Stu

Nice, I like the idea of a holster that's easy to put on and take off. Good job. Stu