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stu925

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Everything posted by stu925

  1. Very nice, I especially like the different shad of leather in the welt. I'm sure he's pleased with the work. Stu
  2. Yep, I'm with the others, looks great. Way better than my first sheath. I really like the canted design, I may have to borrow that someday. Stu
  3. I'd say your art background has served you well that rig looks great. Nice wrok. Now you have to get her something spectacular for her birthday, this could get expensive especially if you try to out do each other. Great guns and a nice looking holster rig. Stu
  4. Yep what he said. Why look for a 2 1/2" mold gun when I can just use the 4" gun. Stu
  5. Had a request for a holster for a pancake style holster for a 2 1/2" 686. The guy is always climbing in and out of farm equipment so I was concerned about banging up the muzzle of the gun so I left it just a bit long on the muzzle end. Overall I'm very happy with this one, it's probably my first project with no real stitching issues and I spent a lot of time on the burnishing. The cant of the gun is just sbout perfect and the thumb break is just right. Here's some pictures:
  6. Looks great but I could definitely see where that stiffener might become uncomfortable. I've never tried a wrap around stiffener, I've been stitching mine on the front side only. Stitching looks great, you should be proud of that one. Stu
  7. No, I ended up making my own. If I had any idea how to do it I would post it here and share but alas I've no idea how to go about that. Here's a link to the thread with the finished holster http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=61632&hl= I'm in the process of reworking the template for a 2 1/2" L frame right now for another customer. I'll be starting that holster as soon as I finish the Glock IWB holster I'm working on now. Stu
  8. Thank you both for the kind words. I'm working on another template right now for one with a 2 1/2" barrel, I'm definitely going to round those corners a bit more on this one. Probably also bring the leather up a tad over the trigger guard. I'll get some pictures up when it's done. Stu
  9. Very nice, looks like it was designed for most medium framed autos or was it designed with a particular gun in mind? Stu
  10. stu925

    At It Again...

    Much better than the axe sheath I did. I really need to make another one of those one of these days. Stu
  11. I find that with the open type flashlight holders flashlights with tailcap switches get turned on every time you sit down. That can get expensive with those CR123 batteries. Stu
  12. I think the sheaths look great. I like the look of the rivets. I have had the same issue with rivets when using the cheap rapid rivet setter that comes with the rivets. Once I ditched that and picked up a snap-all/rivet setting kit. That pretty much eliminated my issues. I've had one rivet bend since I bought that kit and I attribute that to not holding the setter straight on the rivet. As for the knives, handles look fantastic and probably didn't look that good from the factory. I'd like to see the blade work too. Stu
  13. Big difference between the 2 belts, 2.0 looks very nice. I'd kinda like to hear the story behind the drunken night where the belt got left in the hotel. Stu
  14. I'm sure he'll love it, I would. Great work and a great thing to do for Dad. Stu
  15. Now I have workshop envy. My leatherworking space is my home office. Not much room in here, my desk doubles as my workbench. Stu
  16. Good god man, how many hours do you have in those boots. I am truly impressed. I have enough trouble putting a holster or sheath together, I can't even begin to imagine the planning that goes into making a pair of boots. Nice work. Stu
  17. Looks great, I'd be interested to know how that 45° angle works out. Stu
  18. I've had that same issue with stitching and it's pretty easily remedied. I bought a craftool diamond hole chisel set from Tandy ((3309-00 if you're interested). It comes with 1 handle and 10 different chisel heads that thread onto the handle. Works great for keeping those stitches straight. You'll have an issue with thick leather like the edge of that sheath where there's a welt but if you start the holes with the chisels and then finish with a diamond awl it should help a lot. I like the look of that sheath and once your stitching issues are fixed it'll look really nice. Stu
  19. Sounds like maybe you should have played the lottery. An open trigger design on a SA revolver wouldn't bother me and I suppose with the DA triggers on most revolvers these days it wouldn't be much of an issue although it wouldn't be my preferrence. I would not however consider an open trigger design on an auto, seems that would be a recipe for disaster to me. Thank you for your comments on the work, I've only been working with leather a few months so the opinions of more experience people means quite a bit to me. Stu
  20. I never thought of putting the snap of the outside of the holster, I might have to look into that, maybe I'll try it when I finally get around to building one for my 1911. It's a great idea if I can make it work, I'm just not sure how you'd break the snap without changing your grip. Might take some thinking on that one. I like the look of it, but I was concerned about having the cover garment get caught in the trigger guard. Odds are it will never happen, we'll see how he feels about it once he's had a chance to carry it a bit. Thank you both for your comments. Since this is only my third concealed carry holster I'm pleased that more experienced leather workers like the work. Handed it off to the customer today and he was very happy with it so that's a win in my book. Stu
  21. I posted over in the patterns and template section looking for a template for an L frame S&W revolver. Ended up making my own template for it. I'm pretty proud of this holster, I think it came out almost perfect. My only issue is where it covers the trigger guard, it should have covered the whole trigger guard not just the trigger. So specs are: it's a high rise pancake style holster made from 8-9oz leather from tandy dyed with feibing light brown and finished with satin shene followed by a coat of Johnson's paste wax. The belt slots will accomodate belts up to 1 3/4" wide and a 1 3/4" belt fits so well that when you tighten the belt it locks the holster in place. This holster won't be moving around on a 1 3/4" belt. Took a bunch of pictures from every conceivable angle so look it over and tell me what you think. Those last 2 pictures should give you an idea how the holster rides and how tight it pulls the gun into the body. Your comments are appreciated. Stu
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