BillB

Just be careful when you use it. The old lead based type is soft and can deform under pressure. I did that to a set I had by using a stamp press and too much pressure. Wood Block of the newer aluminum type should work better. BillB

I use old metal print type. Lots of sets available on ebay and at antique stores. Some places sell by the piece which means you only need to buy the ones you need. Bill B.

Very simple to check what she said by scrolling back to the top and you will see that she wrote: "Now if I find him posting copies of the manual to ebay or something, I'm going to have to show up on his doorstep with a horsewhip and improve his manners." I expect that when she began the sentence with "Now if I find ...." means it was not happening at that moment. hope this clears it up. BillB

When I by something for my self I never buy the item if there is a name smack dab in the middle of the design or where it is visible. I did not sign up to advertise that company or what ever, nor do I get paid to do so. So I never put my makers mark where it can be readily seen, i.e. bottom of purse, inside the buckle loop of the belt. I will even leave it off the item if I can not find a place to hide it. This is my personal preference since it is what I look for when I buy something. You will have to decide for yourself how important you makers make is compared to the item and design. Let us know what you decide. BillB

If I were going to do such a thing I would: 1. Get some orange Leather Dye from Fiebings. It is an alcohol based dye. 2. Mix several different solutions of Dye and Reducer with various mix ratios. 3. Take a scrape of the Elk and dye small sections of it with each of the solutions to see if you can get to the color you want. It may take several applications of a weaker solution, than a single shot of a strong solution. 4. If you can find the right solution, then you can dye the Mocs. 5. You will now have the problem of using something to get the elk back to its original soft form since the alcohol will dry it out and probably make it stiff. Good Luck. If you are successful you should post some pictures as well as explaining how you achieved the color you ended with. BillB

Sounds like their company is appropriately named: "Sucker Punch". Sorry that you were the target.

There are two ways that I know how to make a money clip. Metal clip version 1. Obtain a metal u shaped clip that will provide the force to hold the money. 2. Fabricate the three leather pieces that will then cover the clip. One large piece for the outside surface of the U and two shorter ones for the inside leg of the U. 3. Carve on the larger outside piece. 4. Sew the three together trapping the clip in the proper place. Magnetic strip version 1. Obtain two magnetic strips for the clip function. 2. follow steps 2-4 from above except the pockets are for the magnets. Option 3 - Buy the kit from Tandy. Tandy also sells the magnets by they selves. BillB

Chris, It might be that the edges are not cleaned after burnishing to remove any remaining beeswax or beeswax based solution. If there is any beeswax remaining on the edges it might be picking up the blue jean fuzz. Have you tried taking a plain canvas rag and rubbing the edges to remove the blue coloration. If so and it does remove the coloration, than it is a surface contamination problem due to the residue of the solution you are using during burnishing. Good luck BillB

TwinOaks is correct you need to be more specific and even then there will be a range of machines to decide from. Here are some things to consider: 1. Maximum thickness that you plan to sew. This would be all the layers of leather in a project that form the sewing edge. For example, the Writing Bi-Folds I do go from two layers to four layers with the thickest point being about 1/2 inch and the thinnest being about 1/8 inch. So the machine I use has to be able to handle at lest 1/2 inch. You then need to add some margin on top of that since the thickness of each bi-fold is dependent on the leather I got, so I went to one that can handle 3/4 inch thickness. 2. What types and thickness of thread will you be using, this will determine needle size along with the thickness. 3. How much room do you need in the arm of the machine? 4. How much room do you have for this machine? Does it also need a flat work space. For example, my machine is on a small rolling platform that allows me to slip project over the arm when doing seams inside something like a purse. I can also attach a work platform around the arm so I have a flat work space for doing the Bi-Folds. 5. How hard are you going to work the machine, e.g. hours of use per day? This then goes with: How do you plan to have it serviced if it need to be done? Is it important to have a dealer in the area? 6. Although most are pretty standard, what types of control do you want on the machine and platform. This is especially important when consider speed control. 7. And of course there is always the question of cost. BillB

Randy makes a small plastic tool rack for @$10. It holds 35 carving tools and a swivel. Since it is plastic it is very light. I have had mine for 30+ years. Part #8123-00. Today I use mine to hold those tools I am using on a project. The rest of my stamping tools are in the larger wooden tool racks on a book case. BillB

I don't know of any book, but I use old metal Print Type for some of my lettering. Although this is similar to using a letter stamp, since they are not designed for leather it is easy to over stress the metal and deform the letters. The advantage is that there is a lot of old print type out there for sale and there are all sorts of fonts and sizes. BillB

There are two other books that I would add to the list if one can find them and afford them: Leather Secrets by F.O. Baird - This is a How to book similar to Al Stohlman's books but it also includes patterns that can be traced and used as templates to cut the leather components. It also has tooling patterns that can be used as well. Leather Art by F.O. Baird - This book teaches how to draw carving patterns in a Sheridan style. Both books are out of print and predate Al Stohlman's books so some of the designs are out of date (purses and belts) while others are timeless (holsters, rifle scabbard). As with the Al Stohlman books, it is what they teach in design and construction problem solving that is the value. I did a quick search and found Leather Art on Amazon ranging from $19.95 to $29.95. Leather Secrets was on Ebay and was at $90 for a bid. BillB

Casaerwin, Welcome to the forum, 2 years after you joined. Glad you finally decided to introduce yourself. You have some nice looking pieces. As for the round knife or head knife, have you considered buying a high grade cement trowel and shaping it into the knife with a grinding wheel? All of the tools we have today originated in that fashion. I have some stamps that my uncle made in WWII at the base recreation facility and some are made out of bolts with the head being shaped into the stamp. I use a knife a friend made me out of auto spring steel. It is S shaped and meets my needs. Again, welcome to the forum and keep pounding leather. 8-) BillB

JoMo, Welcome to the forum. Not bad for a first project. My only comment would be in the crispness of the work. For example, the outer lines of the pattern seem to fade out on the left side of the picture. Not sure if this is a problem with the picture or the depth of the cut lines and the beveling. There are several tutorials in the "How do I do this" section that you might want to review. The most important thing is to practice, practice, practice. I made lots of presents before I sold anything. I look forward to seeing more of your work. Again, Welcome to the forum. BillB

Case, Welcome to the Forum. There are lots of friendly folks around here to will help answer any questions you might have. I think you will also find that there are lots of different ways leather can be used for: purses, saddles, masks, leather armor, 2-D and 3-D Pictures. Look around, talk to folks, join in the conversations when you want to. The free coffee and donuts are down the main hall and at the corner. There is a section on sewing in the Fabrication area. Not sure what type of machine you currently have, but I recommend you use a couple of scrape pieces of leather to simulate the thickness and layers you would sew and try your machine on it first. I tried to use a cloth sewing machine once and went and got me a leather sewing machine. You practice piece looks pretty good. Keep it up and yes we do like pictures. Again, Welcome to the Forum BillB

JLHosse, Welcome to the Forum. Glad you were able to find what you were looking for. Hope you stay awhile and add to the knowledge that is here. The free coffee and donuts are down the main hall and at the corner, help yourself and join in the conversations. We also like seeing pictures of the work you are doing. BillB

Bradley, Welcome to the Forum. Glad you joined. As crystal mentioned, there are lots of folks around that have similar interest and we all like to help. The free coffee and donuts are down the main hall and at the corner, enjoy. BillB

Simon, The Buffalo Bill Fold Company, 326 Tenth Street, Worthington, MN 56187 makes a lot of things out of buffalo. You may want to check out their website: www.buffalobillfoldcompany.com BillB

Nomad, Welcome to the forum. Lots of good folks here that will help you out. So look around, sample the conversations, join in when you want to. Don't be shy about asking questions. We are not shy about giving our opinions. I know you said you are starting out with belts and then want to do stuff for your HD, but don't be afraid to try the other styles of leather craft that appeal to you. Again welcome to the forum. BillB

John, Welcome to the Forum. Interesting collection of items. Leatheroo does masks and you might want to look at some of her work. There are also several folks that do Steam Punk and some of the work look like that style. Glad you joined and I think you will find some kindred spirits here. Thanks for posting the pictures, it really helps in knowing what you are interested in. The free coffee and donuts are down the main hall and at the corner. BillB

Stewart & Family, Welcome to the Forum. What type of leather work are you doing or are planning to do besides sandals? If you haven't walked around here much, you will find a pretty friendly group that are very helpful and sharing regarding leather crafts. Children are also welcome. Walk around, sample the conversations and join in on the ones you want to and share with us your experiences. The free coffee and donuts are down the main hall at the corner. BillB

Knut, I use it on dry leather. Not sure it would work on oiled leather since that oil would already be present in the fiber and there would be no place for the oil dye to penetrate to. Of course the opposite might also be true in that the oil present would actually wick the dye into the fiber better, but then how do you control where it goes? Interesting question, I might have to do some test patches which is what I would recommend you do. BillB

Leatheroo, And to think it was done around 700AD using quill pins and candle light. Not sure what they used for a magnifying glass other than polished quartz. Still, you did a fantastic job. BillB

Have you tried Clear Boot Polish? First coat takes a lot of work to seal the leather. BillB

Leatheroo, Nicely done. Is a page from the Book of Kells next? BillB