Kohlrausch

Hi, the 328 are about 52.15 millimetres from shaft to eye. That's about 2.05 inches. Greets Ralf C.

I was going to recommend an old Adler 5, but then you upped the ante from 16 to 19 millimetres. My Adler 5 - cost me 180 USD incl. gas - does 20 mm footlift. I guess you will have to redesign either your sheaths or your bank account. Greets Ralf C.

Oh, I thought you were German. But no prob, there are plenty of English speaking members at Hobbyschneiderin24.net. And ya, the 38 is nice. Pfaff kept it in production even after the advent of the 138, because it was used by leatherworker professionals like the shoe industry. Even today there is also an international professional secondhand market where 38s command four-digit-prices. Greets Ralf C.

Alex, please register at the German forum Hobbysschneiderin24.net, go to the Pfaff-section and ask your question there. It will be read by Josef. Just to give you a headstart: Josef will want to see photos. Please show a general overview of your sewing machine. A detail view of the zigzag-knob. A detailview of the zigzag-knob from below. And, if you are bold and brave, take off the zigzag-knob and take a picture of what's behind. The knob will be secured by a setscrew either on the underside or at the right side. Josef does have parts, he wants to see if he has the right ones. According to him there seem to have been several versions. As for buttonhole attachments: The Pfaff-industrials are a few millimetres more high shank than the average industrial machine. You would have to make sure that an attachment actually fits. Some sellers state expressly that their attachment is for high shank industrials except Pfaff. Same applies to high-shank-low-shank-adapters. You can use Pfaff's own adapter 6603. I would then recommend the Singer Professional Buttonholer because it comes with a variety of different shapes an sizes and is not restricted to one fixed steering cam. In any case you will need an actuating lever - with household sewing machines this usually is the needle-thumpscrew. With an industrial you will probably have to fix your own lever. In the German secondhand market Pfaff 130 start for free, commonly sell for 20 to 50 Euros and won't sell above 150 Euros. Pfaff 38 are being offered for 30 to 120 Euros and Pfaff 138 range from 50 (treadle), 70 (motorized) to about 250 and likely don't sell easily above that. With prices being so low it might be a lot easier to just get another machine that actually does what you want it to than to tinker along and tweak and twist. Also I am not sure that a zigzag buttonhole is a good idea with leather. You might just perforate it. Maybe the book "Schneidere selbst" by Lieselotte Kunder will give you some ideas. It was coproduced by the Pfaff Sewing Academy and relies heavily on the Pfaff 260 for examples - which uses the same zigzag mechanics as your 38. HTH Greets Ralf C.

Hi Alex, if you live in a Pfaff-country you could try a repair shop. Some part out old machines and, if they look long enough, can come up with just about any screw or spring. Easiest way may be to do just this yourself. Today a Pfaff 130 sold for 24 Euros on Ebay Germany. If you need a relay in shipping I will be glad to help. You might also try to contact Josef in the Pfaff-section of Hobbyschneider24.net. He is a retired Pfaff technician and has some stock of spareparts. If you want me to shoot him an email I will happily do so. Greets Ralf C.

Darren, do you know how slow the motors of the first post can turn? Greets Ralf C.

http://keilriemen24.eu/index.php/cat/c12295_1008-1008.html http://www.wdn.de/artsearchresult.php?STICHWORT=riemenscheibe+40&x=0&y=0 http://www.mercateo.com/p/102-238341%282d%29BP/Keilriemenscheibe_aus_Aluminium.html Seems you can only get 50 mm diameter with taperlocks. HTH Greets Ralf C.

At this very moment I have pulley with three different tapered bores lying around me and motors with three different cylindrical shafts. There certainly are a lot more possibilities than 15 mm. Wish it were that easy... Greets Ralf C.

In Germany I find 12 mm and 14 mm bores, no 13 mm. I'ld try a 12 mm and a 13 mm drill. Or a 14 and a little bit of sheet metal to fold around the shaft. Greets Ralf C. I found that the Jack motors have a 13 mm. straight bore shaft. I am wondering, however, if a 15 mm. straight bore could work. The pulley has a notch and the shaft should have the key for this notch, so it's not like a 15 mm. bore pulley will spin around freely. What do you guys think? The pulley might rotate 2 mm. off-center, but otherwise it should work, no?

Oh, I thoght there were all kinds of diameters like 8,5 mm, 9,3 mm, 10 mm, several tapered bores, all kinds of inch fractions. You probably got lucky. When I asked Colege Sewing about exchange pulleys they said, there were none. I should change the speed settings. Greets Ralf C.

Uwe, you are one bad boy. Greets Ralf C.

Hi, the sign says 190-240 Volt 1PH I read that as European Voltage single phase. Would that work with 220 Volts US or would it need some kind of conversion? Greets Ralf C.

Hi, did you read the thread 'bout the Pfaff 28 started by LeatherLegion? Should answer your questions. You want to sell, he wants to buy... what could one make of that... Greets Ralf C.

Hi, you're trying to buy one, Rossr is trying to sell one. Maybe you two can team up and both be happy? Greets Ralf C.

Naaa, ment this one: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Singer-Industrial-Sewing-Machine-17-41-Leathers-Upholstery-Heavy-Duty-Commercial-/262124862905?hash=item3d07dbfdb9:g:pWEAAOSwlaxWN9fk Here's the parts manual: https://www.google.de/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=9&ved=0CEwQFjAIahUKEwiIrojtzYHJAhUovXIKHT7ZDsM&url=http%3A%2F%2Fhensewfiles.com%2FPDFs%2FPfaff%252028.pdf&usg=AFQjCNE762KJ-YPw1NC2ptLpdgtvVXO9ug&cad=rja Also, to assess the price correctly we would have to know whether it ist 600 USD or CAD. I paid 75 Euros for mine, which is about 107 CAD. 620 USD got me a Pfaff 23, a Pfaff 138, a Pfaff 145, an Adler 30-1 and an Adler 5, four tables and two motors, the motorized 145 being the most expensive of the lot @ USD 270. Greets Ralf C.

Hi, to put this in perspective: 600 for the machine plus servo plus speed reducer and you end up around 850 to 900 USD. 995 would get you a brand new Cowboy CB 2500 complete with servo and speed reducer. That's why I think the seller's asking price is too high. As for the bobbins try cutex: http://www.cutexsewingsupplies.com/singer-17-17u-18-18u-and-68-class-sewing-machine-bobbins-2073-pack-of-10 Greets Ralf C.

Well, there is a Singer 17 on Ebay right now with one day left, so we will soon learn what the market says. Greets Ralf C.

Hi, I geht 7,24 mm dia on my Pfaff 23. Total legth appears to be 208 mm. This is a rather close copy of the Singer 17. Greets Ralf C. Greets Ralf C.

Hi, I think, Sieck cater for corporate customers who set up an entire factory, order all they need and negotiate an all-inclusive price. They are offering the machines for the advertized price. What they sell them for we don't know. Sieck also offer a Pfaff 38 for 1150 Euro - about ten times the German Ebay-Kleinanzeigen (Craigslist) price. Sieck just don't sell it for the four-digit-price. Constabulary, you are a good father to your sewing machines. Once you have been all over them they may be a good buy for your asking price. But you haven't worked over the machine in question. One would have to know the needle system for a more detailed analysis. If it is a subclass for the flatshanksystem 805 this may well mean that LeatherLeagion would be stuck with householdneedles 15x1 and their limited choice of sizes and leathertips. Greets Ralf C.

Hi, sometimes I get the impression that prices in Germany and the USA differ by a factor of 4. I think the Pfaff 28 is a totally outdated piece of equipment with very limited use. I would only buy it if it is available for next to nothing or if you know exactly why and how a Pfaff 28 is the solution for one of your sewing problems. If I don't mix things up the Pfaff 28 goes back to the Singer 17. Singer made them in pairs: The Singer 17 being the usual rightstanding machine, the Singer 18 being a mirrored copy standing on the left side of the table. The usual suspects copied this design: Adler 47 and 48, Pfaff 23 and 24. I have a Pfaff 23. It is so close a copy to the Singer 17 including subclasses and the quirky external reverse leverage that I believe you can swap parts. Actually, when I bought it, its acessory-box contained Singer and Pfaff parts all mixed up. Later Pfaff came up with the couples 25/26 and 27/28. As far as I can tell from photos and scanned sales brochures Pfaff modernized the castings to accommodate for changing tastes but didn't do much to the internal machanics. So essentially you would be buying 19th century technology comparable to the well documented Singer 17. It was designed to make purses ore similar stuff. I think 600 Dollars should get you a better machine or the Pfaff 28 should be way cheaper. If it comes with a fully functional treadle I'ld pay no more than 150 USD, if the stand is with the clutch motor only I would'nt pay more than 100 USD. I think, unless you have a quirk for old technology it's wasted money, you woiuld be better off buying a Pfaff 335 or similar. This is one of the few instances of when I think that a professional machine really doesn't do much more than a strong household sewing machine like a Pfaff 332 or similar. Here's a manual of the Pfaff 28: http://www.google.de/imgres?imgurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.handleidingzoek.nl%2Fviewer%2F40202%2Fbg1.png&imgrefurl=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bedienungsanleitu.ng%2Fpfaff%2F28%2Fanleitung&h=1584&w=1224&tbnid=Axd0tud9Vi3H8M%3A&docid=avo7pitJJXBeZM&itg=1&ei=DyY_Vu70N4qzsQGUn52ICQ&tbm=isch&iact=rc&uact=3&dur=1179&page=1&start=0&ndsp=43&ved=0CF8QrQMwFGoVChMIrrihlNGAyQIVilksCh2UTweR Greets Ralf C.

Hi, that's because it isn't right. The lever marked with the arrow (bell crank lever) has to sit in a groove in the round metal piece above it. You will have to take off and dismantle the head assy to put it back. Greets Ralf C.

Well, to make this a fair comparison one would have to add that these were not original Singer parts but far east knock offs. They are not available for all Singer 29s, at least not specified as such by the sellers. The Singer 29 knock off parts I have bought off College Sewing fit into my Adler 30-1 with no problem, but I have also heard from people, who couln't even make College Sewing parts to fit into the machine that they were specified for. And these guys were no tinkerers but (leatherworking) sewing machine professionals. I'ld go with the better stitcher. Ask the sellers to set maximum stitchlength, let it punch 11 holes and measure the distance between first and last hole. Should be two inches. If it is two inches, buy immediatlely - the machine ist good. If it's between 1 3/8" an 1 37/64" (don't these fractions drive you crazy?) it's worth asking for a reduction, if you can live with the stitchlength. Anything less is asking for trouble. There may be more parts worn out than fixing solutions have been postet on the internet. I know, because I have a not yet publicly documented wear problem reducing stichtes to 8 spi. Greets Ralf C.

Offering an old decorative cobbler or saddler sewingmachine as shown in the picture. Greets Ralf C.

Hi, I wouldn't buy it. While I do understand the wish for a patcher I would go with the ubiqitous Adler 30 or Singer 29. Proven designs and parts and manuals available. The Dürkopp you showed is a similar model to what a shoemaker in my neighbourhood has in his window - he says, it doesn't use bobbins at all but winds the thread to a spiral which is inserted into the lower arm of the machine. Threadfeeding is a bit of hit and miss due to unevennes in winding - which is why the Singer 29 an Adler 30 and their many lookalikes use bobbins. Greets Ralf C.

Hi Johanna, my sewing is a joke anyway. So please sign me up. THX Greets Ralf C.