David

Chuck, What I was actually looking for I found in abundance on your site. That was inspiration. Your work is amazing, I haven't seen anything that matches your work. That's coming from someone who lives within shouting distance of Friendship, IN. Thanks for the great site. David Theobald

That's the site I was looking for. Thanks so much.... Such beautiful stuff Dave Theobald

who on this site makes holsters for black powder revolvers and also makes possibles bags? They have a site which I have visited but must not have bookmarked it. Can anyone help? Thanks, David Theobald

Black or Grey.... you gotta love those creative bikers..... Actually, I'm thrilled for you and especially glad that I didn't get asked to do that one! Not going to be an easy cover. I'll be interested to see how you accomplish it. Most drag bike guys don't even put leather on their seats because it adds too much weight; so I'm assuming that there will be minimal padding. Keep us posted Dave

With reference to glassing.... it is the same as slicking.... I've heard it called both I was having an issue with a piece of leather. As I was beveling my knife cuts, other close-by beveling was popping back up, it was very frustrating. I happened to mention this when Jim Linnell was at the Cincinnati Tandy store. He immediately ask if I was glassing or slicking the leather. I also bought a glassing tool/slicker from Barry King .... great .... GREAT tool.... thank you Barry. It totally eliminated the problem. The procedure is to case the leather and then firmly pull the slicker over the leather from several directions while applying considerable pressure. This compacts the leather and also makes it smooth as a baby's.... well you know. CAUTION..... DON'T drop your glassing tool on a concrete floor!! Don't ask me how I know that. David Theobald

Cuda, There are two basic methods of making seats....Dry forming for spring mounted chopper seats. They have very thin padding. The seat is constructed with a front leather and a back leather. The back is riveted to the pan the the front laced to the back, sandwiching the padding between. This is how I make seats. Wet forming for the thicker seats and all frame mounted seats.. The seat front is laced to a thinner "side" piece. This front/side assembly is usually glued to the padding and the thin leather is wet and stretched around the padding and riveted to the back of the pan. Then the excess leather is cut from the back and the back is covered with felt to hide all of the cutting. This is how Roger makes his seats. The padding regardless of thickness should always be closed cell foam.... this stuff will not hold water if it gets wet. It is used in lawn furniture and boat seats. I hope this helps. Dave

As a solution to having the tooling become fainter when you re-wet; try glassing the leather first. This compacting of the leather will prevent the tooling from raising back up. I don't use refrigeration because I don't like it at all. I can re-wet leather a dozen times in tooling a complex piece and it doesn't become harder or more difficult to tool. Just a suggestion, this is what I do. David Theobald

The seat shape looked very similar to the Tiger/Phoenix that I completed recently. It is a pan manufactured with the same mounts as a West Eagle solo seat. I really like the full formed way you built it....almost like a saddle cantle with Pearls of Honor on it.... Very nice Dave

Regarding weights, it goes like this 1oz leather is 1/64" thick 2oz is 1/32" 3oz is 3/64" 4oz is 1/16" 8oz. is 1/8" Getting the idea? Now, why did someone decide to measure thickness using a unit of weight? That's the real question. Probably to confuse future leatherworking generations. Veg tanned is the only one you can tool or stamp. It has gone through the tanning process using plant matter to tan the hide.... the plant "stuff" is frequently oak wood chips, bark etc. Which is why you will see the word oak in many leather descriptions. Try getting a Tandy catalog and get a book on basic leatherwork. Most of your questions will be answered in there. David Theobald

I think we went through this discussion a couple weeks ago. I'm with Jim. Those round knives may be handy for some but for the work I do.... which is mostly 7 oz or 8 oz leather I rough out with a draw knife and cut to final shape with the Tandy scissors..... not your paper cutting things, the heavy duty leather cutting scissors. When I started leatherwork here in Cincinnati, there was no Tandy here, and no other leatherworkers around so I'm totally self taught. I formed many work habits that are not your standard way of doing things. But it seems to have worked out for me. You can see my work by clicking the banner at the bottom of this message. I make many other things not just bike seats, but that is what I sell so my site and posts are pretty much confined to the seats. For straight lines it is a metal straight edge and box cutter. So try a few tools and teach yourself the right way for you to do things.... you'll be much more comfortable working and less likely to leave a finger on the cutting table. Have fun with it. David Theobald

Very nice as always Shirley. Is that a pogo seat? It looks like the right shape. Nicely done .... beautiful lettering David Theobald

My pleasure John, Dave

I don't like to use anything acrylic, it can crack and flake off, just like neat lac. I use leather balm with atom wax....and sometimes Aussie conditioner. David Theobald

Very cool Roger, I like it. Dave Theobald

Welcome to another Buckeye! I'm looking forward to seeing your work here on LW. David Theobald

Thanks Howard, Much appreciated...I always like to have pictures from the show. Dave Theobald

To everyone, Thank you for all your kind words. They are much appreciated and mean a lot to me. I was thrilled when I received the news on the "Best of" plaque. It is my first and that makes it very special. Again, thanks for all the encouragement. The people of this site are terrific. David Theobald

JohnD Thanks for the kind words John, and I'm very glad to hear that last year's winner was pleased. that is always good to hear Dave Thanks Roger, you are one up on me. I've not met him in person. Dave

They are West Eagle pans Dave Theobald

Thanks all for the kind words.... It looks like this isn't one of my more popular seats with so few responses.... This will go in the mail to Mass. on Monday. David Theobald

Thanks for the response guys, the lettering is all cut by hand and beveled with Barry King bevelers. the pan has spring posts 7 " apart..... if it isn't a standard, it is pretty darn close to being universal spacing.....at least in my experience... some of Fab Kevins are a bit wider... but this is probably one of the most popular pans for a built-it-myself bike. Thanks for taking a look Dave

I just finished this for Grail at Knucklebuster.com. They have a bike show each year for the guys who build their own. This will be a door prize for one of the bikers who attend. This is my second year supporting them with a seat to give away. David Theobald

It sounds like your pictures may be too big Anne.... Just a guess. Dave Theobald

I just saw it Roger. Don't know how I missed it yesterday. Did you spring for a machine or is that all hand stitched? If it's hand done....my hands are hurting just from looking at it. Well done as always....your tooling is always so crisp and clean .... the backgrounding looks great. Dave Theobald

That is going to be beautiful Shirley, Love your tooling as always. Is that a pogo seat? Dave