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David

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Everything posted by David

  1. I finished lacing this project at about noon today. I'd like to have the finish well underway this evening because it is supposed to turn cold again tomorrow. Anyway, here is the USMC seat all laced up and ready to start finishing. Thanks for taking a look, the next post should be the last one for this seat. David Theobald
  2. Hey Gary, Thanks for taking a look at the USMC seat. When I am lacing I use short pieces of lace.... about 3 ft. They are much easier to handle. I pull every inch of lace through my fingers on each stitch to make sure it hasn't twisted. Then I hold my thumbnail FIRMLY up against the lace where it enters the hole, thus preventing it from twisting as it goes through the holes. This is probably the reason that I spend so much time lacing. Well, that and the fact that I don't use a needle....I just cut my lace to a point and fish it through the holes. The lacing on my seats is pulled very tight, which is another reason I don't use a needle. Dave Theobald
  3. Here is today's progress. I preped the seat pan, riveted the seat back to the pan, attached padding and tied the seat front to the seat back and started a bit of the lacing. I have a short working night tonight, so I may not post tomorrow. Dave Theobald
  4. No one has mentioned the Tandy product Saddle Lac. Any reason why? My Tandy manager claims it is more flexible than Neat Lac Dave
  5. I recently posted this on another thread, but here goes again. I do all of my carving with the Tandy 3/16" angle blade. I think they call it the filagree blade.... could be wrong on the name but not the size. David Theobald
  6. Of course you can add care tips; realizing of course that most bikers will throw them away. But at least you tried! Shipping, I use UPS insured for the selling value of the seat... don't forget the cost of the pan. I try to avoid putting the finished seat in anything plastic.... no bags, no peanuts.... and no newspaper.... you don't need ink transfer on your work. If the box is too big and you need take up space, I have wrapped the seat in clean shop rags.... and then you can use anything you choose for packing. But keep plastic and newsprint away from your seat. As far as the shipper, I use UPS and pack it myself. From Ohio to Arizona insured for $500 will cost me $18. I give that just as an example. Shipping time is usually 3 days. I've found them reasonable. David Theobald
  7. Here is where we stand today. It should begin to come together quickly now. Dave Theobald
  8. Hey Rob, I do all my cutting with a 3/16" angle cut blade sold by Tandy. If I'm doing finger cutting I use a !/4" Ruby blade. Thanks for taking a look at my post. Dave Theobald
  9. I started a new one this weekend for one of our returning local heros. He is starting a '48 panhead bobber project, that should look pretty sweet when done. Donny Loos is rebuilding the engine so it should run real good. Todays Pics enclosed David Theobald
  10. Very nicely done. You will use that for many years Dave Theobald
  11. David

    knives

    My favorites are the old tandy knives with the 1/2 barrel and the cast finger saddle. I'm always looking to buy those. Dave Theobald
  12. Great work Bob, loved all of them but the birds were my favorites Dave Theobald
  13. David

    Air Brush

    Everyone has been talking about airbrushes and compressors....DONT FORGET THE SPRAY BOOTH . You need to vent those fumes somewhere. If you have a small shop like mine, the fumes from spirit dye will fill your house. You really need to get rid of those fumes. The water based dyes are even more dangerous. Your body will eventually purge the denatured alcohol but the overspray from acrylic paints and dyes can and will stick with you forever. SO either invest in a small spray booth or count on spraying outside. And wear a mask!!! Dave Theobald
  14. Nice Josh, Like I told you earlier, I'd love to see what you'll be making when you're my age. Your work is going to be awesome. Great Job and Dave Theobald
  15. For the dyes and antiques, I use Fiebings. The dyes, I spray on with an airbrush...except for black which doesn't matter The antiques, I clean leather first with deglazer, then oil, wait 24 hours, dampen leather with water, and use anitque paste, I remove excess with a damp sponge. Dave
  16. Amaral, Any kind of oil will darken leather. Mink oil, neetsfoot oil, or Lexol they will all darken the leather. As far as water PROOFING.... I don't think anything makes the leather impervious to water. Except for NeatLac, but I hate that stuff. It can crack and peal off. All of the products you mentioned are better than nothing. Pecards is as good as any, I use Aussie Conditioner which is very similar to Pecards. As far as you staining products that you mention, I can't speak to them, most are the EcoFlow stuff that Tandy makes and I don't use it. Hope this helps. Dave Theobald
  17. Hi wintermte, Suede lace is good for decoration where absolutely no strength is required. Not good for use on anything related to motorcycles. Except maybe decoration on a vest or something. If you want to do motorcycle bags, kangaroo is the only thing to use. It is very tough stretches a bit but doesn't not break. Use wide lace for bags. 1/4".... As far a cutting lace.....what can I say....I use a LOT of lace but wouldn't waste my time trying to make it myself. I can make more money making the things I sell rather than making lace. I'm sure many will disagree with me, but I haven't talked to many leatherworkers who make their own....profitably. First of all, it is very tedious wsork and by the time you add up the cost of waste and the amount of time creating it, It is much more profitable to just buy the stuff. My opinion. Dave
  18. Roger!!! Buddy!!! Glad to hear from you! I was afraid that you had hung it up. I'm glad to hear that you have been busy. Great work as always. Love those bags! Keep in touch, friend, we need you here. David Theobald
  19. Really nice stuff. Love the construction of the Bible cover. The checkbook tooling is beautiful. Dave
  20. 41, You will be wet molding this seat so the assembly of the top to the sides is done before adding the entire thing to the seat pan with padding. Hope that helps. There is a tutorial here under motorcycle heading....check that out too it is the one by Roger Dave Theobald
  21. Hey Karl, You wanna sell that Tandy knife second from the left? Great idea. Dave Theobald
  22. Tom, Very nice looking, I need to remake a sling for a repro Revolutionary War Charleville flintlock. This would be a great starting place Dave Theobald
  23. Hey Mike, The saddle bag is indeed a veggie tanned bag, but it is a mass produced bag. That is going to be a project very soon, I want to create a line of bags to go with the seats. Thanks for checking it out. Dave Theobald
  24. Thanks for taking a look folks, I guess it turned out ok for a quick weekend seat. Dave
  25. I thought Jeff called it a 20; but it certainly could be a 21. I am just not sure. The eyelets are from Tandy. and come in three colors, chrome, brass and an antique brass. Thanks for checking out the seat and bike Dave Theobald
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