David

BRAVO Harley Chef, you got it exactly right. Dave

This is a laser cutting, it is being done by Woodcraft. The results are kind of iffy in my opinion; but then each to their own. Dave Theobald

To all you bikers out there. Christian Clayton, owner of Sucker Punch Sallys in Scottsdale Arizona passed away on Sept. 9. David Theobald

Have your local bike shop contact Custom Chrome. They should be able to order them for you. Dave

Hi Adam, Thanks for the kind words. I spray my Fiebings (alcohol based) dye with an airbrush. When dry, I wet the leather slightly and apply my Fiebings antiquing paste....wiping it off immediately. As for colors, I usually use Buckskin for my overall color and edge the seat with either Saddle Tan or Black. My antiquing paste color is called Sheridan. The next day I coat the seat as directed with Fiebings Leather Balm with Atom wax. Buff it with a towel when it is dry. That's it nothing complicated...no secrets. David Theobald

Be sure you charge enough especially for those saddle bags. Dave

I'm glad the tutorial work well for you. So sorry to hear about the fire....that has to be discouraging. Good work, keep it up. Dave Theobald

Unless you are very experienced with drying cabinets.....just leave it alone and let it dry! I dryed my first check book..... When dry it resembled a potato chip. I wouldn't advise it. Dave

You DO form around the foam.....it works rather well. David

If I tried that, I'd have a finger or two sewn in there too...... What kind of machine? Dave

Ok Kevin, now you're just showing off...... Huh, oh that's the name of this forum isn't it? It's beautiful buddy. Dave:

Boy, you surely wouldn't want anyone to see that wavy leather or the non rounded top......you better send that one to me so no ones sees it. I promise I'll hide it for you! Dave Theobald

Excellent work Jim....you must have some drafting experience. Dave Theobald

Interesting approach, Normally the pan would have been left flat and foam the thickness of your steel "skirt" would have been added to the top of the pan and formed to suit your butt. Then the seat top and leather skirt would have been formed over the pan, the leather skirt would have been wet and pulled tight and then drilled and riveted immediately. That way you wouldn't have to worry about drilling through your seat top (because there was an inch or so of padding under it) and you would have had a MUCH more comfortable seat under your butt. Dave Theobald..... Check out the seat tutorial by Roger Dave

Welcome Doc, I'm sure you're going to enjoy the place. You'll see some of my posts here and there on the site, I do mostly motorcycle seats. Dave Theobald

Lots of things dont function well with the newest IE upgrade. Not able to access messenger, settings etc. by clicking on my name. Instead the site takes me directly to my profile. Pictures no longer function as before. There are no longer previous and next buttons on the photos and you must click the back arrow to return to the article. Has anyone else experienced this? Dave Theobald Name: David Theobald UserName: David IP Address: 65.27.137.45 Email Address: patillserv@hotmail.com

Hey Bobby, I'm sure I've described this before, but I use tape to draw my patterns. I coat the bottom of the pan with tape , then add 3/8" to the pattern. The holes are laid out about 3/8" apart and bout 1/4" to 3/8" in from the edge. The back is then riveted to the pan, foam is added and beveled on the edge (3/4" foam HD neoprene from Foam and More 1925 W. Maple, Troy, MI 48084 1-248-284-0002). Tape is added over the foam up to the bevel. 3/8" is added to this pattern also. The center holes at top and bottom are punched in the top and tied to the foam/pan/seat back using the center holes in the seat back.....the remainder of the holes are traced onto the front by using the holes already punched in the back.. Not scientific, but it works. Ratio of Lexol to water....mmm how do I say this...... some to a lot. In other words it isn't critical. Some Lexol to a lot of water. You'll know what is right when you feel how much easier your knife pulls through the leather when you tool. Hope this helps. Dave

Thanks to all for the encouraging comments. Dave Theobald

Well, here it is. All finished and ready to send to my customer. I appreciate any and all comments. David Theobald

You are essentially building a new seat for your bike. Look at the tutorials that are pinned to the motorcycle and biker gear headings. There's one by Roger that should suit your needs. Dave Theobald

I buy all my seat leather from Wickett and Craig. They do have fine looking leather. Dave

I end it pretty much as the books advise. I run the last strands under 5 or 6 previous stitches on the back side. I can't imagine them coming out. Thanks for looking. Dave Theobald

Thanks for all the comments. Appreciated as always. Some progress has been made on this build. Dave Theobald