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chasman52

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Everything posted by chasman52

  1. chasman52
    Thanks you for posting. when I was looking up this youtube thread for your Pfaff1245 I realized I also wasn't threading my 1445 take up through both holes. I'm not sure that will help me. Pay attention the part about the tension disks . He goes around the post. It seems logical.. Hope this helped
  2. chasman52
    Nice clean workmanship there.
  3. chasman52

    HI

    i own a 1445 as well and I'm close to solving my issues with it. Did you solve yours?

    20170515_125353.jpg

    20170515_125559.jpg

  4. chasman52
    here an update with: 1.the right thread, 2. needle 3. tension , 4.bobbin wound correctly, 5.the machine adjusted.better. Setting up is very hard. Thanks to all
  5. chasman52
    Please let us know if that works, because I like guns, and all the stuff that goes with them. So, for me it is a good reason for a new toy
  6. chasman52
    Thanks again Adrils, The D point was a request from the wife for a less wavy stitch( I like a good LR stitch) Madhatter, I've done exactly what you warned me against more than once. Thanks for all the advise!!
  7. chasman52
    Thanks, ArildS I didn't notice the knots , but I didn't like the look this stitch. Now I know why
  8. chasman52
    Try adjusting the bobbin tension. The smaller 92 will may slip past the settings that you've always used for the larger 138 thread
  9. chasman52
    It's been a battle, but I think I've got it on the run. The question is can I get it better. It marked up this harness leather pretty good. I know there's a lot of operator errors. So let the critic begin. this was on : PFAFF 1445 w a clutch motor reduced 4:1, but the clutch will not let me creep along. 8 OZ. Harness W&C( good stuff) 207 on top and 138 below all polyester bonded with a 134 35D needle ,~ a 4mm stitch
  10. chasman52
    Wow , I like the workmanship you put into it a lot. You might be able to use a stiffer/thicker leather on the back to help with the fit. I like the molding. Not too much , not too little. Post up the next one when you figure out what style it will be.
  11. chasman52
    Awesome Workmanship! 1st class
  12. chasman52
    Sonydaze,I tried the 138/138 Black/white and it didn't go any better. A close look at the hook showed the thread catching at the needle plate./ Hook tab area. I polished the groves in the needle plate and Hook Tab away and stropped the finish. This helped a little. What seemed to work best was a fresh bobbin using the same thread as the top thread... I have now used 207/207 @ 24 and 138/138 @ 23. the 207 thread.worked well , but I don't see why? Any one had this problem before? I doubt my problem is unique .
  13. chasman52
    Sonydaze, Good point I'll try that first.
  14. chasman52
    Nuttish: Didi you solve your problem? I'm having similar problems
  15. chasman52
    The top thread is being pulled very tight over the hook assembly as the thread is coming around the hook. The thread pops around the hook . The check spring will flutter as this happens The hook timing appears to be advanced. I've been looking for UWE's video on this very situation, but can't seem to find it........found it
  16. chasman52
    I'll check harder for that, Thanks SandyT
  17. chasman52
    This is my first machine, and I have tried to solve this problem for days . On soft thick leather I don't seem to have this problem , but even on 5 oz Veg I always run into trouble. The top thread will break through the bottom intermittently. I've maxed out the presser feet pressure, and increased the top tension until I get loops on top. Is this operator error? what can cause this? In this picture I'm using 207/138 polyester bonded top/bottom with a new 134/35 24 LR needle on 8 oz. veg
  18. chasman52
    Really sharp workmanship!
  19. chasman52
    Nice work, I use that pattern too. It's a comfortable carry holster
  20. chasman52
    You have a point. I appreciate all the help.
  21. chasman52
    The pre-made only give a 3 to 1 ratio. Not sure that's enough for me, but it maybe for a servo. You'll get more torque. I'm not sure how much more though I paid out $65 + belts and bolts.
  22. chasman52
    It's only 9 and I'm getting hungry. I'm pricing parts to make a speed reducer . $64 + mounting hardware & belts.
  23. chasman52
    LOL you guys are telling me to spend some money if I want to get this right. This machine is a beast. I'll at least try out a reducer before I go at the servo. I see the Consew 1000 servo on amazon. Is it any good? I'll have a #3 to go please
  24. chasman52
    Thanks BRmax, So, is it better to get a reducer( two pulleys ) first, or straight to a servo? A lot of cleaning! I got in new parts on the tension assembly. it's seems to be working
  25. chasman52
    This is my very first sewing machine I'm not sure this is right. I can't believe how damn fast it is. I can't get a straight line or stop it in time. How the *&^% do you all control these machines I had to count all my fingers this first time I lit it up! Anyway,I want to post up some pic's of the stitches in 16OZ I've been able to do after two days for tweaking. If someone could take a look at these pic's and advise on what I should do next. Much appreciated! I did get an owners manual and the parts list. If someone here can advise me on how to post them I'd be happy to. Each is a little larger than the 1.46mb allowed I need the machine to do totes, belts and (hopefully) holsters. I got to slow it down. What servos do the best job.
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