Ian

I had to do a removable P-pad for a seat I did and only had a couple of hours to do it (including delivering it) I took some pictures as I was doing it in case it would be useful. I used 4/5 chap for the top and 2/3 oz for the sides, but I've done them like this with veg too. Here goes: 1 Cut a piece of ABS - this is 3/16 2 Bend the curve into the plastic over a flame 3 position the suction cups and drill holes to take a small rivet. Glue washers over the holes on the top side

Here's a long shot suggestion. There's a guy who sells leather on Ebay - goes by the name 'Uncle George'. He has access to a splitter that can do full hides. He told me he'd split any leather sides I had for $5.00. You'd have to browse through Ebay listings to find him - he always has a ton of stuff up on there under Leathercraft-hides. If you find him, drop him an email

Very nice looking site - By the way, I like the 'hammered copper' look on the flap of the one bag you have on there. Ballpeen hammer?

Tom, can't add anything that hasn't already been said, but that pattern is beautiful!

Dave, your booth looks outstanding. Quite a bit of work to get all that stock together. Excellent!

Thanks again. I just heard some more good news - The bike is going to be in 'The Horse' in October and then again in 'Easyriders' so I'll get a double whammy. I'll be able to say "as seen in Horse and ER" LOL BTW I did that seat 18 months ago and saw it agin yesterday for the first time since I put it on. It looks 100 times better now with the wear and fading. http://www.printroom.com/ViewGalleryPhoto....amp;image_id=80

Corey, I use whatever upholstery leather I have on hand (the picture is of some phony croc embossed leather I have)- using spray adhesive. I cut the lining away from the edge where there is going to be a seam. I'm thinking of doing future bags with vinyl lining.

Thanks everyone! Not sure when the issue is coming out. I used to sell Easyriders in my shop and they would send me them 2 months before the cover date, so, I'm guessing October. I tell you what, I miss having the shop/store so much, I'm planning on re-opening next spring. Was the best time of my life and I should never have given it up. This tiny event doesn't seem like much, but it's enough to get my head spinning on plans for the new place - just what I needed!! Ian

One of my seats is making it into Easyriders magazine, with credit given. I got the photographers pics today - unfortunately the seat doesn't show too well, but, I'm happy!! Here's one of the pictures going in the magazine and one I took in the shop

I tell you what I did once. Bought a ready made leather wallet at Marshalls and used the insert from that. I think they were $8 on sale at the time. Cheaper than buying an insert.

Thanks Art, that has been the biggest issue with my machine. I use a center foot that I've ground down pretty good, but still occionally have a marking problem - not, of course with veg tan, but the stuffed leathers, it drives me nuts. I'm getting a new business set up right now, so Artisan will definitely be an addition.

Once again, Leatherworker.net has read my mind and given the answers before I asked them. I'm looking to get another heavy stitcher and was wondering about the Toro. I think all my questions have been answered today, except, one small one: How much of an imprint does the foot leave on the leather top and bottom? I'm speaking mostly harness and bridle.

Has anyone tried one of these. Actually, I'm looking for the bench top kind with the lever handle, but was wondering about this gadget http://cgi.ebay.com/CS-Osborne-Line-24-Sna...1QQcmdZViewItem

I had the same problem there. A customer had given me a copy of his log to carve into something. I took it to Staples to enlarge on the xerox machine and was told the same thing. Forget about explaining to the clerk - he wouldn't budge, I ended up tracing the logo and ten going back and had my tracing enlarged. Now I don't ask the clerk - just go in and used the self service machines. Ian

A bridle I made for this old ex-racer standardbred

It wasn't a matter of 'gobbling up' Mast could no longer operate at a profit and Weaver purchased the company.

I've bought from Weaver for 15 years. You can't beat their prices on hardware anywhere, especially if you buy 100+ of any item. Since some of the other suppliers carry the exact same items as Weaver, I suspect that they too, buy from Weaver and add their own mark-up. I've found their shipping to be fast and relianble as well. As far as thier tack products go, they are fairly rough in quality, and given their access to materials at way below wholesale cost, you wouldn't be able to compete with them price wise. Not to mention that Menonite workers probably work much cheaper than I would like to work. Still, they don't present their products as fine leatherwork, and when push comes to shove, I'd rather that affordable products are coming from here rather than India or China. I can't think of any product that I could produce more cheaply than a factory could. It's just the way it is. So, I have nothing bad to say about Weaver. Ian

Josh, here's one I did, plus a cobra strap and a red dyed python strap Ian

Clay, I want to try some leaves after seeing your tutorial - just great - Does anyone know of and patterns I could find online for leaves without having to buy a book? Thanks Ian

I got a few from Thailand off Ebay - got them in a week. The price was a lot less than I could get from US suppliers and the quality was excellent

Now THAT'S an excellent idea - I never thought of that. After all, if people buy a band with a face that looks good, why would they need to change it? It sure would make straps simpler and more streamlined with the band attached directly.

Since you are using very small pieces, if you have a bench-top skiver, you could split some leather down to 1oz and get the fine suede nap with some super-fine sandpaper.

I would bet that gold could be used very easily on leather. After all, there are bibles that are hundreds of years old with gold leaf on the covers and page edges. It might be that the regular size used on glass or other hard surfaces is not sufficient. So finding a more durable size and top finish might be the issue. I haven't done much gilding, but I imagine that another medium that holds it's tacky state would work, maybe even Barge, but there are other glues that are specifically made to stay tacky for a long time. Regarldess, you need to lay the gold over a colored background to get a deep gold finished look. I have laid gold right onto tacky oil based paint.

Dude, plug it in, throw a piece of leather under and check it out. Those cutters are pretty expensive aren't they? Boy, the cool things I could do if I had one - conchos, belt buckles, stamps - the possiblities are endless. I'm very jealous.

I have a Tippman Aerostich which gave me no end of grief until I finally got it adjusted. Now, I like it a lot, except for the noise from the compressor. Don't think I'd like the Boss, because I need both hands for a lot of what I sew and cranking the handle seems like a slow process. Ian