Ian

Tom, thanks for the good words. I'd like to take credit for handstitching, but I did that on the machine. Actually, I haven't done anything but minor handstitching since my harness making days - barely even have callouses on my hands anymore.

Here's my resume in a nutshell: Born in Tanzania, Came to the United States from South Africa at 12. Left home at 16 to groom for a circus bareback riding act - spent the next 20 years on and off the road training horses and dogs for circus work (also performed in a trapeze act) , and travelled to almost all states, South America and Canada. In between and on the off season, I did every job imaginable, from bartender to dockworker to juvenile corrections. I operated a private dog training business for a few years. Learned harness making and operated a leather shop doing repairs and custom work and also a fairly large retail area selling motorcycle goods. Now I work for a mega wealthy dude, driving, making appointments and travel plans and doing a lot of interesting travel to variouys gambling meccas. That is 3 days a week. The other 4 I have my custom leather business. That's it.

Here's a quicky job I did last night. I saw a picture of one and wanted to give it a shot - works good

I'm pretty happy with how this turned out. At first I was dissapointed that he didn't want braided edges, but, now I'm liking the stiched seam a lot

Rob, that's Tandy's 294-03 and the small one that goes with it

Looks fine, Tom - of course the heart is cool, but the overall shape of the necklace is very classy looking indeed. I'm picturing it hanging from a round cord with some silver ferrules and clasp.

Dave, that doesn't work - I just tried vinigar on Friday. It left a orange corrosion like stuff on the undersides of the rivets and didn't do much to the shiny finish. When I was much younger I had a job in an art gallery polishing bronze and brass sculpture. It seemed like they tarnished overnight, same thing when I was using brass hardware in my harness making days. But trying to get a fast tarnish on brass when I want it seems near impossible. Ohio travel Bag has high quality antique brass rivets. I think that's the best route - buy them in the finish you want

I'm going to make this one with sides and top stitch the top to the sides. Yeah, I know, more often than I'd like to admit, I spend a ton of time in getting the pieces ready for the construction part and then making some stupid mistake in the last five minutes of putting it together. The seat I finshed last week came down to being about an 1/8 inch off center when I laced it together. The customer was pleased, but all I could see was that mistake. I swear to God, I've been depressed all week over that one. Here it is molded to fit the top - you can see the stitching groove

Thanks Matt - if customers only knew how much time goes into their stuff. I don't know if I'm just slow or what, but there's about 10 hours into it so far No Tom, he wanted black, but I'm in my antiqued tan obsession right now, so I was able to talk him out of the black Appreciate the complement Dave. I remember a couple of years ago when someone asked if I did tooled seats and I said "hell yeah". All I had was a handful of old Tandy tools someone had given me and I didn't have a clue how to use them. I haven't added many tools to the handfull and just make do with what I have, but now I have the tooling addiction going full blast, I think I might start investing in some better stuff.

Tina, that is excellent - I've always cut out the design and then stitched afterwards, risking sewing off the edge. Think I'll try your way. As far as the original question, the design on factory made jackets is cut with a die, although Vanson Leather, who make motorcycle racing suits use a water jet to cut the pattern pieces and inlays - quite amazing to see.

Had to take a break for a coffee and smoke and to get my hand uncramped from doing this background. Glad that part is done

Periodically your question comes up in regards to black dye. I can honestly say that I have never had a problem with uneven black, and I have made hundreds of black items (colors are a different story), and I just give the leather a wipe down with alcohol and I use Fiebings oil dye. One thing is not to skimp on the dye - really slather it on and do a second coat if you want.

Very nice looking belts - the filigree ones are unique, and I'm guessing, quite a bit of work to cut out.

Looking sharp, Dave - I've never done one of those, but wondered how they were made. Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for the information - and thanks, Troy for taking the time to sketch out the layout - also the folks in the chat room who went out of their way to give me tips. I ended up using the braid called 'S' type in Grant's book. Now that I have the braiding bug, I need to get some more books. It never fails to amaze me how helpful people here are - thanks again.

I'd go with bridle leather too, for the durablity and the drum dying process that makes the color more stable.

While New England is not a huge beef cattle producing area, there are many dairy farms. I have heard quite a few stories lately of dairy farms sending their herds to slaughter because the feed prices are so high that they cannot produce milk at a profit anymore. Undoubtedly the beef cattle issues will effect leather prices. On the other hand, I heard a story that 2 years ago auto makers were purchasing half the US output of cow hides. Maybe the lower recent car sales (along with reduced sales in the furniture industries) will help balance out leather prices. I don't know if leather jacket and garment sales are being affected by the poor economy (and it seems reasonable that they are), but that too will have an effect on leather prices. Who knows, with all of that, perhaps prices will come down.

I had a similar experience sharpening a splitter blade. It happened so fast, I'm not sure what I did other than maybe I was holding the bade at a bad angle - it caught onto one of the slots in the disk (what are those slots for anyway?)and spun the dern thing so close to my face, I could feel the wind. I still use it for small tools, but the near miss scared me enough that I now take the splitter blade out to be sharpened.

Looking good. If I could offer a suggestion for the future. When you do the P-pad, the construction is like a box, so you don't get any wrinkles or folds. If you make your pattern acurately, there is no need to wet the leather to fit it - it will fit like a glove dry. Over-all, it looks real nice - you must be very pleased

Fiebings Light Brown - (though it is dark) - Neatsfoot - Bag Kote - Aussie Thanks - actually those pogo seats are real comfortable - also, it has an inch of neoprene under the cover

First Police seat i've done in Veg Tan (done a bunch in chrome). I'd think it's one of the hardest shapes I've covered so far. It's 6/7oz, but I think next time I'll use thinner to make molding easier. Also used a ton of lace - I'm guessing I cut about 50 feet.

First, excuse my ignorance of the parts of a western saddle, but here goes. What is the braid that is sometimes used to join the two halves of the jockey (if that's the right term)? I've also seen it used to join saddlebags. I only have the Bruce Grant 'Leather Braiding' book to reference, and it looks like it might be the braid shown in Plate 74, but that appears to be more open than the braid I'm thinking of. Any suggestions? Thanks for any help Ian

That is RICH - awesome!

if it was me doing 50 belts, I'd order the thickness I wanted from Weaver, and have them cut and edge the straps. They only charge about 11 bucks per side and it saves a ton of time. For a bit more, they'll crease them too.

Great color - a quality looking bag. By the way, where did you get the back attachment bracket? I've been looking unsuccessfully, and hate to tear apart another bag to get one.