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Randy Cornelius

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Everything posted by Randy Cornelius

  1. I guess I got suckered as I ordered a gallon of it too.
  2. Weaver Leather has a new product called "Leather Firmer" it is discribed as being used to firm up leather for use in cases, holsters, ect. and also be used on belly leather to make is usable. Has anyone used this product and if so could you give me some feedback as to how well it done. I was told on the phone that you have to dip the leather in the liquid and let dry. I forgot to ask if it needs to be dyed before or after using it. Randy
  3. 1st, replace the needle with a new one. I have found that most problems can be solved with a new needle. Then look for burrs on the shuttle hook. Take it out of the machine and run your fingers across the end of the hook, there should be no burrs. If so sand them smooth with some 1000 or finer emery cloth or wet / dry sandpaper. Most of the time a frayed thread is caused by a burr or something like that. Randy
  4. I would agree with you, up to a point. But a good carver with a tandy knife will will be a great carver with a high quality knife. Stamping tools are the same, I have some tandy's that just dont have the details like a King tool will have. So yes, I agree he needs to learn how to use the tools he has until he gets to the point he wants to spend some money, I tell my students that the first good tool they should buy is a good swivel knife, but they have to learn to use a cheep one first. I have some Snap On tools in my tool box, but that don't make me a good mechanic! lol Randy
  5. Here are the pictures of the machine also is pictures of the attachments I have, there are two feet, one double and one single right, a material guide and a small plate. Any questions just ask. Contact me my pm. Randy
  6. I have my Artisan Toro 3000 for sale. I have bought a bigger machine and just don't have the room for any more machines. I have had this machine for 4 years and it works very good. It just came out of the shop with a full tune up and all timing set. It has the servo motor, stand with rollers and I will throw in several bobbins and needles to get you started. Has the manual (it's cheesey but it's there) and a video. I will not ship as I cannot crate it.This machine weights about 200 lbs. I live south of Kansas City and will help with delevery and set up. I will also provide instructions and help as far as operations of the machine to the new owner. I am asking 1500.00 for the machine. My new machine will not be here until after July 20th so this machine will not be available until after that time. I will post pictures in the next couple days but its just like the new Toro 3000 machines advertised. I also have several attachments that I will include and will list those later also. This machine is great for sewing belts, wallets, holsters,chaps and all types of saddle and harness work. This machine will sew up to 3/4 inch of leather, sew bio and web. It can use as small as 138 thread up to 346 thread. Contact me off list and we can talk. Randy Cornelius
  7. Can't tell too much from the picture but they look like western snaps that are used on shirts. They should be available at a fabric store. RC
  8. It's really hard to beat Don Butler! Looks like you done a fine job. Maybe more detail in the scrols and stems but that's nit pickin' Randy
  9. The last one I had I sent to Baties Tree Co they basicly reproduced the tree using the old one for around 200.00 plus shipping if I recall. P.O.BOX 327 346 S. Commercial Welch, OK 74369 (918) 788-3686 Tel (918)788-3195 Fax
  10. You family is in my prayers.
  11. I just re-built the seat to my goldwing with chap leather and it has worked out quite well. Just be sure to give it a good protective coating to help with the water spots when it rains. I went over all of mine with Neat Lac that gives it a good moisture protection.
  12. They simpley don't kill mules anymore to get mule hide. The closest thing is pearl apron splits is what I use. Be sure to wet the leather real good before you start so it will srink to fit so to speak. There are as many ways to wrap a horn as there are saddlemakers who do it. I have seen them split the leather and loop it over the horn and start wraping that way. I tac mine down under the gullet and bring it up high on the horn and start wrapping down and bring it back under the gullet and nail both ends down good. I always use white glue to glue it down as I wrap, that way you can clean up any that squeeses out. If you are right or left handed wrap accordingly so you don't unrape it when you dally. If you have some bulges you can work them out with your chinaman or choke strap. Wish I had some pictures. Sure some of the others will give you some more tips. Randy
  13. The International Internet Leathercrafters' Guild, Inc. (IILG) is honored to host the 45th Annual IFoLG (International Federation of Leather Guilds) 2011 Conference and Trade Show in Albuquerque, New Mexico. Leather Fiesta! - October 13-16, 2011 Here is the link to view all the details about the show, hotel info and register for classes and Exhibits. http://www.iilg.net/ifolg2011/index.html
  14. Steve is a great guy to deal with. He is willing to help with almost any machine question, even when the maufacturer won't return you phone calls. I had a machine that I bought when steve was still with _____ and when I had a problem they would not even return a phone call, I called steve and he walked be through a complete re timing of my machine. No matter what he sells I would buy from him, just for his customer service. Randy
  15. I always go over the piece a couple times to make sure to get an even coat. If it streeks a little buff it. I have not had any problems with the leather I use. Make sure you use plenty on the sponge so it gets a good coat to start with. That way it soaks into the leather.
  16. Sounds like Barbors Linnen thread. ???
  17. Forgot how different those Orthoflex saddles are made, I have never had one in my shop so I cannot tell you how they come apart. Sorry. Randy
  18. Enjoyed your articule, lots of information. I just got done re-covering my corbin seat on my 1500 Goldwing. Not sure I ever want to do another one. RC
  19. It looks like from your pictures the strings go through the tree. The easy way is to remove the skirts or at least loosen them by pulling the nails.You have a couple screw back conchos on each side. You will need a concho remover for these or use pliers and wrap the concho with cloth or something to keep from damaging them. There will be two screws inside the gullet area. You can cut out the old strings, remove the conchos and the jockies. Now that you have it all torn down is a good time to do a good cleaning and oiling. If the woolskin is still good, you can split it where the strings go through the skirts and pull the old strings out and install the new ones. Then glue the wool back down where you made the cuts. Some I have seen just pull the new strings through the wool and leave them exposed, your choise. Pull the new strings through the tree and out the topside, tighten and install the jockies, conchos and do the bleed knots and install the nails and screws you removed. Hope this helps. RC
  20. If you like the color of HO then order the russet skirting from W&C and have it split to your desired thickness. The skirting will be large sides where as the tooling leather tends to be some what smaller hides and has the paler color.
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