Randy Cornelius

Brass or Stainless would be the best material with leather as they both will not rust, rust is the thing that leather does not like.

I for one think you did good for your 1st or 2nd project, and if you like it then that is all that really counts. With practice comes improvement. Like you said you need to do better with the edging. Get an edger and take off the square corners, then dress it up with some 80 grit sandpaper,(this makes the fibers stand up) wet the edge and run a bar of saddle soap over them. (this mades the fibers lay down in all one direction) Then burnish them with a piece of canvas or old blue jean materal with cream saddle soap on it. Then re dye and use something to seal the edge, I would also suggest you get some lighter weight leather to make your interiors with. Or you can buy them pre made from Springfield leather for around 8-9.00 apiece. I would suggest some 2-3oz pig or calf skin for liners. You did a good job on the sewing but might suggest some smaller thread next time. You are off to a real good start. Keep up the good work. RC

You sold the machine you needed. The Juki 440 clones are one of the best all around machines. You might get by with a flat bed machine if you don't sew anything over 8=10 oz. I think I can get like 1/2 inch under my foot but it is all it wants to sew.

I'll have to go out to the shop and get my weaver cataloge, I know I order mine from weaver, just got to look at the stock number. Will get back with you later. RC

I would say it was made by any number of saddle makers that was under contract with Sear Robuck in the 50's at the time. Most were not marked as they were most likely bought through sears mail order at the time. But that is just a guess. RC

Leather Wranglers has a good video on thier web site on how to sharpen a swivel knife that can explain it better than any. I would have to agree that the blade was not sharpe, leather had something to do with it and that the knife was dragging in the leather. RC

Any water or lacqor basised wood finish you find at the home center will work for a edge dressing after you slick your edges. You can get several small containers 1/2 pint and try several to see which ones work the best. That way you dont' have to order 32 oz of laquer and pay shipping.

I have never seen a stingray hide long enough to make a full lenght belt, are you splicing it in the rear or how are you piecing it together for a longer belt?

I have made western rigs for a 500 S&W, 454 Casuall and 44 mags before and the process is the same as with a single action. With heavy guns like the ones mentioned I bump up the leather to 10-12 oz instead of the 8-10 I usuall use and go with 2-1/4 in wide belt with heavy buckles and line and stitch everything.

I use a program called FF Inventory Pro. My web designer turned me onto it. It like accounting software for dummies. Real user friendly does inventory and invoices etc and a whole lot more. And it did not cost much, under 200.00 and you can put it on as many computers as you want. If anyone wants more info I will get it tomarrow but the snow is about a foot deep getting to the shop right now so it will have to wait until the morning. Randy

I kept mine for 2 years, never used it again and finally sold it. My advice is to sell it and never look back..

It really helps to have a very solid surface to set rivits, I use a heavy piece of steel plate under the rivit. Also when you get your rivit set with the setter, take your hammer and tap around the rivit top to smooth it out. You can also take a dremmel tool with a smooth sanding disk to smooth it out if the hammer does not help. Helps to have a good set of cutters when cutting off the top prior to setting. Hope this helps. Randy

My suggestion would be to buy a good swivel knife first, then the better bevelers., etc.

Leather Machine Company makes a nice affordable clicker, Check them out or just call Steve.

I have a pattern for a cigarette case that has a pocket on the side for a bic size lighter, would that be what you are looking for?

I read this thread this morning and sent Peter a message on FB and here is his contact info on his book right from his message. My coloring book and Australian book is available only from me. They are $20 and $15.00 plus $7.00 for priority mail. I may be contacted at email: petergmain@msn.com My email address is also my account name for PayPal. There you go..... Randy

I agree with what has been said. It's the Tandy leather and the ecoflow stuff. Call Springfield leather and get a belt blank from them, Use regular oil dye to dye it and then use something like Bag or Tan Kote to finish it with and you will do fine. RC

What you have is a very nice older Billy Cook cutter. I would not try roping off that saddle. The horn was just not made for that saddle to be roped off of. RC

I have had several brands of round knives over the years. Always looking for the best one for cutting HO leather. That is some of the toughest stuff to cut out there but I love the way it tools and molds for what I do. I would like to reccomend a custom knife maker, Robb Gray from Seattle Wa. I bought one of his knives at the Denver IFLoG show last year and have since bought another one. They are in the 175.00 price range but well worth the investment. He has a web site, www.graycloud-designs.com I still have several CSO knives but do 90% of my cutting with my new knifes. Randy

I think a #23 chisle point needle, (thats what you want for sewing leather) is the smallest they make for that machine. That is what I use for 138 and 207 thread. I use a #25 for 346.

First I would try Oxyclic Acid, 2 tablespoons to quart of water. To see if it is of organinc base. If that does not do much you can have a good guess that it is then an oil of some type and then use mineral sprits or something like that. But that will take any finish off and it will have to be refinished. I would try leather stripper, you can get it through several suppliers. Strip the whole seat down and then refinsh or if needed dye to a darker color to hide the stain that remains. RC

David, Great post, I have never done a bike seat but always wanted to. You remember I tried to get you to come to NM to the show. Anyway great job your the best. Is that a standard double loop lace job or some other pattern? Randy

I usually use the OA wash after I get done tooling. The leather is almost dry then. I use HO leather and I have not had any problems with the extra water doing anything to the tooling. I don't use it on every piece I do, just the ones that have a bloch or dis coloration of some sort. Use about 2 tablespoons to a quart of water. I use a sponge and be sure to wear rubber gloves. Be sure to wash out the sponge or it will eat it up in a day or so. RC

I always had good luck with them, but I have not ordered anything recently.

Herman Oak, only thing I will make holsters out of.