UKRay

Sorry guys I may have been a little misleading with my initial post. I wanted to use a thicker thread but I couldn’t get my machine to work with the thicker thread and have been trying to get it back where I started with the ‘regular’ thread. I’m doing something wrong but it definitely isn’t the threading of the machine. I have refilled the bobbin with the regular size thread and re-threaded the whole machine according the photographs I took when it was first set up so I guess that just leaves the tensioner. Both threads are pulled up tight to form the stitches and the stitches look perfect – then it misses two together – or actually, I guess it only misses a single stitch as one hole makes two stitches if you see what I mean – I think I must have it too tight. Any thoughts on my thinking? LOL Oh yes, the needle size is the same as when I started and it worked okay then,

Let me know what you are going to get rid of in a PM, Tony. Cheers, Ray

I recently tried to change the thickness of the tread I use on my ancient BUSM Pilot sewing machine (I wanted to use a thicker thread). Suffice to say it wasn't a success and I am now trying to reverse engineer the process... without complete success as the machine now stitches perfectly for about 5 or 6 inches then misses two stitches and then carries on stitching perfectly. It keeps on doing this - 5-6 inches and 2 missed stitches and I am at my wits end trying to find a solution. I am sure it is something to do with the thread tension but I can't work out how to fix it - any ideas? My feelings are I may have the top tension a tad too tight - I don't seem to have any obvious adjustment on the bobbin although I could be wrong about this - I have tightened and loosened but can't find the optimum point - Any suggestions would be gratefully received - and before anyone suggests it, I'm not going to buy an Artisan machine just yet 'cos I simply can't afford it but the temptation is definitely there...

Thanks for showing the picture of your Pearson, Grumpy. Its great to see the pictures of those grand old machines looking so well kept and cared for - I wonder how many have actually survived? Some of your machines are monsters, Steve. That epoch eyelet setter must weigh nearly a half a ton! My workroom is upstairs in my house and it nearly kills me getting any kind of machine up there - I wouldn't even try with some of yours! Amazing. I am a machine enthusiast and although I wouldn't be without them, I do have a few machines that don't get as much use as I expected when I bought them - mainly because they all take time to set up and it is sometimes quicker to do a job by hand. How much use do your machines actually get?

Interesting looking stuff, Sandy. As an enthusiastic but lapsed re-enactor I'd really appreciate it if you could help me to understand the SCA a little better... It seems to me from your photographs that gear from almost any period (including gear that doesn't fit any particular style or period) can be worn along with very modern protective gear (knee pads etc). Would this be right? The heraldry is also a tad confusing to me as it doesn't appear to match anything found in 'real life'.(i.e. genuine heraldry) Would that be true? Having looked at a number of SCA websites recently the costumes seem to be a mixture of well researched and executed items and stuff that was put together for the weekend - this isn't a criticism as we get the same thing in re-enactment here in the UK - is there a kind of 'authenticity police' which stops the wilder stuff from happening or is it entirely down to the wearer?

J.T Batchelor in London, England definitely has what you need, Ed - it depends if you want to go that far for them... PM me if you need more details.

Ed, just find the address of your local dive club. One of the members will almost certainly make double skinned neoprene wetsuits and this is exactly the same stuff. I made a few wetsuits in the dim and distant past by butt jointing the sections and gluing with contact adhesive. As Ttownfire says, it can be a bit of a problem to stitch but we just used an industrial zigzag machine and took our time. I suspect you will make a better job than I did <grin!>. If you get stuck for a source in Europe just send me a PM and I'll try to dig up a few old contacts for you.

I'd really appreciate any leads to a UK tannery or leather merchant that can supply me with hair-on deer skins. I'm also looking for a good supplier of big fluffy sheep skins - all colours. I'd very much like to find someone who works with antler to make up some stuff for me - a PM would be kind if anyone has any leads. Thanks, Ray

I see we have at least one entrant for the 2008 Leatherworker.net prize for literature... A hugely extravagant turn of phrase, John, but very welcome nonetheless. Forget the leatherwork - you ought to be a writer! LOL

That lot ought to keep you out of mischief for an hour or two, Karl. Sadly, I didn't realise you were collecting scrap metal, I've got a garden full of it.... LOL (from the man with one of the ugliest sewing machines in the world)

That is a truly outstanding piece of work. Congratulations Crystal!

Absolutely, Johanna - I'd be delighted to see it there!

Thanks for the kind words, Tom. I have edited the Knol to cover your suggestions - I hope you approve. I also gave your excellent Etsy shop a plug! As internet sales get more difficult - with more and more sellers and less disposable cash - taking every opportunity to promote your website makes good business sense. I am exploring a number of promotional ideas right now and will gladly share the results if anyone is interested. For what it is worth, one of my 'tricks' gave me a 500% increase in visitors last week... no really, it is absolutely true! I was getting around 150 visitors a day to my little blog site and by adding it to Stumbleupon's database I momentarily lifted my visitor numbers beyond my wildest dreams and picked up seven new customers. Okay, the stats haven't stayed impossibly high but they have remained a little higher than they were before. I'm looking for the next trick now! Glad you approve Rick. Thanks for the endorsement.

This week I wrote down my ideas on marketing handcrafted leather and published it as a Google Knol - not for any particular reason other than I wanted to try out this rather exciting new technology. Here is the link: http://knol.google.com/k/ray-hatley/market.../uhfjt5pdr2mt/2# I'd appreciate your thoughts and comments, but please give me a minute to hide under my bench! LOL Ray

I wonder if it has anything to do with clam shells? - just a thought...

I certainly am, cousin!

If you get nipped I guess you have your answer!

I definitely want a wooly hat like Karl's...

I found it interesting to note that I have re-visited and re-learned pretty nearly everything I ever knew about leatherwork since joining this forum and thoroughly enjoyed the process. Mind you, I'm pretty sure some rude folk would have it that I knew diddly-squat when I got here... The forum is almost a work in progress as you re-acquaint yourself with stuff you might not have touched for a while. Topics change fairly regularly and by helping others and discussing their problems you can add greatly to your knowledge and skill base. In answer to the question, CJ, you can study anything you want as it doesn't matter how old you are - the important thing is wanting to learn. Enjoy the forum and welcome. Ray

As a consenting adult, you are entitled to stick whatever you like in the jaws of your clam, fellah! Just be careful 'cos they can give you a very nasty nip...

Wotcha and welcome H, I'm certain you will enjoy your time here -just remember to post pictures on a regular basis as I sometimes have trouble with big words... Cheers, Ray from Ludlow in excessively rainy Shropshire

Glad you got it sorted out!

Sorry to join this thread so late, but I have been working away for a week - I'm sure I don't have to tell you how nice it is to get home again!I've been using a bevelled glass slicker for some time and have got some excellent results with it. I have never used plexiglass but see no reason why that shouldn't work just as well - although I do like the weight and feel of my bevelled glass version.I use it before tooling bags and belts to get a nice slick surface. It reduces those lumps and bumps that tend make a stain job uneven. I bought mine from a retiring saddler in Ireland and got a detailed list of instructions with it that were written in a very old fashioned way - they were so amusing I kept them for years... Essentially the idea is to use plenty of water to lubricate the surface of the leather - I go one step further these days as I use my casing water which (since our discussion about casing a few months back) now has a healthy shot of leather conditioner that adds a lot to the slippery effect. Having soaked the leather and made sure the surface is nice and soft - about the same sort of soft that would cause an embossing tool to leave a 'dull' impression, if that makes any sense; I work the glass in all directions making sure not to pick up a 'fold' of soft leather as I work. The idea is to smooth and flatten not cause ugly ridges!When the leather is nicely smooth - and you will definitely notice a difference - then leave it a while until it is ready to tool. That is all there is to it but it makes a world of difference to the look of a finished item. The stain is more even and the surface is free of most of the blemishes. It even seems to help get rid of most of those annoying 'greasy' spots that make a stain job patchy. The most noticeable thing is the way embossing and carving looks after a piece of leather has been slicked. It seems sharper and more clearly definined somehow.I'll gladly post a picture of my slicker in action if anyone wants to see it. Just let me find my camera... What is a bob house, John? - I'm pretty sure we don't have 'em over here!

Have a great meal, Holly. Happy Birthday!

Hiya cousin Grinch!