King's X

Welcome to the forum. What an awesome friendship you have there!

Picture #31 the Tandy Skiver. I will take it if still available. How much do you want for the large box of scraps? I am looking for large pieces not so much the reins. I want to make some leather molds for different project and I am looking for the thick leather scraps. Just let me know. Thanks.

Cheryl.. The link was bad. There was nothing there but the hosting page.

Springfield leather also has them. I used to buy them from Tandy directly (just the spring), but I was told during a recent attempt that they are discontinuing that product and the spring will no longer be available.

Cheryl Sorry to hear about your time of need. Can I ask you about the 4" splitter? I am also interested in maybe a medium box of the heavy scrap leather. Thanks and good luck!

Welcome to the forum H/S.

Welcome to the forum Brian and greetings from Central Texas, USA!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tippmann-Boss-leather-stitcher-leather-sewing-machine-/320765924481?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aaf239481#ht_500wt_1203

That is really cool Casey.............I have room in my collection if you ever want to let one go.

Welcome to the forum Truckie! I would advise you to go by your local Tandy store or other leather related store to see about getting some instruction under your belt. As you progress, you can buy the tools you need and go from there. As for the patch or logo replication..........you can do this with some experience under your belt. You will have to know how each of your tools work and how you handle them to get the best out of leathercraft. Sit back, relax and check our archives for a ton of information and resource here.

You should go to Dick's website and send him to explain that term you found in his LCSJ article. He seems to be a very nice guy and will probably have no problem answering it for you. Here is his website: www.shererssaddlesinc.com. Dick also has a book on restoring saddles that you can order directly from him. You might also try one of your local Frenchmen by the name of Aloin Alain Eon who has published a book titled "Restoring Vintage Western Saddles" He is one of my friends on Facebook and he can probably help you as well. I wish I had more information for you, sorry!

Welcome to the forum and greetings from Central Texas, USA! You will soon find out that not many of us Americans are big bad wolves.........okay maybe for me big is accurate. Either way, sit back and relax.

Nice work! I will be there and will make sure to stop by.

Your awesome............thanks!

Thanks. Our meeting is the first Wednesday of each month. I would like the pattern a bit earlier since I will have to make a few demos for the meeting. This would be great if you could spare the help. Thanks for offering.

Enrique Welcome to the forum!

Lewy ~ welcome to the forum. Look like you're on your way.

Using a Peter Main technique that I found in one of Tandy's books, I made this one using some Elephant skivings and natural calf lace scraps. I believe Peter makes his using edging trim scraps, but I wanted to do something different. It came out a bit spongy, but for my first time I am very happy.

Caroline ~ Thanks for the link. I follow your blog and have seen this mask. I truly admire it.

Is that Tandy glue called 'Leather Weld?' Comes in a bottle that looks just like the Elmer's bottle and even white in color.

It sounds like you ended up with a goopy mess. Please remember that the Eco-Flo products are water based so I would not suggest 'thinner.' If you want to do it right, I would suggest Tony Laier's Eco-Flo dyeing book that is sold at Tandy. If you use the Fiebings dyes, they also have their own book on using their products. You can use their regular color dye for the work you want to accomplish, but be sure to use a good sealant or all of your work will go to waste after one use on your hard working boots. Winterbear is correct. When cutting points and some other areas on your project that will receive a lot of stress like corners or points (feathers) you do not want to have your cut points meet. You want to make sure to stop short. This is also the same for crossing lines. The leather "may" lift with repeated use and weakening the leather over time. Chances are that your tooling will not stop with just the cutting, so something like beveling will join that corner and it will most likely look no different. On your undercutting, just try your best to keep your saddle (where your finger rests) pointing up. Try not to allow the saddle & barrel sway from side to side. The finger on your saddle applies direct pressure downward and your thumb and middle finger just guide and rotate your barrel. If you have the feeling like your knife is dragging, you might want to strop it and/or sharpen the blade. I am not a figure carver or great dyer. I always practice with my swivel knife on a piece of leather before I start a piece and many times in between projects. Simple circles and turns plus stop and starts are good exercises. As always, thanks for posting a picture......it looks great. Keep up your practice!

Since next month is Halloween, I was considering offering a Mask class at our next leather guild meeting. Since I have never built a mask and chances are if I suggest it I will be assigned to teach it, do any of you mask makers have a mask pattern that they would not mind allowing me to use? I am looking for a pattern other than a simple Batman or Green Hornet mask. Any help would be truly appreciated! You can send me the pattern via a PM if you would like. Thanks.

Welcome to the forum!

Texas Custom dies can make one any way you need it.

Well, welcome to the site and forum. Glad to have another member back into the world of leather craft. We would all appreciate any photographs you may have on the projects that you have made. Happy carving!