King's X

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Well, there you go!

Take a look at the printing of that book and remember that materials and supplies have come a long way. Al Stohlman had his way of doing things. You can adapt your way depending on your supplies. I use a pair of roping gloves and pliers to pull my needles through the holes when they become stubborn. You can also re-insert your awl and push it deeper. You will notice that your awl (okay most of them) are tapered at the point and graduately get thicker. Give a it a try!

Have you considered dyeing a natural thread to your specific color? Maybe Fiebings Oxblood would get it close to what you are looking for? I would give Breuttins Village a try.

On a lazy day, I will sand up to 600 grit. If I have the time, I will go up to 800 grits. I just went Walmart and purchased a multi pack of half sheets of sand paper in different grits. My drum sander out side is set at 150 grit, which I use to even out the edges and remove any glue residue. Good luck.

Oh really....my bad....I thought it was one of yours. Mike did do that maul justice!

Bearman.....I saw that too! I knew you would be proud.......you're famous!

Are you sanding or prepping the edge before you apply your dye & edge coat? I do.

Dude.....you did an awesome job and not one slip on live tv. Great job. I do have a question though. Would you consider this patter a simple design for teenagers and first timers as a project? I have been considering a simple project like this for our guild for next month since it will be Halloween season. any help would be appreciated!

Sorry. A Japanese company called Craft makes this stuff under the label of Coba Coat. Simon Bennett over at Goods Japans was the sender. I have not tried the Dura Edge stuff yet, but I have heard some good and bad stuff about it. Since I do not have someone locally that sells it, I have not bought it. Maybe if I find it at the Texas show at the end of the month, I may get some or try it out there.

Louis Roth or Lou Roth was somehow involved with the development of the Craftool Company based on Los Angeles. This tool line is the same line that Tandy Company and later Tandy Leather Factory currently sell. He later produced Craftaids. He was also involved in several lines of tools to include RBS which are collectible according to WyomingSlick. I am sure that others on here have more information for you on Lou Roth. Post some more pictures and you will probably get all or most of the answers you want. This is a find for you!

No problem......it just saves time from having to wait for responses. You have not been the only one to do this, after all how do you think I learned about the search button! Good luck and don't forget to post a picture of your new stamp!

I just received a product that the sender wanted me to test run it. My understanding is that this sample has a burnishing agent, dye and lacquer all in one product. Take a look at my blog site where I recently made a prototype project and just by luck I received this product so I used it. Since the product was new and I had no experience with applying it, I made some application mistakes but all in all it worked out just as I was told it would. The final review. It is a bit shiny for me, but it covers very well and looks good. Now, disclaimer, I do not have any reviews regarding the wear capabilities, but it would probably be worth a try without buying those expensive machine found in manufacturing plants. good luck.

By the way, you can artificially dry your leather just use a dryer (carefully). Not a problem......good luck!

I have three to my record. One craftool and two pro series. I blew the tandy manager away with the bent craftool, which happened to be a basketweave tool. So were the pro series tools as well. I used a 3lb maul to strike these tools. According to Ron at Hidecrafter's, he told me that has seen this happen to a couple of their tools. I dunno. It took me a while to learn how not to ruin leather....lol. Since I switched to BK, Hackbarth and Wayne J's I have not had one bend......period! That is all I am saying. I don't see this as picking on me just requesting information. No biggie here!

Peter K Welcome to the site and forum. Nice 110 knife holster you have there. Enjoy!

www.greyghostgraphics.com www.lasergiftcreations.com www.phillipsengraving.com Infinity Stamps Good luck

I found this today on eBay. I wonder if anyone has tried this for edge dye? Hhmmmm http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fiebing-Sole-Shoe-Edge-Heel-Polish-Black-6-oz-tube-/130576058120?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e66f08708#ht_3583wt_1187

Rad: typically, by the time I finish tooling, my leather will still have moisture, but not fully wet. The contrast or burnishing effect is more pronounced when the moisture has settled into the leather (not too wet). To properly case leather would call for allowing the leather to sit for some time and to including overnight after it has been dunked in water until the air bubbles disappear. What I prescribe for quick carving projects (something small) here is not what most masters call "proper casing." I will either use a spray bottle or sponge and water mixture and thoroughly wet my leather piece. Depending on my leather that I am using, I will place the leather piece aside for a prescribed amount of time before I consider working with it. Before I start carving, I will check the grain side to see if the leather has almost returned to it's original color. I will then place the leather (grain side) against my cheek or the top of my hand to check for coolness. Now, I am ready. When I am done tooling, if there is a slight hint of moisture, I will apply my oil and let it sit overnight. If the leather has been embossed or molded into shape, I will usually wait until the next day to oil. Some people will even oil their project and put in the sun for some natural tinting. I hope this helps.

check back the first of next month. The Texas saddle and boot show will be coming soon. I usually grab copies of the maker's individual tool impression sheets. I will scan them and post them up here along with photographs of the saddle & boot competition.

Have you tried a 'search' (top right hand corner). I am more than positive that this questions has been asked and answer a hundred times. Good luck.

I would take what you have down to your local Tandy store and simply ask for a copy of the pattern. I have always found my store to be very helpful!

Hey Sal Neatsfoot will usually tint the leather especially if you stick it in the sun to tan. If you do not want to tint the leather you can use EVOO and keep it away from the sun. I haven't heard of anyone using oil before carving & tooling. Make sure to post pictures when you find out what happens. thanks for offering!

Sweet! But I would remove that piece of stick......it doesn't match the rest of the project.....lol Great job!

Ditto! I have had a couple of the shafts bend on me, but than again my nickname is Thor when I am handling a maul.