dikman

I can understand that! I often do/make things because "it seemed like a good idea at the time" or it was just a challenge to do it. I suspect it will end up being more complex than you think but best of luck.

Beefy, it will be an interesting project for you and while you may be able to design/build something to do what you want it is likely to be specific to your setup. On a personal level my first servo had a needle positioner, I bought it because it sounded like a good idea and I had no idea what I was doing! I tried it and didn't like it. I find for sewing leather a slow, controllable speed is all I need and an NP is of little value.

First photo it's level with the needle plate, just needs a washer or two to keep it there. Or am I missing something else that I can't see?

A couple of washers under the edge guide to level it maybe?

Sounds like your blade is sharp, I reckon it's got too much moisture in it. I had a similar thing when I wanted to try something in a hurry, I dunked the leather in a bucket of water and started cutting not long after and had a similar result. I think the excess moisture makes it too soft and causes the leather to "grab" on the blade.

Very impressive! Looks like a lot of work, I'm sure he'll love it.

I cut the fingers off an old pair of leather gloves and slip one on my finger. I cut off the end so my finger pokes out. Sewn quite a few holsters and gunbelts, Works for me.

Beautiful job! Mine is still in its battered old grey paint - having restored a machine once I'm in no hurry to do it again!! Mine had the cutter assembly which I removed.

With "older" machines the rest (which is what it is) is made of wood and just pushes into the hole in the table, I've made my own from a broomstick handle. If you think it's too high you could cut it down or once you get it out try making a couple of replacements at different heights to see which works best.

I found this for you (didn't take long) it may be of some help. You could try asking Pfaff about a controller but I suspect the cost would be high - if they have one. The chances of getting one used would probably be low. Pity, it looks like a nice motor. Good luck. picodrive_p40pd.pdf

The feet look like they might be piping feet, a photo of the bottom of them would confirm it.

I have no doubt these motors are good (they're made by Hightex) but here they're a ridiculous price. I bought "generic" servos and built speed reducers for considerably less cost and they all work fine for my needs. I guess for commercial usage the cost isn't so much a factor - but how many factories want such a slow speed machine? In most factories the speed of making something is very important (time is money) so paying extra for a slow speed you don't need is wasting money. It seems to me it's a pretty specific (and limited) market this motor is catering for? Don't get me wrong, I'd love to change my servos for these but the cost would be absurd, ain't going to happen.

Don't forget the take-up spring adjustment.

It's a tension issue, although I'm not sure why it happens on the curve. I would have thought a manual machine would be less likely to do that. You can see it on the stitches around the curve, you've either lost top tension or bottom tension has increased. Again,

Tooling leather looks easy - until you try it! You've made a start, now you just need lots of practice to refine your techniques. Keep at it.

That is an interesting mod.

Like friquant said, everything about sewing machines is a compromise, the 160 needle might fit in the needle hole but is likely to be a problem once you add the thickness of the thread. Best way is to try it at the dealers but I would imagine #138/Tex 135 would be the limit. That was good of them to admit they made a mistake and allow an exchange.

Max of 8mm? That thing is definitely overkill, it's a 441-class machine, a harness stitcher!! It's too late now but you should have found out what options the seller has then ask here as to suitability. They should never have sold you a machine like that for what you are sewing.

I can't answer your question but I'm jealous!! Fancy finding a hunk of machinery like that at the dump!

It sounds like your machine has a clutch motor - big, heavy and fast! It takes a lot to learn to feather the clutch on these to go slow (I couldn't do it!). If so what you need is a servo motor, possibly in conjunction with a pulley speed reducer. This will enable you to sew slow without worrying about it accidentally taking off like a runaway freight train.

(This is for Al, not you friquant). In my early experiments I made a pulley out of wood - but it was a lot smaller! If you paint it black it might blend in better. Anyhow, as long as it works is the main thing. I wonder how it would go on a 441?

Looks like a good book, I've added it to my collection.

What are you actually going to use it for? If hammering rivets etc on it then aluminium will be too soft and will mark easily, steel plate will have to be pretty thick to avoid bounce when hammering. That's why anvils are so good (even little ones), they have mass to resist bounce.

Well, that's......different. Excellent workmanship.

Looks ok to me, it depends on the type of needle you're using. Some give a slanted stitch, some give a straight stitch.