dikman

Nice setup, I knew you'd find some way of 3D printing something for it! The holder is very neat, by the way, if using jars it should be better than the hook-type thingy I have. Amongst my airbrushes is a Paasche like yours, very simple to use (and clean) and great for general use. It does require a higher pressure to run than internal mix units but for coverage work, as opposed to detail, it's a better brush to use. Rather than use an air splitter I fitted quick-release adaptors to all my brushes, simple to swap them and I only have one hose to avoid tripping over! Good writeup.

I wonder if that slit Bruce mentions is actually the result of a narrow sliver of leather being removed? If that was done top and bottom it would allow the leather to be pushed together to bulge up a bit, then stitched and finally wet formed.

You might be struggling but that came out great! Very nice work.

Definitely avoid the last one, it looks like it should work but doesn't!!!

If they have their own proprietary thread size why not just say so? I don't think Singer made any big deal about it. I'm curious to see what you find out.

To be so secretive about screw thread information is weird, it suggests to me that they don't actually know!

Maybe it is an SV model, these are notorious for having little, if any, information available about them?

Chuck made a good point about the powder in particular catching at the join, and don't forget plastics are notoriously difficult to glue. You might have to consider a "sandwich" layer, trapping the plastic between leather?

If you're only going to be sewing things occasionally then hand stitching might be the way to go but if you definitely want a machine then don't mess around and look for a walking foot, DO NOT buy a domestic machine and expect it to sew leather (regardless if someone says it's a "heavy duty/semi-industrial" machine). The deciding factor is the total thickness you want to sew.

As they say, the customer is always right. I guess he knows what he's doing, regardless you did an excellent job on the snake.

Thanks Will, I've been experimenting with using a cam to do the pushing, it seemed to me it should be a more "elegant" approach but it ended up pretty clumsy trying to get the travel required. It seems the pivot/linkage is the best way to go (that's the method used in a couple of commercial units I found).

Powder AND shot - I did wonder why you would make a double shot holder but not having any experience with that side of BP shooting I took it at face value. I would have thought carrying a separate powder horn/flask would make more sense.

Beautiful work indeed! I love the moth (butterfly?), it's brilliant.

Oops, I missed the rancid bit - it's obviously compounded but as has been said they used something even cheaper than mineral-based oil, some sort of vegetable/animal oil that goes off. Definitely don't use it on leather (unless it's for someone you don't like!).

Sounds like it might be compounded neatsfoot oil, this is pure NF mixed with petroleum-based oils. It can be made cheaper because it's effectively diluting the NF with (relatively) cheap mineral oils. It will still work on leather but most leatherworkers prefer the pure stuff. If it's compounded it should mention it on the labei. A google search for P Paulin doesn't come up with anything.

Be wary of people advertising machines as "semi-industrial" or "heavy duty", in most cases they will simply be older domestic machines.

The scarf (the little notch on the needle) faces towards the hook.

Definitely not pretty , but yes, functional. Using a cam to operate the push rod, which could be shorter, is what I have in mind, just an idea kicking around.

I'm curious why that is the weak link? What am I missing? It doesn't look any different to me than other buckles I have.

Bit of confusion there Jonas, he's talking about the lead shot not Black Powder. Brass would deform and crush if dropped/sat on whatever. Some sort of polyethylene funnel cut off and stitched inside? Or sheet polyethylene (milk bottle?) rolled into shape and stitched inside? Or as Chuck suggested, veg tan made to shape and stiffened (hot water?).

It finally warmed up enough to paint it so I'm calling it finished. I can now see how to make a better one, a bit smaller and neater.

Don't bother wasting your time trying to slow down a clutch motor (been there, done that!), there is a steep learning curve trying to control one for sewing leather. You got those machines at a bargain price so do yourself a favour and buy a servo motor, you won't regret it (you may need a speed reducer too, but try the servo first). There's been lots written about oils, to a point it's not that critical as long as it's a light oil but do not use car engine oil in the long run it can gum things up. The best way for a newbie is to buy Lillywhite Sewing Machine oil if you can. That 155 is a real workhorse.

Always nice when a plan comes together.

The banding steel isn't hardened but it had no problem punching into the white plastic board in the press so yes, I think the saw would work ok. I looked up those rolling thingies, unfortunately they're not cheap anymore.

Might depend on the type of saw? I was thinking of the real cheap Chinese ones which are likely made out of plain carbon steel which hopefully would mean it can be re-hardened if necessary.