dikman

I guess it depends what market the OP is aiming for. I think it's fair to say that most don't want fancy options that they will never use, once one is set up for leather sewing it's doubtful they will fiddle around with the options in most servos - other than speed control. Yes, I know some like an NPS but once you have your machine setup for sewing leather, which generally means slow-speed, then an NPS isn't necessary. Having fiddled around with several different generic servos/speed reducers my optimum for sewing leather would be very low speed startup, lots of torque and variable speed using a knob placed near the machine. Having converted my lathe to a VFD I can use a knob to vary the speed at will, it is a much better system that anything else. And make it affordable!!!!! The OP has a "high-torque" motor currently available and it is apparently pretty good but at 2-3 times the price of generic servos I won't be buying one.

As Sark9 said because it's a treadle machine there's no easy way to fit a foot pedal to lift the foot. Adapting a knee lifter is the only practical option that I can see.

A couple more photos would be nice but it does look very well done.

Whilst I do have the actual ammunition for what I've made so far I made up a set of dummy rounds in .38, .44-40 and 12ga, makes it much easier to make belt loops. I also have an assortment of empty rifle calibre cases if I ever need them. I'm guessing you couldn't have them either?

I've had that happen (hook piercing the thread) with a spool of braided thread that I have. In general my machines don't like it and I can't get them to sew consistently, which is a pity as it's nice thread otherwise. It's a very "limp" thread which is the problem I think. Adjusting the hook too close the the scarf in the needle can be risky as it only takes the slightest deflection of the needle to cause a crash.

One of the joys of buying old(er) machines, you never know what may have been changed. Calidora, looks like you've got it sorted and could be a handy machine to have.

Once you mentioned holsters that immediately puts you into the heavy sewing machine category i.e. the 441 class. Trying with anything less will be a failure, don't even think about it.

Lots of youtube videos to watch and learn more about leatherwork.

Indeed! If you join a car or motorbike forum I can guarantee there will be a thread titled "what is the best oil to use?" and there will be endless discussion/argument about the subject.

There's enough there to cut it back to a uniform distance all around, using the distance from the tail feathers as your reference, and then sew it onto a backing piece that can be larger to allow for a decorative stamping if needed. Just depends what it's going to be used for.

Cool! You did a great job on the paint. If I need any conveyor belts stitched I know who to contact.

Technically, here in Oz we are only allowed to transport handguns to and from the range (or a gunsmith/dealer, who will be suitably licensed to accept it and have the necessary paperwork). Having said that it varies from State to State, here in SA it is possible BUT there is paperwork involved and the receiving person should have a handgun licence. Plus Handstitched is in Western Australia where their Firearms Regulations are in complete disarray due to politics! Firearm owners there have to be very, very careful at the moment.

I suspect you could also use medicinal/food grade mineral oil too as it won't have any of the additives you get in many industrial oils.

Yep, if you're not sure what to use then it's the safest.

Interesting that google comes up with nothing for that model number. Kgg is probably pretty close to its capabilities, you can see the bobbins in the photos and they are small. It is definitely not a holster-making machine. And yeah, what "1/2" shaft" has to do with anything beats me.

That's different! It appears to be well looked after too.

I bought mine off Ali-express, cheaper than ebay at the time. Some now come with a hose between the compressor and airbrush which could be handy for getting in tight places, I suppose, but it's getting away from the portability aspect a bit. There's a huge number of generic airbrushes available now, and pretty cheap, ranging from external mix (I have a Paasche, very handy and as you say easy to clean) to double-action with bottom suction feed, side feed, top gravity feed and a pistol grip type with a largish paint bottle on top, and all pretty cheap. I've ended up with all of these and I've got no complaints with the quality of them. One thing I did was to polish the needles, it might not be necessary for spraying leather but I did it anyway. One of my grand-daughters is very artistic and creative and one day when I mentioned airbrushes her eyes lit up so I've "lent" her one of my compressors and a top-feed airbrush, she was very excited about trying something new. Knowing my wife I suspect "donate" is a better term.

There are plenty of youtube vids showing how to make a pattern but it's pretty simple for a slimjim, basically do as you said, fold some cardboard around the gun and mark out the shape and allow for the stitch line. If you look at the top of this section there is a tutorial on making a slimjim.

You've got quite the collection! That Chameleon is an interesting device, I've never heard of them before (which probably isn't surprising). As for your question about the "self-contained" unit, I have one but haven't used it much only because I haven't done much airbrushing for a while. It works well and is certainly convenient as I don't have to drag out compressor, hose etc. I bought it after reading about the idea on various modelling forums, most who used one seemed happy enough with it. There are various types available, some have a removable battery pack so you can swap them when they go flat. Theoretically, any "modern" airbrush should fit onto the compressor container as all of the China-made models have the same thread size, but I couldn't guarantee it. The older Badgers won't fit without an adaptor, likewise Paasche.

Like others have mentioned, Chapman have a great range and are excellent quality. I bought them for working on firearms but find them useful for lots of other stuff, they have parallel sides on the blades and some are very thin, not always easy to find.

I've often contemplated trying this then using photoshop to make up a pattern. Looks like it might work.

I've never used edge paint, just dye if necessary and burnish. I figure that paint, by it's nature, might eventually peel off.

I dislike "like" buttons and never use them if they're there. On one forum a member who seemed to think he was particularly "helpful" (he wasn't) had a sig line asking people to "like" him if they found his post useful. He was obviously trying to gather likes! I've never felt the need for such ego-building, if my post is helpful to anyone that's great, if not so what. If I find a post particularly useful I'll say so in the post.

Ahh, that makes sense, although I've never come across it before. I can see why it's problematic on thin leather with finer thread. They obviously expect the machine to be only used with heavy stuff.

I didn't think of a chest holster, not surprising seeing that we're not allowed to have them so I haven't tried one but yes, that could work quite well, the down-side is that it will be a lot more complicated to make. It could be a bit daunting for someone without a lot of experience making holsters?