dikman

0630 - that's a bit uncivilized. That red car looks like it's run into the tree.

Ah yes, spalted maple makes beautiful handles! Nicely done.

Besides your problem loading pics I don't understand what's wrong, from your description it sounds like your stitches are ok?

I sometimes feel the same way. I have a nice collection of pocket knives but I can't carry one without a bloody good reason or I'll be charged with carrying an offensive weapon! Such is the parlous state of laws in Australia. That boot knife is a great way to carry a knife if you wear boots, it doesn't get in the way but is readily available when needed. Oh, and I didn't mention that I like the stag handle, they just look "right" on a knife.

Nice job on both, the colour sort of matches the handle. As an aside, that knife would get you arrested here.

One thing I would not do is try and remove the leather. Given its age and how thin it is it's likely to be very brittle and will probably tear. As for glues, you could try shellac again or perhaps a very thin layer of contact cement (maybe the water-based type if you're concerned about solvents).

I still consider myself a novice at leatherwork but my first thought on reading your post was "hard leather so bigger needle needed".

Speaking of mineral oil, I recently bought an electric shaver and the instructions mentioned regular oiling of the cutters, so naturally I looked up the MSDS of the commercial oils. Guess what, it's mineral oil! This stuff is turning into a "wonder oil" for many things - leatherwork, firearms, shavers, baby products, the list keeps growing.

Whatever they want it to? It's a very vague term but sounds good to the uninformed. Based on looking at the MSDS for many such products it's a safe bet that the major constituent of virtually all of these products is the ubiquitous mineral oil. Probably the cheapest bulk oil for them to use. Add (very) small amounts of lanolin, beeswax or some other natural product, along with something to make it smell nice, and you have a relatively cheap-to-make product that is often described as "all-natural ingredients" and can be sold for a high profit margin.

You've been a busy boy! For some reason your travelling light fixture made me smile , don't know why as it's simple and effective.

Welcome mate, turtle or not that holster is very nice work.

I'm guessing that you also said smokeless powder was just a passing fad? Yep, I reckon there would be more of a market for them, too. Lots of leatherworkers have arbor presses.

Not the prettiest job I've seen (sounds funny coming from me!) but an effective solution to adding a speed reducer. The only thing to watch though is when winding bobbins, don't get any slack from your spool as the winder being so close to the pulley it could get "interesting" if the thread got caught!

Personally, I wouldn't go with the Pfaff. They're a quality machine from a top manufacturer but it may not be the best choice for what you want to do. Many of them were set up as binders which means the feed dog will only be back and forth rather than the lift and move type. Clearance under the feet is often not as great as some other machines and I agree with kgg, I doubt it will handle #207 thread, max is likely to be #138 but will probably be happier with #69. Look for another machine, in the long run I think it would be a better move.

kgg has summed it up pretty well. From my perspective as a hobbyist the only possible advantage is a more compact setup - but that is far outweighed by the cost factor. Having a motor under the table (or mounted on the table, next to the head) gives you flexibility in your setup and if you need to replace the motor there are any number of generic motors available at reasonable prices. A no-brainer, really.

Very impressive! The gradation/shading is very effective.

Well, I must admit to being confused. Your post refers to "our system" and gives the impression you are manufacturing them. Your other recent post says you make tools for the fashion and leather industry. Whoever makes them they appear to be very nicely made.

It looks pretty good to me , Herbie. What Fred suggested will tone it down a bit, but sometimes subtlety isn't necessarily needed.

Personally, I reckon you're overthinking the whole thing. Any curve on the belt is unlikely to be great enough to be an issue for boolit loops.

There are no "rules" or "laws" that say how you must do something in leatherwork, you do whatever works for you. There are proven methods that work well for some things but if you want to do it a different way that's also fine. Some people believe in only doing things by hand (no machinery), again there's nothing wrong with that it's an individual choice. Just go for it and enjoy yourself.

Nothing wrong with that stitching, looks good.

I guess we need a photo (or two) showing the construction of said knife.

Is that an Irish thing? It's often said that some Tasmanians have two heads.

If it's a hidden tang and it's already starting to loosen I'd pull the blade out of the handle, remove the ferrule and reglue both with an epoxy.