dikman

That should work but longevity is going to be the issue. It has the advantage that you can print spares to keep handy, failure during a project may be a concern. Worth a try.

I would say the chances of finding a pulley like that are pretty slim. Over the years I've bought several different (generic) servos and never had a shaft like that, they've all been straight and took generic pulleys. I'm assuming you can't return it for a different type so you have two options as I see it, either fit a speed reducer as kgg suggested or possibly replace the machine handwheel with a larger pulley.

I have a slightly bigger pair of those cable cutters and they are vicious things! They will cut up to 3/4" copper cable with no effort.

See? That wasn't so hard, was it. You would have regretted it if you didn't do it the right way.

I use the same process for hand stitching as it gives nice even spacing.

Gato, I had the same idea but given the amount of stitching on the loops I reckon it would be better to just open them up (probably less frustrating in the long run).

If you don't open them up to stitch on the loops then in the future every time you look at them you'll wish you had done it properly. You could use pins, needles, small brads or those thingy's fred showed - I bought some of those a while ago just in case I need them - to line up the holes. A lot of extra work but at least you'll know you did it the right way. I made a couple of western holsters based on Steve McQueen's from The Magnificent Seven, the end of the loop was attached using Chicago screws with the fixed part trapped between the two layers making up the holsters. Over time a slight bump developed on the inside of the holsters where the screws are and is a potential wear spot. I don't think I'll use this method again.

Very nice, given the circumstances you did well!

I made a pair of western holsters and just gave them a coat of neatsfoot oil then rubbed on a coat of wax (tallow/beeswax). That was years ago and other than a few scuffs they still look the same. As for dipping in melted beeswax, it's not something I would recommend for a holster as you could end up with a mess trying to clean off the excess! It's not necessary for holsters.

Leather strap for sure, even if it's left plain it will be more in keeping with the overall look. And watch your stitching, it all looks good except for the piece holding the tongue loop down. It was the first thing that hit me being highly visible. Other than that, what the others said.

SUP, I've always just used "smooth". Anyhow, it's an interesting idea you have there. I have plenty of paraffin wax that I bought to re-wax a jacket and don't have any other use for it, plus plenty of beeswax, plus some old hard leather from a very old saddle, might have to give this idea some thought.

"Smoothen"? I had to look that up and yes, it's a word. In all my 76 years I've never heard it before. I finally learned a new word.

I cleaned my glasses but I still can't see any problems with the wallet.

Not "art block" (although I'm not particularly artistic anyway) it's more a lack of motivation. I just can't seem to get going.......

Regarding pliers, I use a pair that that have flat smooth jaws but more importantly have a mechanism that keeps the jaws parallel at all times. They work very nicely for pulling needles through leather.

Nothing wrong with the bog-standard contact cement, and as a bonus it keeps you happy while you work!

Very effective. While "traditional carving" is always nice, in this case the laser lets you get fine detail on what are small items, and also lets you produce them quicker. The Hotel California is very whimsical but I daresay the subtlety will be lost on many due to them being too young!

What he said, remove the head and use plenty of padding to support it. I always removed everything from the table for transport. You may need a new belt for the servo as the existing one might be too long, other than that have fun.

I was going to watch it later but once I started........his work with just one knife was fascinating to watch and yes, I wondered about the glue. It seemed to dry pretty quick and yet he kept it in a dish that is open to the air. And it never occurred to me to use a hard grinding wheel to sand edges, I may just have found a use for all the grinding wheels that I've accumulated (plus they'll last forever!).

Very classy!

Looks to me like a common garden-variety domestic sewing machine. If you want a heavy-duty machine then keep looking.

At least two of my machines were ex-factory, one from a car manufacturer (when we used to build our own cars) and both were single-phase. It is rare to see a used sewing machine for sale here with a three-phase motor. Factories, of course, have three-phase power for most of their machinery but also use single-phase and for a sewing machine with a clutch motor single-phase power is perfectly adequate. It would be interesting to know how many other manufacturers, besides those in Germany, made three-phase powered sewing machines.

Things must be different on your side of the world. Every industrial sewing machine I've bought came with a single-phase clutch motor, 240v/50 Hz, all of which I either sold or scrapped and replaced with servos as the most cost-effective and practical solution. The reason I did that is because those clutch motors CANNOT be controlled with a simple dimmer control/potentiometer device - the controller will immediately blow up if you try. As I mentioned before, those controllers are intended for universal-type motors as used in power tools, hair dryers, fans etc, not single phase induction motors. I wonder how many unsuspecting people buy those cheap controllers on ebay thinking they can slow down their grinder or drill press only to have them go poof when they try? Trying to make a single-phase motor variable speed is a complex issue and not worth the trouble/cost, as you say three-phase motors are the best option in that case (if you don't want a servo).

It sounds like you have a "thing" for old pedals. Must admit they do look better than a flat piece of steel, adds a bit of character.

Thanks Gerry, that's what I meant, guess it wasn't clear enough. Without a foot pedal of some sort with a potentiometer the only way to vary the speed of the sewing machine is by using the inbuilt VFD speed control which requires using your hand - no problem if you have three hands. I'm a bit confused, however, as it sounds like some are talking about controlling the existing clutch motor just by adding a VFD? That can't be done with the clutch motors I have had as they were single phase induction motors which can't be controlled with a VFD. If it was that simple then belt grinder manufacturers wouldn't have to use three phase motors on their products and could save money. Bottom line is for most people the simplest option is to replace the clutch motor with a servo, they are relatively inexpensive, are a straight bolt on replacement and use less power than a single/three phase motor.