dikman

You're an ideas man, I see, that could work!

Cool, I'm looking forward to seeing them.

Anything you want to know about Juki machines, kgg's the man! He's had a wee bit of experience with them.

I would think unscented is the way to go. Many people like a "leather smell" to their items, not scented, plus not everyone might like the scent you choose so won't buy it. My advice, keep it neutral.

https://sunvalleytrading.com.au/ Damas, these are the folks who sell these parts and can help you out (where I got mine from).

A bit over-the-top.....but it suits the knife! Very nice work.

Very neat!

Errr, maybe make up the tea solution first next time? Sorry, but I can't help laughing, you've got to admit it's funny! And yeah, perhaps go a bit easy on the gin.....

The "newer" models have better foot lift/clearance than the older ones, probably a more useful machine overall.....but the old ones have character! (I have to say that 'cos I have one ).

The perfect walking foot machine? Ahh, you're a funny person....... Anyhow, what you've bought should be a very nice machine to use and be a good "general purpose" machine. And welcome to the forum and the rabbit hole that is leather sewing machines!

Look up ranger-style gunbelts and you'll see what Dwight is talking about regarding the belt overlap. You did a nice job on the carving.

You do realise you have responded to a 10 year old post? As for the 15mm lift, the post is referring to the old casting 335 and I can assure you it doesn't have 15mm lift.

Unfortunately it sounds like one of those unforeseen accidents with a happy outcome, never to be repeated.

A common issue for holster makers when making lined holsters, it caused me a bit of consternation the first time it happened to me! It will happen with anything that is lined when you try to make a sharpish fold. The only way to avoid it is to pre-curve the pieces, as Dwight said. It can be a bit fiddly trying to line up two curved pieces that have contact cement on them but I do as he also said and use stiffish plastic to keep the pieces apart, working it out a bit at a time.

You did well, Zack. The final cost, however, will depend on the country you're in. I'm in Australia and a few years back looked into buying a 441 clone head unit from China. Bear in mind that we're reasonably close to China so you would expect shipping to be reasonable. By the time I took into account various shipping/handling/brokerage/customs/import etc fees there was little to be gained from buying one here so I bought a 4500 locally for about the same price. And since then shipping costs have skyrocketed!!

I would think if the leather has been treated with oils/waxes (as DT suggested) then you're going to have a very hard time trying to get any paint to stick. Oils and waxes are notorious for repelling anything and wax in particular is extremely difficult to remove completely.

Very clean work. Yeah, you're pretty brave working with white leather!

Yup, show us a photo of the desk behind the machine head.

Servos are definitely worth having on a leather sewing machine, you won't feel like you're fighting the machine to control the speed! If you have any mechanical skills at all you should be able to fit a servo yourself. The mounting holes are pretty well standard spacing, you will probably have to source a couple of belts but that shouldn't be too hard.

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention I tape a piece of dowel along the barrel from the front sight back to stop the sight from snagging.

I actually have a couple of dies for cutting key fobs, the one in my pic and a larger more squarish one, that were given to me by an old friend who used to have a leather business.

You must be pleased with that. Gunbelts and holsters are always a big undertaking. Wrap the gun in plastic (I use a few layers of kitchen cling film) wrap a layer or two of cloth around it to bulk it out then more cling film. Run some water down the inside of the holster then force the padded gun in. Wiggle it around from time to time as it dries and that should fix it. Some people also mold the top outside edge of the holster away from the gun a little, this can help prevent the cylinder from catching when re-holstering.

Just proves there's not an original idea in my head! I see you've taken the idea a bit further. Do you have much of a market for them? My wife and grand-daughter said I should sell them, my answer was that I can't be bothered, too much work.

Looks good, contrasts nicely with coloured thread.

I saw the first carving and thought it was pretty good, then as I moved down the page I saw the finished product! Amazing work.