dikman

Ah, the joys of buying an old used machine. I shifted it to my Singer 211's table. First problem, no hinges so it listed badly to the rear! I swapped over the hinges - looks like I'll have to make another pair - and at least it then fitted properly. I had to fit a longer motor adjustment bolt to get enough adjustment to fit the belts. Next problem, the knee lifter didn't do anything, the connecting rod on the machine was too short. Looking at the 211 I noticed that it had an "extension" piece fitted to the end of the lifting rod and it had a small roller wheel on the bottom to ride on the lifting plate. Rather than simply fitting a longer rod I decided to make a similar fitting, using a bearing salvaged from a hard disc drive as the roller. Works well. Problem #3. Using the knee lifter I now had just over 3/8" clearance under the foot, but with the normal lifting lever I couldn't even get 1/4" of leather under it. I re-adjusted the presser foot, as it appeared to be out of adjustment relative to the vibrating foot, but that didn't help. I then noticed that the lifting lever had a lot of loose play in it so removed it . The lever had an awfully big hole compared to the pin that held it, so I guessed that it should have had a sleeve fitted around the pin. I made a suitable brass sleeve and now have over 1/4" clearance when the feet are lifted. I then ran the machine, but without thread, and it ran fine. The stitch length adjuster also worked. Next problem is the missing thread guides. The lower one will be easy to make, but the upper one is a problem (yes, I can get it overseas, and it's pretty cheap, but the shipping....). The problem is the same one I ran into with the Pfaff - the (metal) thread size, in this case, is US and I can't match it with anything I've got, including some of my US dies. I figure I'll find the closest fit to the thread on a piece of rod, drill the guide holes and then either use plumbing tape to pack out the threads or use Loctite. I'm still not quite sure what I'm actually going to use this machine for .

Unfortunately, some of us don't have that sort of timeframe available to us anymore......... .

Wiz makes a good point, clutch motors are pretty basic technology, with not a real lot to go wrong. I'm with Uwe, however, the technology is there (and most electronics are pretty reliable these days) so it makes perfect sense to me to utilise it and be able to concentrate fully on learning how to actually sew, rather than trying to tame a runaway sewing machine at the same time!

Up close (real close) yeah, I can see some "funny things", but from a distance it has an incredible used, aged look about it!

I'm not a fan of basketweave myself, but yours looks pretty good to me! Considering how cool the knife handle looks, I reckon a plainer sheath would have set it off better - but that's just my opinion, and I'm the first to admit I don't know much. And if your mate likes it, that's all that matters.

Amen to that, brother!

I too was raised on a clutch car, and ride (clutch) motorbikes, but the first time I fired up my clutch sewing machine it seemed uncontrollable!!! With practice I guess I could master it (eventually) but for my needs I couldn't see the point in fighting it. I need slow speeds, rather than fast, so anything I can do to make it manageable - servos, speed reducers, bigger pulleys - I will do. My hats off to you guys who can get such delicate control from a clutch sewing machine motor.

Yep, that's what I figured, Sovran, I find ATF is quite handy to keep around .

Go for the biggest you think you can fit, it all helps. I fitted an 8", along with a servo fitted with a 1 3/4", to try and control my Pfaff!

Your other option is to remove the handwheel and replace it with a larger pulley - 8" or even 10"! The shaft is 1/2", I think. You would need a longer belt and may need to open out the slot in the table that the belt goes through, but that will slow it down and still give you lots of grunt.

I hadn't actually thought of it from that perspective, I was only going to do it temporarily just to run it. Hmmm. The only problem I have is that on that particular table I fitted a pulley reducer underneath so it's a bit of messing around changing things. I might have to modify the reducer adjustment to make it quicker to change over, I reckon that will work. It will also save space in not having to fit in another table. Plus that table's fitted with a servo. Thanks for the idea guys.

I downloaded a parts list for a 152 and it certainly appears to match up. I also realised that the handwheel has been fitted back-to-front (!) and figured out how the adjustments for the stitch length adjuster work, so backed it off a fraction and now it's much easier to adjust. I've also realised that the base plate is the same size as the 211G that I have, so I should be able to swap this one onto the table and get it working.

Good idea about the clutch system. I reckon if I weld the rear freewheeling pulley to the adjacent pulley stack then it should work as a speed reducer. I spent a fair bit of time on it today and it's looking good. The first thing I did was lubricate everything that looked like it would move, using ATF. Before anyone jumps on me, I used that because I wanted something that would lubricate but was very thin in order to work its way into the bearing surfaces. Once it's "soaked" for a while I'll work some heavier oil into it. Basically, everything is working as it should, although the stitch length adjustment is very tight so I've been working extra lube into the mechanism. While the paint finish is chipped and worn that's to be expected, but most of the rust is fairly light surface stuff. The needle bar and presser feet cleaned up ok with steel wool, but the worst are the two plates next to the feed plate with some pitting on them (bit they're still usable). Timing appears to be correct. The thread tension assembly needed a bit of work. There was minimal rusting and it cleaned up well, but the thread takeup spring had been butchered by someone. I used a spare from a domestic machine that I'd pulled apart and it only needed tweaking slightly with a pair of pliers (it's surprising the similarity there is between some of the domestic and industrial parts in Singer machines). The tension release didn't work when the presser foot was lifted and at first I thought the operating rod was worn, but that didn't make any sense. Further investigation showed that the lever arm at the rear wasn't lifting enough to push on the rod. I couldn't see any obvious adjustment so a bit of judicious bending with a pair of pliers fixed that. I also had to bend the lever arm on the rear of the tension assembly plate - now it works. Now I just need to make a replacement thread guide and that's it until I can get a table for it.

Can you remove the existing motor pulley and measure the shaft? I thought most of the motors these days use the same size shaft (15 mm, I think) - all of mine are the same size with a key on the shaft and held on by a big nut. If it is that type then you can pick up a smaller pulley off ebay - I'm using 45 mm on my motors.

Got it home. As I thought, the table is a home-made job, made from 1" square tube, and the top is 1/2" particle board! She didn't really want the table left, so I figured the 1" tube is always useful and I'll junk the top. The motor is an ordinary, garden variety 1/4 HP thing, but the interesting bit was the clutch/pulley fitting (see last photo). Don't know what I can use it for, but it's different..... To the machine itself. It actually looks to be in pretty good condition. There is surface rust around the needle bar/presser feet, but the insides and underneath are pretty rust-free - but barely a trace of oil anywhere!!!!! I'll have to strip the needle bar area to clean it up, but the rest looks like all it needs is a good oiling. As you can see from the label, it's definitely part of the 111 class, the W indicates it's made at Bridgeport (confirmed, I reckon, by the Made in USA on top), The SV I mentioned in the first post, but the model no. 77 has me beat. I would welcome any help on this one. In the meantime, can any of you highly knowledgeable chaps relate the photos to any other 111 machines? At least then I'll know which manual to get for it. And it's definitely a compound feed. The thread tensioner assembly needs a bit of work on it and it looks like something has broken off just above it and to the right - there is a stub of shaft/bolt just showing. I'll keep my eyes open for a cheap machine just to get a suitable table to use, in the meantime I'll clean it up a bit and get some oil into it (poor thing must be dying for a lube job ). Even with having to junk the rest of it, I'm more than happy with the head unit for $150. Edit: I did a bit more digging around and it looks very much like the 111W152, so I downloaded the manual. The stitch length is the same (5spi max.) and it even has the thread lubricating box that's shown in the manual. It's strange that there doesn't seem to be any info on the "SV" designation, other than that one youtube vid.

Yep, I figured it might be pretty old (doesn't even have reverse ). The fact that I can't find any info on it has me intrigued.

I should have added these photos (all I've got for now).

I'll pick it up tomorrow, although I'm still not completely sure just what it is! The seller couldn't quite make out the model number, as it's all pretty grotty, but it sort of looks like it says 111WSV77 - and if anyone can find out anything about this particular model I'll be very impressed! The closest I can find is a youtube reference to a 111WSV71 - but that one is a needle feed, whereas this one appears to be a compound feed. I spent lots of time searching the 'net for any reference to it, and had to get the seller to email me some photos of the foot assembly to confirm it had two feet, needle bar and feed dog (she had no idea what I was talking about). The youtube video made reference to the SV as being "Special Variance", a special model made for the military and being made with extra heavy/hardened materials. If so, it sounds like a good buy for $150 . It's been sitting for a couple of years, but she said that the motor works and the needle moves (always a good start) but it will probably need a good cleaning and lubing. The table appears to be a "home-made" job, all welded square tubing, so I'll have to take an angle grinder to cut the legs off to get it in my car. Hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like it might have a speed reducer fitted too (clutch motor). My wife asked if I really need it, I said in all honesty no, but at that price it's a bargain for a 111 series walking foot.

I'm with TinkerTailor and use a soldering iron with a fine tip. That way I don't have to worry about the flame getting where it shouldn't, it gives very precise control and it's possible to fuse the end to the adjacent thread (if you're careful).

Not to mention the glue for sticking leather......wheeee.......

Further to Wiz's fishing analogy, when I got into fishing many, many years ago I soon learned that there is no one rod/reel for all occasions and ended up building several different style of rods. Being a relative newbie to industrial sewing machines, I spent a lot of time on the Singer post machine that I was given and slowly realised that it was designed for a fairly specific type of sewing, and no matter how much I wanted it to do heavier leather it simply wasn't going to work! I knew I would need another machine, but there was no way I was going to get rid of the one I had. Like the fishing rods, I knew that I would need different machines for different jobs and also knew that if I already had a good machine I'd be pretty stupid to get rid of it. So once you get a good machine, unless you absolutely have to don't get rid of it!!! The down side, unfortunately, is that they take up room so, as Darren said, I got out the hammer and nails (or in this case the impact driver and angle grinder!).

The Weaver motor appears to be an FESM550-type. From my observations, most of the Chinese servos have similar specs and the main differences appear to be in the housing/mounting system used. One thing I found is that my needle positioner won't work with my Chinese digital servo, if I fit a speed reducer as well. No big deal as I simply removed the positioner (I'd rather have the reducer). As you're new to this, Uwe makes great sense when he says to stick with a (known) local vendor as it should give you peace-of-mind with your purchase.

Well spotted, I didn't see that. Guess we'll never really know why it was done.

I must admit that I'm surprised that it's not 15 mm (particularly as it appears to be your basic Chinese servo). We live and learn. The keyway is pretty standard, and is the same on all my Chinese-bought pulleys, plus the locally bought ones (same thing) and also the two generic clutch motor pulleys. As there's only 2 mm difference, you could try some thin sheet tin or aluminium to sleeve the shaft, cutting a slot for the key. If you can get a snug fit then it should be pretty close to centred and tightening the nut should lock it in place. Considering that you don't intend running at high speed it should work fine.

My first thought was "they don't know what they're talking about!" Unless they had that motor specifically made for them (unlikely, as it's similar to several other brands for sale on AliExpress) then the shaft will be 15 mm. I also have two generic clutch motors, both a few years old, and both have 15 mm shafts. Like I said, the guy at the shop (who has been in business a long time) said that 15 mm is pretty much a standard shaft size for industrial-type sewing machine motors. Don't take their word for it, remove the pulley and measure the shaft, that way we'll both know.