dikman

What a gold mine of info!! Lots of fascinating reading there, and great for cross-referencing parts maybe. I noticed a reference in photo 8 to a "KSV" model. That is the first reference, other than a youtube vid, to an SV machine (which I have) that I've seen. Are there any other references to SV machines, by any chance?

Dorado, if you want to add a bit of embellishment, try some basic stamping. Once you work out a suitable pattern it can look pretty impressive.

Good for the teeth to, no doubt .

Anybody else wondering just what's in coke besides sugar and water? (I think I'll stick to drinking beer). Personally, I reckon it's the exfoliating glove that's the key .

Son-of-a-gun! Thanks Red Cent, looks just like I was trying to describe, although in the film it still looks like the loop extends a bit further down the back (probably an optical delusion). Nice to know my reasoning was close. Now I just have to make it.

In sheer desperation, I watched the movie again but this time I was only interested in any scenes featuring McQueen's holster. I paused/slo-mo'd at any suitable scene. Unfortunately there isn't one single scene that gives a clear image of the back, but I can sort of extrapolate how it's made from a couple of side views and based on some excellent info that longtooth provided of what is a later, and more complex, Walk and Draw that Anderson made. The holster is made with the mouth of the holster quite a bit below the bottom of the belt, the trigger guard rides on the top of the mouth and the front is cut low, presumably to help the barrel clear the holster. The belt loop folds over the belt and appears to be molded tightly to the belt. It looks like it carries on down the back of the holster, past the mouth and stops about half-way down the length of the holster (which isn't that far as it's designed for a shorter barrel than the 7 1/2" that McQueen uses). Although on longtooth's model there is a skirt it uses three Chicago screws , in a triangular pattern, below the belt line and I'm guessing that this one would be similar in the way that the belt loop is attached to the back of the holster. The top two screws would probably be very close to the bottom of the belt line to keep the holster in place and stop it sliding around. On his later models Anderson used a cutout in the belt to locate the holster in place, but I couldn't see any sign of this in the movie. The belt itself may have a slight hip shaping to it, but I can't be sure as if it has it's very slight. Please feel free to add to and/or correct any of this if anyone knows for sure that I'm wrong in any of my assumptions.

Looks great to me. I tend to like relatively plain holsters, and yours is nice - simple and functional.

The more you learn, the more you realize how much more there is to learn........ Belt looks great, you're off to a good start.

Now that's a thread hijack! (Cool buckle, by the way).

Very nice job, Langston. The flag design is different and, to my eyes, well executed.

G'day plinker, yep, I've made a couple of rigs for fellow club members, a bit more elaborate than mine and for shorter barrelled revolvers. They seem happy with them, but if you see my other thread (McQueen) I'm heading off on a slightly different tangent now and looking at things differently. My long-barrelled revolvers are a slight handicap, so I need to re-consider the holster design (I'm also contemplating removing the front sights so they can't catch on the holster).

I figured there had to be a reason that you made them like you did, Red Cent. From what I could see in the movie, on McQueen's holster the back flap appears to finish just under the belt and doesn't extend down, as in a skirt. I've only made three pairs of holsters thus far, and all have been what I might term fairly conventional. This thread, and the info I've gleaned thus far (thanks to longtooth and Red Cent) have given me a whole new insight into making holsters. Lots of thinking going on in what passes for my brain.........

Nice rigs, Red Cent, but the back of McQueen's holster is different to yours, the belt-loop fold-over on his is shorter and folded in tight to the belt. It also appears to be attached to the holster immediately under the belt, to hold the holster rigidly in place. This detail is what I can't find. Longtooth sent me some photos of what I suspect is a later holster and I can make an educated guess, based on how Andersen made this one. But it would be nice to get it right. Might have to borrow the movie again and watch carefully for any shots of the holster.

Now that is nice work! Yep, two of mine I can't tilt back. One I have to loosen the reducer to slacken the belt (no big deal) and the other (post-bed) machine doesn't have hinges and is too tall to tilt anyway, so I just lift it out bodily!.

Alex, I doubt if the coke will do anything, but by all means try it and let us know. (They took all the "good" stuff out of coke years ago, now it's only flavoured sugar water). As Darren said, 0000 steel wool, which is pretty mild stuff, used with kero or WD40, might be as good as you can do. If it doesn't do much with the stains at least it will remove any oily coating.

Don't worry about it, mate. My first effort was an open steel frame, sandwiching the bearings between plates, and a wooden pulley I made myself. There's a photo somewhere on one of my threads about the Singer (51K59). Looked pretty crude, but it worked! We all have to start somewhere, and it's only by making things that we learn (and get more ideas!). You've got one big advantage over me when I started - you've picked up pulleys, shafts and bearings so have lots of stuff to play with. And remember, as long as it works for you is all that matters.

Yep, although they call it a "de-corroder". After a bit of searching I found that the active ingredient is Citric Acid, which can be bought pretty cheap at supermarkets etc. Nothing special about it, I use Citric Acid to clean my brass cartridges in my tumbler. The main problem, in this case, is that it is a very slow process because it's such a mild cleaner. It's pretty difficult to get it to stay put on vertical surfaces so it can react with the rust, generally these sort of cleaners work best when the object can be immersed in the cleaner.

Thanks Uwe, but the final product is pretty rough when you get up close! I figured it doesn't need to be a work-of-art as long as it's functional. I've noticed that you seem to have a knack for engineering some pretty nice things, so I'm interested in what you can come up with regarding pulley reducers. Mine is based on pretty standard procedures for making these things (fixed/clamped bearings, as you point out), but if you can come up with a "floating" type it may prove better, as there's less chance of clamping things out of alignment. The interesting thing with this one is the speed. I'm using a "standard" Consew clutch motor, and the needle speed is now very slow and feathering the clutch makes very little difference. This is on my post-bed Singer, with wheel rather than feet, and I just managed to snap a needle most convincingly while trying it on 1/4" leather!!! This machine does not like thickish leather, I've found, the roller wheel seems prone to causing a slight needle deflection on anything but thin leather.

I'm sorry, thunter, are you referring to me? If so, I'm well aware of Renaissance Wax, and have been for many years. It was primarily developed for coating blades - swords, knives etc - for display purposes in museums. It is sometimes used by knifemakers/bladesmiths.Some museums have used it to try and preserve leather book bindings, but have found that it can cause long-term problems on leather. On metal, however, it does work well. If you're suggesting to use it to try and remove rust stains, then it's worth a try, I guess (although it does tend to be on the pricey side) but I doubt it will be any better than a good quality wax-based polish. It is intended to be a preservative, not a cleaner (although it does contain white spirits, a solvent).

OLDNSLOW, this is a photo of the latest one I built (just for ideas?). I used a piece of black pipe that was fractionally bigger than the bearings, cut a slot down it with an angle grinder and welded lugs to it so that it can be tightened up on to the bearings. The vertical pieces have slots cut to give some adjustment and one piece is welded to the pipe and the other to the bottom piece. The shaft was turned down in two steps, one for the bearings and the other for the 3/4" needed for the pulleys (the big pulley was too big so I had to turn a sleeve to fit the shaft). This was a bit of messing around, but I was trying to use whatever I had lying around, so cost was $0. The large pulley, coupled with two small ones (one on the motor) had a dramatic effect on the speed!!!

Thor, at the risk of being berated for keeping off-topic, I have no idea what GT85 is, never heard of it out here. Dupont Teflon spray was brought into the country some time ago but was discontinued. When queried about it by people constantly looking for it they were told that there was no demand for it so wouldn't bring it in! As for Johnson's Paste Wax, many have looked for an equivalent but again, there is nothing that is quite the same out here (I have compared the MSDS on many products and can't find a match). With regard to the OP, rust stains can be a problem due to the fact that they often get into the paint surface. Sometimes they can be polished off, but with anything other than kerosene/WD40 type stuff you run the risk of the paint lifting too. Electrolysis is a good way to remove rust without damaging the metal, but if the rust is under the paint then again the paint will probably lift.

Already been to that site, lots of good info but no help to me. Longtooth, that would be great! I'll send you my email address. I've read a lot about Andy Andersen, and his holsters/belts, and seen lots of photos - but nothing about the back of the holster. I could make it up, of course, and just do my own thing, but it would be nice to "get it right" in homage to the man. Unfortunately, I will have to make the holster a little longer than the McQueen version as while I have long-barreled revolvers I don't particularly want to remove the front sights (which will probably catch on a shorter holster).

I'd like to make a copy of the rig used by McQueen in The Magnificent Seven. The only problem I have is with the rear of the holster as I haven't been able to find any photos of it (they all show the front!). It appears that the holster is basically one piece, with the belt loop (shank?) folding over the belt and is then attached to the back of the holster. So, how is it attached, what shape is the rear piece and how far down does it extend? Anyone know?

My apologies, hyttogpine, it was my interpretation that was wrong. And don't feel bad, I was told by my language teacher, many many years ago, that English is actually the hardest language to learn, so you're doing well. I, too, wonder why some don't include their country .

hyttogpine, it's helpful to know where someone is from when offering advice and/or help, because there are many products that, while common in one country (the USA in particular) aren't available outside that country. For example, Johnson's Floor Wax is widely referred to on model-making forums, shooting forums, woodworking forums, just to name a few, but it is impossible to get here in Australia. DuPont Teflon spray is very popular amongst motorcyclists for lubing chains, but again it can't be bought here. If we know where a member is from, then hopefully information can be given that is relevant to that person.