dikman

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/thomastown/sewing-machines/seiko-industrial-leather-sewing-machine/1090045715 This is the link to the ad, shows the machine a bit better. If it's only the timing then $350 is a bargain for Australia! There is also a Juki LU-563 which is a bit closer but a lot dearer - $950. (It's going to cost me about $200 to get either one, so I have to take that into account). I'm guessing that both machines are pretty similar in their capabilities?

Here's a challenge for the more knowledgeable on here - what model Seiko is this? A woman is selling it on behalf of her parents, who had a leather business and closed up. There's no model number on it (her mom said it fell off and she didn't bother putting it back) and the woman knows nothing about sewing machines. When I asked if it was a walking foot she had no idea what I was talking about, so I got her to send a couple of photos - and it is. She was asking $650, but said she has dropped it to $350 because she just found out from her mom that it has a timing problem! It sounds promising, BUT it's located interstate, so it's a 2-day return trip to get it. Decisions, decisions.......

Thanks Colt, I must admit I was thinking in terms of flat surfaces. What you say makes sense, although it will obviously depend on what type of superglue it is, as I've found some are definitely better than others! Metric 20 is pretty close to 138 thread, so his needle size is pretty much what's recommended.

I wouldn't have thought superglue would have much effect, as in my experience it doesn't usually like sticking to most plastics (polyester). Skin, on the other hand...... I've started burning the ends with a soldering iron, using a very fine tip. It melts it and pushes it into the hole at the same time.

Update: I used it to pre-punch the holes on a belt, two layers of 4-5 oz veg and a 21 needle, all the way around the edges, and while it did it the drive belts occasionally slipped. I'm using neoprene rubber and there's too much stretch in it, so I cobbled together a rough setup using some odd v-belts that were lying around. What a difference!! It now punches through 1/4" of hard veg (same needle) at very slow speed with no trouble at all! Looks like I'm going to have to re-jig my pulley system a bit. Although thinking about it, I reckon what I really need is a smallish gearbox on the shaft of the motor. Silverback, if you order one I suggest you request the smaller pulley (just in case).

I'm curious to see just what model it is. Definitely a walking foot, non-computerized and also fairly old I'm guessing.

Pretty impressive, particularly the 9mm. Shows what you can do if you have lots of torque. I suspect that using a "standard" needle may have helped, as it probably slid through the leather a bit easier.

That closeup makes it look like you're winding rope! Still waiting for you to say what the music is.

I like it, got me thinking (I have a spare motor from a garage roller door, although it might be a bit of overkill!). I watched it a couple of times, just so that I could listen to the music - beautiful.

Thanks Bob. I would consider 69 thread to be a bit limiting. It's obviously not much use for heavier gunbelts?

Nearly as good as McGyver .

Definitely a Juki, he said he bought the pair together and spent a heap getting the straight stitch working. I've asked him to check the model number.

You might be right. Just when I thought I was beginning to understand thread sizes..........

Amazing bit of work, Uwe. Thanks for doing it. Having spent what seems like hours messing around with needle/hook settings, in order to understand what actually happens down there, it's great to see it happening.

http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?shipCountry=AU&shipFromCountry=au&shipCompanies=&SearchText=sewing+machine+servo+motor&exception=&minPrice=&maxPrice=&minQuantity=&maxQuantity=&isFreeShip=y&isFavorite=n&isRtl=n&isOnSale=n&isBigSale=n&similar_style=n&similar_style_id=&isAtmOnline=n&CatId=0&initiative_id=SB_20150921145713&needQuery=y I've refined the search to free shipping and Australia delivery. If you look at the various models in the listing, the same unit comes without the needle positioner for $201 (just went up a couple of $). They also have a 750 watt (1 hp) for $244 (no needle positioner). It may depend what they have in stock in the local warehouse, as I originally wanted the version with the controller mounted on the motor, but when I tried to put in the order it said it wasn't available. Which turned out to be good, as I prefer what I've got. The standard pulley in Australia is 75mm, which is actually more than adequate for my needs - but I do have a pulley reduction system fitted, so I doubt if the smaller one is needed. If you want the smaller one, make a note in the comments section when you place the order. Just make sure that you select the 220v model, not the 110v!

Thanks Eric, that's what I suspected. The fact he hasn't used it for quite a while means he's probably confused about the model. I'll let him know that he'll have to check the number on it (but he's adamant that it's a walking foot).

Regarding the original question, I do neither - I run the work (very slowly) through a sewing machine, without thread. This gives me even hole spacing, straight lines, is quicker than manually marking/punching and makes it much easier to get the awl through. Sticks, if you're referring to Metric 20 thread, I would think that would look like rope on a watch strap!

Is there such a model? I haven't had much success searching on that model number, so hope someone can help out. A chap is selling his two machines, a Juki DDL 555 straight stitch and he thinks the other is a DDL 554. It's in storage at his folks, so he's going to have a look at it. He said it's a walking foot, with about a 20mm lift on the foot. He didn't use it much, apparently, he mostly used the straight stitcher.

As I mentioned, my motor came with the large (3") pulley, and I asked for the smaller one instead. The small one arrived today, via courier from China, only took 4 days. Value of the pulley, $1, shipping cost $?? Pretty impressive service. I thought it would be 2", but it's about 1 3/4".

Your eyes do appear to have a slightly glazed look..... . (Many many years ago I made a wooden carrying case for a rifle and lined it with foam. I learned what happens if you spend too long leaning over the stuff while using contact glue! Wheee..... .

Some photos. I've played around with it a bit more, and I'm very pleased with it. I've probably been pushing my machine past what it's designed for, so any issues have been due to that. I tried a size 21 needle, with 138 thread, and got it through 1/4" of leather, although it balked a couple of times due to the hardness of the leather, the main problem being that one of the belts started slipping (the motor kept going). No problems with torque. I slowed the start speed setting even more, and it will now walk very slowly right from startup. I've also reduced the top speed, as I don't need a machine that sews at light speed!! Considering its size (it's only a fraction of the size and weight of the Singer clutch monster that it replaced) I'm very impressed. Silverback, unless the main shaft end of your machine is threaded to take a bolt, you won't be able to use the synchronizer, so I'd just buy one without it and save $50. I don't see the lack of it as being a problem, due to the much improved slow speed control.

Silverback, I did a search on AliExpress.com (the Chinese equivalent of ebay) and came up with this - http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20150921145713&SearchText=sewing+machine+servo+motor. The first one is the one I bought. There are others slightly cheaper, but this lot (Lishui Skyrit import and export) ship from an Australian warehouse, took 6 days from Sydney to Adelaide, which is pretty good for Australia Post!

My Chinese servo motor just arrived. Yay. I didn't get it until pretty late in the day, but couldn't wait to hook it up and see what happened. I was a wee bit concerned, as even though it's rated at 500 watts it's pretty small (but then, the DC motor on my vertical mill is small, but works very well). I turned it on and nothing blew up, which is always a good start! I have a pulley reduction system on the machine, but even with that it seemed to start with a bit of a lurch - not quite what I expected, so I figured I should read what passes for a manual. Quite a few parameters to fiddle with, but it turns out that most are only effective if the needle synchronization is used. I worked out what a couple probably do and reduced the setting on one and lo and behold, it started very slowly. Much nicer. I tried putting pressure on the handwheel and it didn't have any effect, so it looks like it's got gobs of torque. I called it quits until tomorrow when I will try it on some leather. I spent the extra to get one with the needle synchronization, but unfortunately it turns out I can't use that feature on my machine. The synchronization "module" is designed to mount on the end of the main shaft, but because mine has the stitch length adjuster in the centre of the handwheel there's no way I can fit it!! It also came with a 3" pulley, but I had asked for the 2" instead. They said that the Australian warehouse only has 3" versions, so they are sending me a 2" via courier. I'll post a couple of photos tomorrow and let y'all know how it goes with some leather. I'm feeling cautiously optimistic.

I won't start a discussion on Japanese swords, but yes, they have been described as the pinnacle of sword making. As for the boxcutter, if it works for you that's all that matters. I have found that cutting leather, particularly thicker stuff, is a lot different to cutting other materials, and some of the implements that I thought would work have proven to be quite inadequate. I now have an odd assortment of blades that I use - Stanley knife, el-cheapo box cutter, cheap "hobby knife" kit off ebay that will take scalpel blades, disposable scalpels, Olfa rotary thing and basically anything else that I find that might work. Best thing I've found, though, is using the strop that I made - it makes a heck of a difference to blades that are used to cut leather. All good fun.

Thanks ferg, it's a bit of an experiment. The servo is from China, price was good, so I'm curious to see how it will perform. As for the other machines, I don't really need a walking foot machine (but another toy would be nice to have!!) so I'll just keep looking and if I miss out I won't loose any sleep over it. There are lots of industrial sewers for sale, some at very good prices, but they are all straight stitchers. Unless I can find a compound walking foot there's no point buying anything else.