dikman

I would say that they must have an electrical connection somewhere on the needle bar. You won't get very good conductivity via the oil that the bar should be running in, and as you say any arcing would be an issue. I'm still trying to figure out what use it would be

Blast! Just when I thought I had it sorted you guys come along and say it should work! Looks like a bit more experimenting is in order. Just a thought, are you chaps referring to older models or newer ones? (Don't know what differences there might be between them). JLS, that's exactly what I'm doing! I used the WSV77 to run the holes around the edge, which makes it much easier (and neater) to use the awl and needles. I must admit that I had reservations about using #138 thread, but because I had the machines I figured I should use them. I feel happier knowing I'll have more substantial thread on the holster itself. (I used the WSV77 because I can get down to 4 1/2 spi, the other machines will only go to 6 1/2 spi).

Thanks Bob, I wondered if there was something in the design causing the problem. While I realise that it operates differently to the 211 (horizontal vs vertical shuttle, for one thing) I don't have the depth of knowledge of these things to understand the subtleties involved. It works fine with #69, so I'll leave it at that (and at least I know why it's happening, which is the main thing). Eric, I went to a lot of trouble getting the timing right. I guess doubling the thread size could require re-adjustments, but in this case, based on what Bob said, there's not much point messing around with it. Even if I got it working it sounds like it might not be reliable for long runs. But thanks for the advice, it's all useful info. I'd already come to the conclusion that I'll probably have to hand stitch it and this just confirms it. I'll save the machines for belts, I guess.

I'm making another holster (for a single action revolver), so this time I figured I should use my machines rather than hand stitch. I reckon that #138 thread will look a bit better than #69 (realistically #138 is the heaviest my machines will probably handle). I wanted to use the Pfaff 335, because I'll need the cylinder arm to do part of it, but it just doesn't seem to like #138!! After a few stitches the top thread is snagging somewhere down below and cutting a couple of strands - not good. I tried with #138 top and bottom, #138 on top and #69 on the bottom but it still happens. I tried a size 16 needle (yes, I know, it's too small but I had to try everything I had), size 18 and size 22 but it still happens. I then tried the 211G166, and that worked fine with the heavier thread and size 18 needle - but the flat bed won't let me stitch the holster when it's folded over (because the edge of the holster doesn't sit flat). Has anyone used #138 on a Pfaff 335? The machine's got plenty of grunt behind it, it's just the thread it doesn't like! The only options I can come up with are 1) hand stitch it (no big deal, it's a lot smaller than doing a belt) or 2) machine stitch as much as I can and then hand stitch the folded double edge - but I would have to use the #138 thread for uniformity. At the moment I'm tending towards 1.

I agree about the dashed lines, Art. That is what's so confusing. Ordinarily, dashed lines like that on a cct., as you said earlier, would indicate that there is something else in cct. and/or that they go via some other equipt (or that it may be a temporary connection). In this particular case that's not happening, so I'm perplexed as to why they used them. I'm blowed if I can think of a (sensible) reason for them.

This has got me intrigued. I'm not convinced that the dotted lines indicate another switch box (or something) - if that were the case I would expect some sort of indication on the drawing. Also, every other cct. that I've seen that switches out the cap/start winding at the very least shows a contact in that part of the cct. whereas this doesn't. So, I got my spare Consew motor and removed the back cover (where the leads go in). Four wires disappeared into the motor body, a cap was mounted at the back with two wires also heading inside. I looked through the cooling slots, no centrifugal switch. Inside the switch box the four wires were connected as pairs to the line side. I separated the wires and did some testing with a meter. It's wired the same as the earlier diagram, i.e. two wires to one coil (run) and two wires to the start coil via a cap. I started it, but couldn't hear any centrifugal switch, but to be sure I removed the flywheel at the front - no switch. This one is wired as per the OP's diagram, with the start cct. permanently connected. Not ideal, imo, bit it works and it's obviously cheaper to make. Lovetolearn, as has been said earlier, replace the cap with the same value. If the motor is running fine, with only the direction being an issue then that's all that's wrong. Without the cap it's simply freewheeling at the start and you have a 50:50 chance which direction it will choose to run.

1. If the cap is bulging it's shot. 2. That cct. diagram doesn't indicate a switch or relay, as far as I can see 3. I would think it a little unusual to use a relay in motor like this, seems unnecessarily complicated. 4. If there's no centrifugal switch (the usual way to switch out a start cap) then the cap and start winding are connected all the time. Apparently it's a cheap way to start a motor, as long as it's only a small HP motor. Not the best, imo, but can be done that way. 5. Replace the cap with the same value, stand back and turn it on.

I've noticed the same thing with my servos, if I can increase the minimum speed setting of the motor while keeping the overall speed of the machine low then it runs smoother.

In my case I have servos and speed reducers on two machines and a servo and 8" pulley replacing the handwheel on the third. I wouldn't say that it's a remakable difference with these combos, but it is noticeable. (I figure it all helps). There is another factor, in my case - the settings in the servos affect the performance, if I set the max speed low then this also makes the lowest speed correspondingly slower. So lots of options.

In the second photo the stitching on the inside of the belt looks a bit uneven? The outside looks good, though. For a first effort I reckon you've done very well, tackling a pair of holsters and belt for a first project is what's known as "jumping in the deep end"! (I did the same thing!!). It's amazing how much you can learn from the first project. You will only get better......

I have 45 mm pulleys on my machines (I think that may be the smallest available). They came from the motor supplier in China, so I reckon a search on ebay should turn them up. They are 15 mm keyed, which appears to be a standard shaft size.

Nope, no slack, everything is adjusted correctly. I know it should work ok, but the needle only needs the slightest deflection and it hits the plate (size 100 needle). I'm not too worried about it at the moment, as I have three walking foot machines and a straight stitcher, which should cover everything I intend to do - for now. I'll probably look at it again some time in the future.

Very nice. For some reason I'm not a fan of basketweave on leather (don't really know why), but I have to admit yours is very nicely done, and yes, the borders I like.

Mottling suggests to me that the colours either aren't mixing properly or aren't staying completely mixed and are separating out?

Just watched your video Vinculus, nice work. Mine can go a bit slower than that, if I want. I'm impressed with your post-bed/wheel foot operation, I've given up on mine (for now) because if I put any pressure on the material while it's feeding the needle deflects, hits the needle plate and it's bye bye needle! Out of curiosity, what size needle are you using?

Banjo, this is lifted from an older thread - "Hi Skylark, this is the place I bought mine from, mainly because they had a warehouse here in Australia - If you go to www.aliexpress.com and search on sewing machine motor you'll find lots and lots. Many are the same motor, just different stores, and the prices will vary of course. Spend some time getting familiar with what's available as they come in 110v and 220v and hp varies too. Mine are 550w, roughly 3/4 hp. Edit: blast, I had to delete part of the address 'cos it linked to my account!! The company I used is Lishiu Skyrit Import and Export." See how you go, if you have trouble finding them let me know. Just make sure you're looking at 220v versions. My last one was the 750w model and was around $200 delivered. These have the controller box separate from the motor.

Banjo, I've fitted three servos to my machines, 2x550w and 1x750w. While I ordered them online via Ali-express (Chinese ebay), the company has a warehouse in NSW so delivery is within Australia, not from China. Only drawback is they come with 75mm pulleys, but I requested a smaller one and they sent me, at no charge, 45mm pulleys from China. The shaft and pulleys are 15mm, which as Darren mentioned elsewhere is pretty standard on Chinese motors and pulleys. On one of my machines, a Pfaff 335, I fitted a large 8" pulley in place of the handwheel and with this combination I can walk this very slowly. On a recent belt I made I used it to follow pencilled guide lines to stitch a pattern in the belt. It was actually quite nerve-wracking, as I hadn't tried doing this before. The "standard" range of pulleys that appear to be sold for sewing machines (on Ali-express/ebay) appear to only go up to 120mm, so I had to adapt a larger one that I had in my spares box. And yes, this is probably the best place around for info/help/advice on industrial sewing machines.

It shouldn't be too hard to find a suitable pulley, just find a place that sells pulleys and ask for one with the diameter you want, with the correct profile for your v-belt and the correct shaft diameter (which I'd say is 1/2"). You'll need one with locking screws/bolts.

Hmm, mine doesn't have a spring (didn't know it was supposed to have one!). I'll have to look into it, although it works fine without it. The peg is somewhere to rest the machine head against when you tilt it back to lube/adjust it.

Brushes? I suppose it could have, but my experience with AC motors is that they're squirrel-cage type induction motors, so no brushes (not including the small ones used in power tools etc, which usually have brushes). The clutches usually are flat cork-faced devices, it could be that the cork and opposing face need cleaning. The two pulleys you mention would certainly help, but to tame a clutch motor you will probably need a speed reducer too. By the time you add up the possible fix to the motor, plus pulleys and speed reducer you'll probably find it's better value getting a servo. This will give you the best possible control, particularly for leather.

No need to apologize, industrial machines are a pretty specialized field and I wouldn't expect anyone to know much about them if they don't use them. (That was me a few months ago, btw). Find a manual for it and try and understand how it works and how to adjust it. That way you may be able to sell it as a working machine.

And he would know how? Unless he's tried it there's no way he could know what condition it's in. There's an awful lot of things that can go wrong with these machines - rusted up inside, broken bits, incorrectly adjusted parts, badly worn parts just to name a few. I recently picked up a machine (free) that turned ok by hand, and looked good, but the shuttle was so badly worn that there was no way it was going to sew. I only found this out by dismantling it once I got it home (glad I didn't actually pay anything for it). If you can't even tell buyers that it sews ok then it's essentially good for spares only, or possibly refurbishing, either of which is the low end of the market.

My first thought would be to replace the capacitor (the designation suggests it's a cap start?).

ratty, good luck with finding detail drawings - it's a pretty good effort just finding user manuals/parts lists for many of these machines! I have British, German and US machines and it's a nightmare trying to figure out threads and find suitable screws. I can understand why someone would re-tap them for modern "standard" threads (I've been tempted myself a couple of times).

Very impressive bit of work, Uwe. (Don't take this the wrong way, but the closeup of the thumb dial isn't pretty (!) and the soldering on the next one looks a bit so-so (or is that just the photo?)). Nothing personal, I just tend to notice these things.