dikman

Looks very nice, LumpenDoodle. I was wondering why someone would want the holster soft. My research thus far has shown that most "original" holsters of the Old West were indeed soft leather, as they were intended to enclose and protect a gun (a fast draw didn't seem to be a concern). The modern need (single action shooting etc), however, really requires a very stiff holster, shaped to the gun and with very little retention (like you appear to be making). So I'm a bit puzzled. Lots of neatsfoot oil will definitely soften it, but could also turn it into a shapeless lump! If someone wants a soft holster the best way is probably to use thin leather with no lining?

I'm with mike and Uwe, looks like it could be more trouble than it's worth. Plus because of its age some of those components could be a bit suspect (old capacitors, for example, tend to dry out over time). If you want a needle positioning system I reckon you'd be better off buying a servo with the NPS option. I did that, but found that I was better off without it, as the slow speed of the servo gave me sufficient control. An interesting device, however.

For what you want to sew the 211 will be more than adequate, and reverse really does make life easier.

Looks like all they've done is mount their "B" version to a small thick wooden board and mounted a typical servo motor behind it. I think Uwe made a similar setup for one of his machines. If it's anything like my Pfaff 335 while it could be considered "portable" (as in not being attached to a table) it's going to be a heavy lump to move around!

Jimmy, I buy my (industrial) needles from Elizabeth Machines (were Capron Carter) here in Adelaide. I'm sure there would be an equivalent place in Brissy. As for thread, the only place I could find heavy machine thread is at a leather supply place. My 335 is happy with Metric 40 (#69) and will go up to Metric 20 (#138). I use polyester/cotton and straight bonded polyester. If all else fails you can get thread via ebay. Make sure to get a few spare bobbins too, so you can keep some wound. I slowed mine down with a servo and a large pulley on the head unit and it has a surprising amount of grunt!

Probably just one of many such companies that we don't hear/know about until someone finds them. A pretty impressive array of products, including assorted spare feet/feed dogs. With such a range they're obviously not some backyard operation. If you're getting them through a dealer then you would be getting a warranty? The first one looks interesting, handling 20mm thickness is pretty nice, the second one is obviously a direct copy of a Pfaff. IF the price was right I'd probably give it serious thought - but can the dealer help you out with setting them up if you have problems? Or will you be on your own? A good price isn't much use if you can't get them working, and the last one in particular, with all the electronics is not something you want if you can't get support.

Glad it worked out ok.

I was about to ask the same thing re-price. Looks like it might be pretty good for holsters/gunbelts, given the thread size. The only real issue with mine is the presser foot, the teeth on it are pretty vicious!!! I had intended making a new foot, but not long after buying it the electric machines came along () so they've kept me rather busy. Still, it is rather tempting.....

346? I reckon that's pretty impressive! I just found their website and they have a couple of interesting machines, also down the bottom of the page it says Paypal.

Hockeymender, much like my experience with the smaller version, I spent a fair bit of time smoothing some of the castings (sliding parts) and generally did a bit of tidying up and modifying slightly, but it's a pretty solid little machine overall. What size thread did you get up to on yours?

From the sound of it you've removed the necessary screws. My Singers have two set screws recessed into the pulley grooves, it seems to be a fairly common method used by Singer. One of my wheels was also pretty tight, and took a fair bit of force from the puller to break it free. If the screws have been over-tightened they can cause a slight flaring on the shaft, which can jam things a bit. If you use heat don't worry about damaging the shaft, it will take a lot more heat than you can likely generate to do that, just be careful of the bearings behind the wheel, as mentioned only heat the wheel.

Olie, I have several old machines, all of which have required varying degrees of work and parts to get working. I have probably been lucky in that none of them have required junking. Unless you're mechanically inclined, and enjoy the challenge of keeping a (probably) very old machine going then I would advise caution if considering a used machine. At the price you're talking about you'd be far better off buying new (or almost new) from a reputable dealer. It could save you a lot of grief.

I too bought a plasma cutter some time ago. There are many for sale on ebay, locally and direct from China. I ended up buying one from a company in another state, turns out the owner went to the trouble of finding a factory in China who could build to his specs and had excellent QC. He regularly visits to follow up production. I found that the power cord was too short for my needs (I suggested to the seller that they consider making them longer) so opened it up to change the cord. I was pleasantly surprised at the build quality, it was very well put together. As Mike SC said, they can make excellent gear.

Hi Jennifer, there is a sticky at the top by Wiz that is an excellent introduction/explanation about industrial leather machines. There is a lot to digest, and it's a steep learning curve (well, it was for me) but it could help you figure out what will suit you best and hopefully keep you from buying the wrong thing. (Be aware that many advertise machines as "industrial" when in reality they are far from it). As Uwe said it sounds like a compound feed cylinder arm might be the best option - but just how thick do you want to sew?

For what it's worth, I bought a replacement hook for my Singer 331K4, the hook was obviously not original but was the correct replacement part and was bought from a reputable company. It would not work and was so tight at one point in the rotation that it was scary! I eventually worked out that I had to grind out metal from beneath the hook itself, in the "web" below the hook. Then it worked. Just pointing out that even though a part is "made" for a machine they can still cause problems with these old machines., so assume nothing!

I note that Cowboy Bob's instructions above state that the default (as shipped) direction for the motor is reverse - as the two gentlemen on here appear to have confirmed.

You want bonded polyester thread. Most common size is #69 but it may go to #138 if you're lucky. Anything larger than that needs a heavy duty machine.

"E = reverse, P = Normal". Should be obvious to anyone, perfectly logical - NOT!

2" should be fine, I wouldn't bother trying to get a smaller one 'cos it won't be much smaller!

If you want to sew as slow as possible then always fit the smallest you can, as mike said. With the reducer that you already have fitted, however, even a 3" should still be fine.

A bit strange that they don't accept credit cards or Paypal, probably the two most common methods of payment on the 'net. They would be doing themselves out of a bit of business, I reckon. Pity, as it looks like it might go through holster thickness! It looks like a bigger/heftier version of mine (mine takes domestic-type needles and the bobbin is pretty small so not much good for heavier thread).

Sandy, that photo is the only one I could find that had a decent view of the thread path.I realise it's different in the base to yours, but I'm assuming they made variations of the machine for different uses? As for the 17 being the long arm version of the 8, I'm only repeating what I came across in my searching. I couldn't find a manual or parts list for the 8, and only a parts list for the 17 (at Hendersonsewing.com). Can you post a closeup photo of the area around the tensioner assembly? It's intriguing as it's different to my machines.. Judging by the lack of responses there doesn't seem to be much info around about the 17.

I was wondering about that bit myself, but looking at the photos I don't see any other way of threading it. I found a parts list for your machine, but no manual. I did find, however, that it's the long-arm version of the 133K8, and Constabulary mentioned in an older post that he had a manual for it. Send him a PM to see if it's still available. I just found this image of a 133K8, which shows the threading. You may be right about the angle of the thread, this one appears to have an arm of some kind extending above the tensioner. Will have to compare the parts lists to make any sense of it.

Well, based on other machines I have the threading looks right to me?

Yes, I found an edge guide to be indispensable on anything longer than a couple of inches!! Actually, I reckon it looks good (bottom too) and once it's dyed and finished off it'll probably look even better!