dikman

I hadn't actually thought of it from that perspective, I was only going to do it temporarily just to run it. Hmmm. The only problem I have is that on that particular table I fitted a pulley reducer underneath so it's a bit of messing around changing things. I might have to modify the reducer adjustment to make it quicker to change over, I reckon that will work. It will also save space in not having to fit in another table. Plus that table's fitted with a servo. Thanks for the idea guys.

I downloaded a parts list for a 152 and it certainly appears to match up. I also realised that the handwheel has been fitted back-to-front (!) and figured out how the adjustments for the stitch length adjuster work, so backed it off a fraction and now it's much easier to adjust. I've also realised that the base plate is the same size as the 211G that I have, so I should be able to swap this one onto the table and get it working.

Good idea about the clutch system. I reckon if I weld the rear freewheeling pulley to the adjacent pulley stack then it should work as a speed reducer. I spent a fair bit of time on it today and it's looking good. The first thing I did was lubricate everything that looked like it would move, using ATF. Before anyone jumps on me, I used that because I wanted something that would lubricate but was very thin in order to work its way into the bearing surfaces. Once it's "soaked" for a while I'll work some heavier oil into it. Basically, everything is working as it should, although the stitch length adjustment is very tight so I've been working extra lube into the mechanism. While the paint finish is chipped and worn that's to be expected, but most of the rust is fairly light surface stuff. The needle bar and presser feet cleaned up ok with steel wool, but the worst are the two plates next to the feed plate with some pitting on them (bit they're still usable). Timing appears to be correct. The thread tension assembly needed a bit of work. There was minimal rusting and it cleaned up well, but the thread takeup spring had been butchered by someone. I used a spare from a domestic machine that I'd pulled apart and it only needed tweaking slightly with a pair of pliers (it's surprising the similarity there is between some of the domestic and industrial parts in Singer machines). The tension release didn't work when the presser foot was lifted and at first I thought the operating rod was worn, but that didn't make any sense. Further investigation showed that the lever arm at the rear wasn't lifting enough to push on the rod. I couldn't see any obvious adjustment so a bit of judicious bending with a pair of pliers fixed that. I also had to bend the lever arm on the rear of the tension assembly plate - now it works. Now I just need to make a replacement thread guide and that's it until I can get a table for it.

Can you remove the existing motor pulley and measure the shaft? I thought most of the motors these days use the same size shaft (15 mm, I think) - all of mine are the same size with a key on the shaft and held on by a big nut. If it is that type then you can pick up a smaller pulley off ebay - I'm using 45 mm on my motors.

Got it home. As I thought, the table is a home-made job, made from 1" square tube, and the top is 1/2" particle board! She didn't really want the table left, so I figured the 1" tube is always useful and I'll junk the top. The motor is an ordinary, garden variety 1/4 HP thing, but the interesting bit was the clutch/pulley fitting (see last photo). Don't know what I can use it for, but it's different..... To the machine itself. It actually looks to be in pretty good condition. There is surface rust around the needle bar/presser feet, but the insides and underneath are pretty rust-free - but barely a trace of oil anywhere!!!!! I'll have to strip the needle bar area to clean it up, but the rest looks like all it needs is a good oiling. As you can see from the label, it's definitely part of the 111 class, the W indicates it's made at Bridgeport (confirmed, I reckon, by the Made in USA on top), The SV I mentioned in the first post, but the model no. 77 has me beat. I would welcome any help on this one. In the meantime, can any of you highly knowledgeable chaps relate the photos to any other 111 machines? At least then I'll know which manual to get for it. And it's definitely a compound feed. The thread tensioner assembly needs a bit of work on it and it looks like something has broken off just above it and to the right - there is a stub of shaft/bolt just showing. I'll keep my eyes open for a cheap machine just to get a suitable table to use, in the meantime I'll clean it up a bit and get some oil into it (poor thing must be dying for a lube job ). Even with having to junk the rest of it, I'm more than happy with the head unit for $150. Edit: I did a bit more digging around and it looks very much like the 111W152, so I downloaded the manual. The stitch length is the same (5spi max.) and it even has the thread lubricating box that's shown in the manual. It's strange that there doesn't seem to be any info on the "SV" designation, other than that one youtube vid.

Yep, I figured it might be pretty old (doesn't even have reverse ). The fact that I can't find any info on it has me intrigued.

I should have added these photos (all I've got for now).

I'll pick it up tomorrow, although I'm still not completely sure just what it is! The seller couldn't quite make out the model number, as it's all pretty grotty, but it sort of looks like it says 111WSV77 - and if anyone can find out anything about this particular model I'll be very impressed! The closest I can find is a youtube reference to a 111WSV71 - but that one is a needle feed, whereas this one appears to be a compound feed. I spent lots of time searching the 'net for any reference to it, and had to get the seller to email me some photos of the foot assembly to confirm it had two feet, needle bar and feed dog (she had no idea what I was talking about). The youtube video made reference to the SV as being "Special Variance", a special model made for the military and being made with extra heavy/hardened materials. If so, it sounds like a good buy for $150 . It's been sitting for a couple of years, but she said that the motor works and the needle moves (always a good start) but it will probably need a good cleaning and lubing. The table appears to be a "home-made" job, all welded square tubing, so I'll have to take an angle grinder to cut the legs off to get it in my car. Hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like it might have a speed reducer fitted too (clutch motor). My wife asked if I really need it, I said in all honesty no, but at that price it's a bargain for a 111 series walking foot.

I'm with TinkerTailor and use a soldering iron with a fine tip. That way I don't have to worry about the flame getting where it shouldn't, it gives very precise control and it's possible to fuse the end to the adjacent thread (if you're careful).

Not to mention the glue for sticking leather......wheeee.......

Further to Wiz's fishing analogy, when I got into fishing many, many years ago I soon learned that there is no one rod/reel for all occasions and ended up building several different style of rods. Being a relative newbie to industrial sewing machines, I spent a lot of time on the Singer post machine that I was given and slowly realised that it was designed for a fairly specific type of sewing, and no matter how much I wanted it to do heavier leather it simply wasn't going to work! I knew I would need another machine, but there was no way I was going to get rid of the one I had. Like the fishing rods, I knew that I would need different machines for different jobs and also knew that if I already had a good machine I'd be pretty stupid to get rid of it. So once you get a good machine, unless you absolutely have to don't get rid of it!!! The down side, unfortunately, is that they take up room so, as Darren said, I got out the hammer and nails (or in this case the impact driver and angle grinder!).

The Weaver motor appears to be an FESM550-type. From my observations, most of the Chinese servos have similar specs and the main differences appear to be in the housing/mounting system used. One thing I found is that my needle positioner won't work with my Chinese digital servo, if I fit a speed reducer as well. No big deal as I simply removed the positioner (I'd rather have the reducer). As you're new to this, Uwe makes great sense when he says to stick with a (known) local vendor as it should give you peace-of-mind with your purchase.

Well spotted, I didn't see that. Guess we'll never really know why it was done.

I must admit that I'm surprised that it's not 15 mm (particularly as it appears to be your basic Chinese servo). We live and learn. The keyway is pretty standard, and is the same on all my Chinese-bought pulleys, plus the locally bought ones (same thing) and also the two generic clutch motor pulleys. As there's only 2 mm difference, you could try some thin sheet tin or aluminium to sleeve the shaft, cutting a slot for the key. If you can get a snug fit then it should be pretty close to centred and tightening the nut should lock it in place. Considering that you don't intend running at high speed it should work fine.

My first thought was "they don't know what they're talking about!" Unless they had that motor specifically made for them (unlikely, as it's similar to several other brands for sale on AliExpress) then the shaft will be 15 mm. I also have two generic clutch motors, both a few years old, and both have 15 mm shafts. Like I said, the guy at the shop (who has been in business a long time) said that 15 mm is pretty much a standard shaft size for industrial-type sewing machine motors. Don't take their word for it, remove the pulley and measure the shaft, that way we'll both know.

To the best of my knowledge they are all the same size. If it is listed for a sewing machine it should be the correct size (my local industrial sewing machine shop told me this). I've ordered several different diameter pulleys from China (ebay) and they are all the same shaft diameter.

What a wife! She deserves a .

Nothing wrong with more toys!! Although.....I started off handstitching, and was pretty happy with that, but one thing led to another and I now have 3 industrial machines and am currently building a shed to put them in (so that I can actually use them!). So be warned.....

Kangaroo? It's relatively thin and tough.

I don't know anything about the Family Sew other than what I've read here, but the price is pretty good for a servo, and if you are likely to be varying the speed a bit then the knob control will be much better than the little push buttons, as Art said. The other one is pretty typical of a plethora of servo motors coming out of China. They seem to be constantly trying different ways of housing them! I wouldn't pay much attention to phrases like "Step Stitching Technology" (what does that really mean?) it sounds to me like a bit of advertising jargon. I bought the optional needle synchronizer with my first servo from China, but took it off. I set it to stop needle down, but found that when I took my foot off the pedal it gave one more stitch so that it could stop needle down. If you don't allow for this when sewing then you end up with an extra stitch. Very annoying. Mine is on a 211G166 and I have also fitted a smaller (1 3/4") pulley to the motor and a speed reduction pulley in order to get the slow speed/torque that I wanted.

Welcome to the wonderful world of industrial sewing machines! I too soon learned that if I didn't hold onto the two threads it created a wonderful mess!

Vinculus, the Chinese servo should be a straight swap for the existing motor (mounting points the same). The only thing you may have to do is buy a replacement belt as the pulley spacing may change slightly. I notice it comes with a 75 mm pulley (most do) but you can pick up a 45 mm replacement pulley pretty cheap on ebay from China. I strongly suggest you consider getting one - I fitted them to my two servos - as it will help with getting the lower speeds. Sandyt, an impressive job with the pulley on the G166. I tried the same thing on mine, but found that the design of the existing handwheel created a problem - the handwheel has a sleeve, for want of a better word, as part of the wheel, that fits inside the main bearing on the head. Without that sleeve I found the main shaft could oscillate, which was not a good thing! So I didn't fit a larger pulley. Curious how you did it.

Sark, I'm guessing that the second photo is the "before"? Either that, or you've gone overboard with the "used look". My three used tables are a bit the worse for wear. I toyed with the idea of refurbishing them, but decided it was more trouble than it was worth. Your idea of picking up a cheap one is actually a good one, and as you point out could be less than the materials required to build one from scratch.

Can't argue with the price, Rayban. Elthoma, that looks like it's meant for winding coils for electronics, judging by the fact it has a counter. Neat idea using a drill chuck.

Being in the good ole US of A as you are, I've no doubt that you won't have too much trouble finding used ones, unfortunately here in Sth Oz they definitely are rare! Nope, not a common mod that I'm aware of, or a flaw. Most users that I've come across use them as is. Whilst it's not exactly a work of art, I actually quite like it because it is so different to anything else I have (very "agricultural").