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dikman

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Everything posted by dikman

  1. dikman
    If you use the right type of RTV silicone for the mold then you could also cast them out of lead. Thanks for the idea - I have some low temp silicone (from when I was messing around with models) and some casting resin so I might have to make up a couple of molds.
  2. dikman
    Sounds like your medication might need changing......
  3. dikman
    Rocky, pm sent.
  4. dikman
    My 335 is very fussy about #138 thread (unfortunately). First one I tried was a braided thread, the hook kept snagging the thread (I suspect it was the braid "opening up" a tiny bit as the loop was formed). Next one was Serafil, a twisted cotton/polyester blend which also snagged, but less often. Last one is a fully synthetic twisted, which still catches occasionally. I've got the hook as close as I can to the needle but it has still proven to be unreliable. I'm still working on it, as there's no reason I can see why it shouldn't work...... It's fine with #69, by the way. I'd suggest you make sure that the hook timing is as good as you can get with the larger needle, hopefully you won't have the troubles I'm having.
  5. dikman
    Now that sounds like a plan, Mark..
  6. dikman
    Thanks cobber, bit more info to file away (just in case).
  7. dikman
    Hey JS, did you use a machine or handstitch them? If it's a machine, how did you get so close to the raised areas and not leave any marks?
  8. dikman
    Thanks Bruno, another member already forwarded that to me (it's the pattern that I was thinking of but couldn't find).
  9. dikman
    Rocky, I like it . (And the beer, of course). Trevor, welcome to the forum, I see you've already found how strangely addictive these old machines are!
  10. dikman
    Yep, wheel puller. I ended up buying one from one of the auto stores that had a sale. I got the small one which only just made it to the wheel rim!! As Constabulary suggested you could use a hammer and block of wood and slowly work your way around the rim, but the puller is a much safer bet. You could make one, but trust me it's worth buying one.
  11. dikman
    Sounds like you've got that part sorted then. I had a chance at buying a Seiko (same model) some time ago. It was interstate, which meant overnight each way but it was a very good deal. Just as I was about to leave I came across the Singer 166 and Pfaff 335 locally, also at good prices, so I let the Seiko go. I wish now that I'd bought it too!
  12. dikman
    Very impressive, Trevor. Now, if you really want to go down in sewing machine history, try and find some manuals for the Singer SV models!
  13. dikman
    Joanna, I would go for the Seiko if money permits (if you're like me it usually doesn't!) as from everything I've read they're a very good machine, but then the Consew's also have a pretty good rep. One thing to keep in mind is that they probably come with clutch motors and most people who are starting out can find them difficult to master if you want slow speed. For that you'll need a servo motor and should allow $$ for that.
  14. dikman
    Now that is very nice work, not too flashy, and a warm glowing finish (if that makes sense).
  15. dikman
    I'm forced to ask ('cos after much searching I can't find it) - anyone made, or have photos/patterns, for cavalry belt-type cartridge pouches? I'm sure I saw something on here but I'm blowed if I can find it.
  16. dikman
    I just realised, looking at the photo, that none of my winders have that "guide bridge" thingy and all seem to work ok without it (although I must admit that sometimes I run the thread through my fingers to guide it).
  17. dikman
    I used a gel-type paint stripper on the wooden stock of a muzzleloader I was restoring, it did a great job of removing the varnish. The Singer 331K4 that I got for free had a different colour on the baseplate, so I used it on that too and it made it real easy to get the paint off. The beauty of the gel stuff is it doesn't flow so it's easy to control where you want it to go. Cleanup is pretty easy, scrape it off then wipe over with water or methylated spirits (denatured alcohol to you Yanks).
  18. dikman
    Good grief! A bit over-the-top for me, but that's a remarkable piece of workmanship. Must say I find the knife far more interesting, though. Nice simple olde-style look about it and the handle looks great.
  19. dikman
    Bob, thanks for that link to the newsletter, I bookmarked it so that I can start working through back issues. Looks good!
  20. dikman
    ThelTMan, see if you can figure out what's causing your allergic reaction - Triethanolamine, TEA Stearate, Sodium Tallowate, Glycerin, Water, Sodium Cocoate, Sodium Ricinoleate, Sodium Oleate, Cocamide MEA, Sodium Stearate, BHT, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Trisodium HEDTA, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Fragrance (Scented option only) (I can't even pronounce some of these!!!).
  21. dikman
    If you hadn't said that you had to shrink the inlay window I'd never have known! It looks like it was designed that way, looks great.
  22. dikman
    Yep, the Neutrogena soap is glycerine-based (it's in a wrapper with a black strip on it here). I had to look up the MSDS because I'm experimenting with it as a boolit lube and I didn't want "conventional" soap in the mix.
  23. dikman
    That pretty well sums it up. Sometimes things can be done using a machine that, in theory, shouldn't work. For a hobbyist it may be all that's needed, BUT for leatherwork (particularly heavier stuff) you can't beat a compound feed walking foot. Bottom line is that if what you've got works for you that's all that matters.
  24. dikman
    Your post made me laugh - particularly the last sentence!
  25. dikman
    Yeah, that is very impressive work. (Too much bling for my liking, I'd feel embarrassed wearing a rig like that ).
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