dikman

Rocky, having the needle barely in the material on the downstroke also makes sense, although timing it might be a little more critical. Ensuring the thread is taut when twisting the leather is probably very important, as I'm sure what you describe was happening to me. I'll have to do a bit of experimenting now that I've got some ideas where to start. I wonder if it makes a difference whether the shuttle/hook is horizontal or vertical?

Looks like a lot of work, Dwight.

Cute little machine, though .

Now THAT is something I never thought about!

Uwe, I've wondered this too. The last time I had to regularly stop and turn material I was sewing an "infiniti" pattern on a gunbelt using my Pfaff 335. Every now and then I would get a dropped stitch and couldn't figure out why (it was always at the turning point). I've been pondering this for quite a while, trying to visualise the hook/needle operation when stopping. The only answer I could come up with is that sometimes the needle may have been on the upstroke and turning the material twisted the thread and prevented the loop forming properly. With this in mind I figured it's better to stop right at the bottom of the downstroke, before the loop can form (although stopping on the downstroke, as you say, also makes sense). Don't know if I'm right, but it sort of makes sense to me. I shall await, with interest, comments from the more knowledgeable here.

I tend to agree with your wife. It's still a perfectly functional holster, and let's be honest if these things are actually used they will inevitably end up getting marked/scuffed/scratched etc. So let someone who can appreciate it have it at a good price.

Yep, forgot to mention that I mostly used air fittings/valves/hose and assorted brass plumbing fittings.

Thanks Forester, excellent reference should I decide to have a go myself. Will save me having to spend hours researching it .

I cut the fingers off an old pair of (riggers) gloves and use one on each little finger. Helps to protect the fingers when pulling the thread (until your fingers toughen up ).

Very nice. Do you have a photo of the back of the holster?

Simple and elegant.

I built a vacuum system some time ago to stabilize wooden knife handles - never used it! The pump was made from a stand-alone single cylinder compressor head, belt driven from an old motor. I modified the input to the compressor head so that I could couple an air hose to it so it became a vacuum pump. It can pull 28" of mercury, which is the max vacuum I can get for my elevation. For the tank I used a 20 lb. propane tank, cut in half and welded a ring around the rim to fit a rubber seal. The top connection was adapted to fit a vacuum gauge and release valve and a nut was welded on the bottom half to fit the evacuation hose and a valve to close it off. I also made a wooden plate to fit in the bottom half so that I could use it for vac-forming, but haven't had a need for it yet. I suppose I might find a use for it one day.....

One of my machines came with a very old Singer clutch motor, it looks a bit the worse for wear but still works well - unfortunately, I lack the skill to control it, even with a speed reducer!! As Eric said most of these Chinese servos are perfectly adequate (and affordable) for we hobbyists. While it would be nice to have a high-end servo, needing three meant it was not even a consideration. I'm more than happy with my $200 Chinese servos, they're perfectly adequate for my needs.

I found the same thing with the needle positioner and because I sew very slow decided to remove it. I can control the needle position well enough without it. Interestingly, I can't do the "pencil mod" on mine because the design is different (doesn't have the gradient piece inside). I have 500W and 750W motors, same brand, and at least the 750W is physically bigger on the outside .

Ok, NOW it makes sense - but I think you would have been better off just showing the holster, seeing that the belt isn't meant as part of the rig. (Yes, I know, I'm being picky).

Nice, but a percussion cap revolver with cartridge loops on the belt?

No dye? Came out better than mine when I just used neatsfoot oil. Must be the leather, I guess. Whole rig looks very neat.

Very nice holster (did you notice the snap is crooked?). One way of avoiding the problem would be to use a hammer thong instead of a strap? Anyhow, good job.

I reckon because it doesn't have reverse or a servo you might be able to knock the price down! Sounds like a pretty good deal and would be a nice cheap intro to industrial sewing machines.

Very nice! While it's not my style, it's always good to see other designs to show what can be done. What colour dye?

Thanks for that, I'll probably have to ask them to get it in as I haven't seen it on the shelf.

I have one and have fitted a servo AND speed reducer! It crawls along nicely. It will do belts fine, and probably knife sheathes, but I wouldn't expect it to do a typical folded over holster (I've decided to only handstitch my holsters as I think it gives a stronger piece). As Wiz said, 3/8" is pretty much the limit. It's a nice machine and has reverse, which is very handy. I do my own servicing/repairs so can't comment on costs if you have it done, but I've found it pretty easy to work on - once you understand how it works!!

Nice. I made my last lot as natural, no staining just oil/wax. I think I like the walnut better, as it looks more natural than natural . Is it Feibings dye?

Forgot to ask, what colour stain did you use (or is it natural)?

On the inside of the pulley there should be two flats, put a spanner on them to hold the pulley and take off the nut on the front. The pulley should pull off, it has a slotted key-way to locate it on the shaft. Check the shaft diameter, most of them are 15 mm, if so it's a standard size for most motors and pulleys are readily available via ebay.