dikman

TT, I thought I detected a subtle reference to a certain Mr. Scott (I hear there's a new movie due out soon, and also that there's a remake of the original series happening). Darren, based on my recent experiences, I would say your percentages are spot on. (It's amazing what a difference it makes when you thread the needle from the correct side ).

Coincidentally, last weekend I was talking to a member at my shooting club about this very thing - repairing horse rugs. He has horses, and knows people who repair the rugs. He said that if the rugs come in dirty then the cleaning cost is added to the repair, as dirty rugs do nasty things to a sewing machine! It was recommended on here by a member that for someone who repairs rugs it's a good idea to have an old, heavy duty machine just for that purpose, and keep the rugs away from good machines. I guess only you can decide which machine will suit your needs, based on what you do (or want to do), but a cylinder arm has to be more versatile overall, and with a table fitted, as you mentioned, should do pretty much everything that a flat bed will do.

They look almost brand new!

The black doesn't look too bad, maybe I should re-do mine black........maybe. To remove the paint on mine, I used a gel paint stripper first and was careful to keep it away from the body/bed join. Once it had softened the paint I scraped it off with a paint scraper and paper towels, used a chisel to remove what was left and then wiped it down with methylated spirits. Funny thing was, as the gel started softening the grungy green stuff it showed silver just underneath, with a grey primer under that.

Sorry, I thought you had sourced the decals in the past. This is the final result of repainting the bed. The first coat gave a nice hammered finish, the second coat smoothed it out!! The difference in colours is more noticeable in the photo, but I'm still happy with it as it looks infinitely better than the previous paint job. Whoever did the last one didn't make much attempt, if any, to mask off the main body - the overspray you can see is from the previous job.

Now THAT is one heck of a hijack!

Interestingly, it is available nearby - but only in black and white, no silver!! Where do you get Singer decals from? I'll only consider repainting the body if I can replace the lettering too. This machine might be a good one for me to try as a first attempt.

Picked up the replacement hook. Part number is the same, although no brand on it. Comparing them and it's obvious just how worn the original is! I fitted it to the race and it's a good fit with no slop and moved smoothly within the race. When I installed the assembly, however, something was binding slightly at one point in the rotation. After removing and replacing the race several times, with no luck, I noticed that the arm that's supposed to open slightly to let the thread past the shuttle wasn't opening. I pulled out the shuttle again and compared it to the original (again!) but it looked the same, so I started measuring it. I finally found the problem - below the hook itself the metal forms a "mouth" that the previously mentioned arm fits into. On the new one this "mouth" was significantly shallower, so the arm didn't have enough room to move. In other words, it could never work properly! I had to use the trusty Dremel, with a cut-off wheel, to deepen this "mouth". That did it, now it operated properly. Threaded it up (#69) and ran some stitches by hand, and it looks good, although at one point the top thread caught somewhere underneath and snapped. I don't think there will be too much wrong, so I'll hook it up to a motor and see what happens.

My replacement shuttle came in so I decided to find some paint at the same time, to save me making another trip. I ended up with a silver hammertone, not as close as I would have liked but I figured the hammertone texture should look better than a smooth finish. Anyhow, it's got to look better than the wrinkly green finish on there now! Constabulary, I know it's hard to get good photos when talking about colour matching, but that one looks pretty good to me.

My Singer is UK made, and is a silvery-blue (?) finish (I can't quite figure out exactly what it is). I'm guessing it's pretty much a standard colour that Singer used, so has anyone matched it to a commonly available paint?

I agree in that the needle positioning is potentially of great benefit, the rest....? While it would be very impressive in its implementation, I see little practical use for what most on this forum appear to use their machines for. And yes, in my opinion it would start taking the fun and enjoyment away. I can, of course, understand why Uwe would want to do it.........mainly because he can! Uwe, my servos make assorted noises at very low speed, the worst is the one fitted to the Pfaff, this one has a small pulley on the motor and an 8" on the machine, and at very low speed it grumbles along and at a particular speed almost seems to create a resonance with the table!! The one on the Singer 211 is connected via a speed reducer setup and this is quieter at slow speed. I'd say that the reducer has the effect of allowing the motor to run a little faster but still give low overall machine speed so is happier because the revs are up a bit. Makes sense to me, at least.

I've ordered the hook from my local (industrial) sewing machine place. Slightly dearer than off ebay, but I figure it should be decent quality. Hopefully it should work properly with it fitted, I'll know next week.

Depends on the paint that I find. A spray can will be a lot less messing around, but if I can't find the right colour I'll mix it myself and use an airbrush.

Brilliant! Can't wait to see the rest of it. (Speaking of steam-powered, the sound your machine makes when it's starting up is a bit like an old steam train wheezing as it first starts ).

Not all needle bars have the timing marks on them (one of mine doesn't). Usually the manual will explain how to adjust it if there aren't any marks.

When I first saw the chisel as the tool-of-choice I cringed inside, as it's a pretty crude way of removing paint, but then I realised you can't use normal chemical paint removers without completely dismantling the machine. Anyhow, you've got me thinking that if I get this latest machine working maybe I should do the same to the bed on it, as it's a pretty yucky greeny ripple finish paint. I just need to find a suitable match to the body paint (a blue-silver colour).

Sounds like the machine is working as it should, you need to hold the threads pretty tight, I have the same issue if I don't!

Depending on the servo, you may not necessarily need a reducer as well. The main advantage, I suppose, is that it lets you slow way down without losing much, if any, torque.

I'll second that! Whenever I fiddle with a machine I always turn it by hand first and make sure it can sew properly before powering it up. (It's scary when a needle hits the needle plate under power!!!).

While I can't comment on the suitability of the various Adlers (there are others on here who are far more knowledgeable on that aspect), a cylinder arm is potentially more versatile if you only intend buying one machine.

The foot was actually hitting the shoulder on the needle, as the needle doesn't go all the way up into the bar. Anyhow, I removed the foot and cleaned some gunk off, which may have been offsetting the foot just enough. I reset the needle bar and fitted the original needle and now the needle shoulder just misses the foot, so that's ok.

I've already done what you suggested, Bob, and stripped and cleaned the race. There's definitely some slop in it. As for the needlebar, that thought had already occurred to me, but I noticed that if I drop the bar down to accommodate the shorter needle then if the bar is down when the foot is lifted the slot in the foot actually hits the shoulder on the needle. Constabulary, according to the manual the shuttle mounting is pinned at both ends of it's drive shaft. I can see a pin at one end, but not at the shuttle end, which has two grub screws. I loosened them, but I couldn't get anything to move. I've also found that an arm inside, which has a pivot screw at the end, has a noticeable amount of slop in the pivot area. I'm not sure what difference that's likely to make yet. I mentioned that the end plate isn't the correct one for this model, and while the body of the machine is a silvery grey, the base plate and end cover are different, both in colour and texture, more of a grey-green. I checked the serial number on the base plate and it belongs to a 132K6! While my original idea was to strip it, a little voice inside said no, store it somewhere for now. I'll have a look for parts, but if it's going to cost too much I won't bother but I'll keep my eyes open for something similar so that I can maybe use the parts. A bit later: I had a closer look at the shuttle. Around the circumference (the part that rotates in the race) it's a pretty good fit at the middle part, but is loose at both ends. Very close inspection shows wear marks at the ends, and a micrometer indicates that it has a definite taper towards the ends, so it looks like it's the shuttle that's worn. I would guess that it's been run without lubrication, because it seems like pretty excessive wear to me. I also noticed that the machine is actually pretty clean inside (other than dust, as it was stored under the woman's bed) with no sign of the oil and lint buildup that I have in my other machines. I'm beginning to wonder if someone else cobbled this together from other machines/spares that they had.

Well, that idea was good in theory, but didn't work in practice. In fact, it made it worse, so I brought the bar back up but it's still missing the stitches. This machine has a horizontal shuttle, and what I have noticed is that there seems to be a bit of lateral movement between the shuttle and the shuttle race. Which means it's impossible to set the hook precisely, as the gap between the hook and needle can vary randomly. I'll have to pull the shuttle assembly out again, but I don't think there's any adjustment to take up any slack. Looks like I might end up stripping it for parts after all.

Any thoughts I had that it would work straight off were dashed in no uncertain terms when I fitted the needle, a 16x2, which is a direct replacement for the obsolete 16x87. I checked the hook timing and the hook was well below the eye of the needle!!! The needle bar was close enough to the correct setting. I compared the needle to the longer one for the 211G166 and thought I'd try that. It lined up almost spot on, just needed a slight tweaking of the needle bar. Very strange. Next problem, I fitted a bobbin and threaded the machine and turned it over by hand. The top thread was not slipping around the shuttle consistently, so wasn't picking up the bobbin thread every time. I pulled out the shuttle assembly and cleaned it in petrol, then polished the parts with brasso. That helped, and now the thread slipped over the shuttle assembly every time. Unfortunately it still dropped stitches. Watching the shuttle it was obvious that the hook wasn't grabbing the thread every time. The problem with this machine is that, compared to a walking foot it is actually a pretty basic machine. The shuttle is pinned at both ends of its shaft, which means it's going to be a pain to readjust it just a little. I think I'll try lowering the needle bar a bit first, so hopefully the thread will form a bigger loop for the hook to grab, otherwise I'm going to have to knock out a pin.

Yep, so does mine. My hopes that it would work straight off have been dashed somewhat! One consolation, compared to a walking foot it's a pretty simple machine.