dikman

Nice find! Beats me how you guys find these things (easier to find rocking horse teeth here). Jimi, you were pretty lucky with that paint coming off like that. Just curious, what does the "universal solvent" consist of?

Mine has 6" jaws. When I use it I have it positioned so that the belt is at right angles to my body so that I can see either side if I need to. I can see problems trying to use a long one like that because of the way I sew (although it might work for you?).

Very nice. Tell me, Uwe, do you actually use your machines? They always look so......clean .

My first thoughts are also needle/hook timing. I would check all the settings to do with that area. Also the condition of the hook itself for excessive wear and for any play in the bobbin carrier. Is the hook causing the fraying? I've had that problem where the hook catches a strand of the thread rather than the whole thread (hook/needle timing). And as Kohlrausch said check all the thread guides/path (I've also found deep grooves on the inside of the tension discs on one of my machines, which can cause a problem if your thread isn't the same size as the grooves). While it's probably nice to think you're buying a quality German machine over a "cheap" Chinese one, the reality is that for what you spent you could have bought a new Cowboy/Cobra machine, which wouldn't have given you the problems you're now having. Not all Chinese stuff is bad, they do make some very good gear.

I agree with MM. From what I've read it's basically a "heavy duty" home sewing machine. One spec sheet listing what it could do, under leather said No. If you're serious about leather then get yourself a proper walking foot - and for holsters you need a decent machine! Definitely save your money on this one.

Yeah, it's an unspoken agreement amongst the media that they don't publicize "drop bear" incidents, otherwise the tourists would keep away in droves. You'll hear about kidnappings, murders, shark attacks , croc attacks (and stoopid politicians) but you'll never hear about drop bear attacks. They can smell tourists from miles away!

Good one, Greg. Cutting off the pressor foot hadn't occurred to me.

Umm, tail wind? As a much younger person I used to work in the country and regularly sat between 90 - 100 mph (nice big Ford V8). Wouldn't dream of it now, too many other idiots (and police cameras) out there now. Came close to 180 kms/hr on a bike once, scared the daylights out of me 'cos our main roads are, basically, crap! I'm a much more sedate driver now. I guess I've been lucky enough to survive my earlier years and would like to keep it that way. Black ice? No thanks, you can keep it. Spectre, you still out there mate? Still waiting to hear from you. You asked a question that, thus far, no one can answer. I guess we still don't understand exactly what the question is?

Son-of-a-gun, so there isn't anything new under the Sun . So, what does it do?

That little curly piggy-tail is certainly....different. I'm curious as to its function.

I take the back roads, but a lot of them have reduced speed limits now. Still, riding the Bonnie (2005 model, carbies, no computer) takes me back to the 60's/70's. In many ways a much simpler time. And yeah .

Sometimes.... I'm just trying to figure out what he's actually asking, in simple terms ('cos I'm a simple person). So far I obviously don't know.

I just read the title more carefully - 135 thread (doh! me dummy!). I had problems with my old 335 when I first tried 138 thread (it worked fine with 69), it was dropping stitches and causing fraying due to the hook snagging the twists in the thread. I had to tweak the position of the hook saddle (can't think what it's called at the moment, the bit holding the shuttle assembly). I found it was pretty fussy adjusting it so that the hook would catch the thread correctly. Also the thread tension take-up spring (the one mounted on the tension discs) needed tweaking a bit. The photo also suggests to me that a bigger needle may help.

What size thread? Looks like #138?

Ah, but it's a Limited Edition, so must be worth having . (You wear silk shorts?). So, today being an almost perfect day for it, I got out the Bonneville and went for a ride through the Hills to the cherry farm, to get some Christmas cherries. While enjoying the scenery, and the obligatory disgustingly nice cherry slice and cream (I look forward to it every year) and coffee, I pondered this thread, trying to figure out what I am obviously missing (besides the obligatory brain cells). So, how does this sound - the OP would like a list of various machines, with their specifications and characteristics that make them suitable for sewing the type of material they are designed for, so that he can enter the data into a spreadsheet/database and then analyse it to determine which machine he should buy (even though, at the moment, he has absolutely no idea what said machine will be used for). He did say that what they can sew is not a factor in making a decision. Yes/no?

Yep, because the reason everyone asks "what are you wanting to sew" is because it's the logical starting pointing in deciding on a suitable machine. The reason it matters is because that will determine what is needed. Steve (above) has already suggested several possibilities, but none of those machines will be suitable for every contingency. If, as you said earlier, your intention is to have a machine handy just in case you might need it later, without knowing what that need might be, then really you will need more than one machine. Every analogy you have used (including the hammer) always comes down to the lowest common denominator - what is it going to be used for? Once you know that then you start looking at what's needed to achieve that. Much of that information is already here, and Wiz's excellent sticky sums up most of it. If, however, you don't want to start from the "what do you want to sew" premise then basically, read, read and read some more in order to try and understand how different sewing machines are designed for different jobs. There is no other alternative due to the complexity of the subject. That is how most of us, who weren't raised in the industry, learned. Even Madmax, who obviously understands where you're coming from, hasn't been able to give you what you want.

Would be a nice machine. I nearly bought one but it meant going interstate, I still regret not going to get it as the price was very good! I'm not a programmer, so I'm trying to figure out what the OP actually wants, as the usual (logical) question of "what do you want to sew" obviously doesn't apply here. Is it a list of all machines, with pertinent data such as motor type, needle size, thread size, foot clearance, type of "action" (straight stitch, walking foot etc) and finally what they can sew? (I can't find a "puzzled" smiley).

I can understand why. We're going in circles.....

Your analogy to fishing is interesting, you say you want the pole not the fish, but if you asked on a fishing forum what fishing rod should I get guess what they would say? "What type of fish are you after?" Because the type of fish (to the knowledgeable fisherman) largely dictates the the type of rod, type of reel, size of line, lure/sinker/bait etc etc. In other words that is the starting point, just as with sewing machines what you want to make will dictate the type/size of machine you will need. That is a given. It doesn't matter how much one talks about other factors that is the crucial question. You are already aware that a machine that can handle heavy/large thread (and obviously thicker material) has a lower limit in that it will be extremely difficult to do fine work with it - if not impossible. This is why people usually have more than one machine. If you decide to call a dealer/manufacture to enquire about machines, guess what they will ask first - "what do you want to sew?" The answer to that question will determine which machines they talk about. A spreadsheet full of all this information would be a wonderful thing indeed, and in fact has been suggested before (usually by someone who is relatively new to all this) but nothing has ever eventuated mainly, I suspect, because they began to realise the enormity of the task.

My 1.5c worth. You're right, it really starts with what you want to make as that will determine what you need.If all you're going to make is wallets, lightweight dress belts etc (i.e. thin leather) then you have a much bigger range to choose from because you don't need high clearance under the foot, high lift, heavy needles and heavy thread (assuming it will be either #69 or #138). A flat bed will be more than adequate, although you could use a cylinder arm as well, which will then make it easier to sew bags etc. This range is probably where the vast majority of machines fall into. If, however, you decide to get into making holsters, cowboy action-type holsters and gun belts then these machines won't cut it. This is when you get into the heavy-weight stuff - usually cylinder arm, because they're more versatile - with high clearance under the foot (ideally 3/4" or more), large needles to handle heavier thread, and more grunt to drive the needle through the thicker leather. From there you can get into the seriously heavy stuff that can punch through almost anything you can get under the foot! Usually with a seriously heavy price tag. As for features, again it depends what you are making. For most people, however, particularly newbies, a servo motor is probably the most important thing to have (a clutch motor can put the fear of God into you pretty d*** quick!!!). Reverse is nice to have, for backstitching. They will generally have either a knee lift or a foot-operated lift, which one is best is debatable and it comes down to personal preference. I'm sure others will join in with comments from a slightly different perspective than mine, which is good because I'm sure I've overlooked quite a few things!

Yeah, funny thing about the Harley (although $20,000 PLUS would be more like it!). I have a Moto Guzzi and a Bonneville in the shed and reluctantly have decided to try and sell the Guzzi - but the Bonnie stays!!! I don't do a lot of heavy leather work, although I believe if I wanted to there is a small market out there for cowboy holster/belts, particularly if the price is right. While the machines I have are more than adequate for anything else I do, it still doesn't stop me lusting after a Cowboy . I suppose the other machines have just whetted my appetite .

Leatherator, download the manuals for the 152 - 155 models - they're free, just do a search - and they will have the nominal settings/adjustments (although these are for walking foot models). The 152 - 154 are set for 10 mm (3/8") and the 155 is 1/2" (I think, I know it has a higher lift than the others). I have mal-adjusted mine to take a thicker leather, but that creates additional problems as the needle bar then hits the leather unless it is also lifted and then you need longer needles and then if you want to sew thinner stuff you have to re-adjust everything back to normal...bit of a pain, really. Much easier to operate it within the constraints it was designed for.

Steve, that pricing I came across certainly makes yours competitive. No doubt, if I searched more, I could probably find something a bit cheaper but for an item like that I wouldn't consider it worth the risk unless it was significantly cheaper. I would love a Cowboy, but for my uses I cannot justify the cost (heck, for that money I can buy myself a nice Winchester 73 and a couple more revolvers!!). Unfortunately I've never seen one come up second-hand, which says a lot about the machines. A friend of mine recently got one at a very good price, but only because a mate died and his wife asked him to help dispose of his leather gear (the machine had hardly been used due to his ill-health). He did the right thing by her but still got a good deal.

Just looking on AliExpress (Chinese ebay) and came across a Cowboy 3200 for around AU$2400. Pity about the shipping, another $1300!

You mean I'm supposed to do more than just put oil everywhere............