dikman

Thanks cobber, bit more info to file away (just in case).

Hey JS, did you use a machine or handstitch them? If it's a machine, how did you get so close to the raised areas and not leave any marks?

Thanks Bruno, another member already forwarded that to me (it's the pattern that I was thinking of but couldn't find).

Rocky, I like it . (And the beer, of course). Trevor, welcome to the forum, I see you've already found how strangely addictive these old machines are!

Yep, wheel puller. I ended up buying one from one of the auto stores that had a sale. I got the small one which only just made it to the wheel rim!! As Constabulary suggested you could use a hammer and block of wood and slowly work your way around the rim, but the puller is a much safer bet. You could make one, but trust me it's worth buying one.

Sounds like you've got that part sorted then. I had a chance at buying a Seiko (same model) some time ago. It was interstate, which meant overnight each way but it was a very good deal. Just as I was about to leave I came across the Singer 166 and Pfaff 335 locally, also at good prices, so I let the Seiko go. I wish now that I'd bought it too!

Very impressive, Trevor. Now, if you really want to go down in sewing machine history, try and find some manuals for the Singer SV models!

Joanna, I would go for the Seiko if money permits (if you're like me it usually doesn't!) as from everything I've read they're a very good machine, but then the Consew's also have a pretty good rep. One thing to keep in mind is that they probably come with clutch motors and most people who are starting out can find them difficult to master if you want slow speed. For that you'll need a servo motor and should allow $$ for that.

Now that is very nice work, not too flashy, and a warm glowing finish (if that makes sense).

I'm forced to ask ('cos after much searching I can't find it) - anyone made, or have photos/patterns, for cavalry belt-type cartridge pouches? I'm sure I saw something on here but I'm blowed if I can find it.

I just realised, looking at the photo, that none of my winders have that "guide bridge" thingy and all seem to work ok without it (although I must admit that sometimes I run the thread through my fingers to guide it).

I used a gel-type paint stripper on the wooden stock of a muzzleloader I was restoring, it did a great job of removing the varnish. The Singer 331K4 that I got for free had a different colour on the baseplate, so I used it on that too and it made it real easy to get the paint off. The beauty of the gel stuff is it doesn't flow so it's easy to control where you want it to go. Cleanup is pretty easy, scrape it off then wipe over with water or methylated spirits (denatured alcohol to you Yanks).

Good grief! A bit over-the-top for me, but that's a remarkable piece of workmanship. Must say I find the knife far more interesting, though. Nice simple olde-style look about it and the handle looks great.

Bob, thanks for that link to the newsletter, I bookmarked it so that I can start working through back issues. Looks good!

ThelTMan, see if you can figure out what's causing your allergic reaction - Triethanolamine, TEA Stearate, Sodium Tallowate, Glycerin, Water, Sodium Cocoate, Sodium Ricinoleate, Sodium Oleate, Cocamide MEA, Sodium Stearate, BHT, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrasodium Etidronate, Trisodium HEDTA, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Fragrance (Scented option only) (I can't even pronounce some of these!!!).

If you hadn't said that you had to shrink the inlay window I'd never have known! It looks like it was designed that way, looks great.

Yep, the Neutrogena soap is glycerine-based (it's in a wrapper with a black strip on it here). I had to look up the MSDS because I'm experimenting with it as a boolit lube and I didn't want "conventional" soap in the mix.

That pretty well sums it up. Sometimes things can be done using a machine that, in theory, shouldn't work. For a hobbyist it may be all that's needed, BUT for leatherwork (particularly heavier stuff) you can't beat a compound feed walking foot. Bottom line is that if what you've got works for you that's all that matters.

Your post made me laugh - particularly the last sentence!

Yeah, that is very impressive work. (Too much bling for my liking, I'd feel embarrassed wearing a rig like that ).

I agree with plinker, the holster looks fine to me and as it's essentially a concealed carry what would it matter anyway?

I have a 51W59 with a roller wheel and it appears to come as a complete assembly as it doesn't simply fit in place of the normal pressor foot (the vertical bar it's attached to has to be replaced as well).

I'd be ashamed if I did stitching like that! I note that he said it's a rush job and not to be over-critical!!

Thanks mate, that site looks good unfortunately according to their home-page they only sell to the trade. Fortunately I only bought a small spool of Serafil to try (won't buy any more). I tried another run with the M20/#138 Coats on the Pfaff and found that if I feed slowly it's fine, but if I try to speed things up I run the risk of the thread snagging - I'm pretty sure it's the hook catching the thread rather than the loop. No big deal as I go slow anyway. Back to Uwe's reason for starting this thread, I also found that thicker leather can be problematic when stopping and turning the material. If the needle is only just in the material the thicker stuff can push the needle out of alignment if care isn't taken, so having the needle at the bottom of its travel is probably safer. (I found this out the hard way and put a very nice double offset bend in a needle, beats me why it didn't break!).

G'day Rocky, sorry I didn't get back earlier been a bit busy. I used a Schmetz needle, size 21 and is a leatherpoint (marked R TW and LR, not sure what they mean). Thread is Serafil, M20 (#138) and I think it's a poly/cotton (twisted). I finally got it stitching ok, but when I waxed/polished the item the thread started going a bit fuzzy from the polishing cloth! I've got some Coats poly thread which I think might be better (so far I can only find one place here in Adelaide that sells thread and their range is limited). I've been trying to get the Pfaff working, as it started occasionally snagging the top thread underneath somewhere. I finally stripped it to check the needle settings and after fiddling around a bit ended up re-setting the needlebar height/hook alignment, hook spacing and setting the needle a bit lower to ensure the loop was forming early enough. I also touched up the hook and polished the end. Now I can run a stitch line of #138 top and bottom, which I couldn't do before! I think I'm slowly starting to understand the relationship between all these bits and pieces, but boy they can be finicky!!