dikman

You can always remove the motor (and all its associated paraphernalia) and replace it with a servo?

Glad I could give you a chuckle, madmax . I should have said that most manuals can be found online, so my assumption was that most (with a clone) would probably try and download the genuine manual that the machine is based on. That's what I would do, but I guess I should have made myself clearer. (Slaps self on back of head).

Thanks guys, but don't forget I'm in Oz, so availability isn't quite the same as over there. Anyhow, the shop has the Pro Dye Walnut Brown so I got him to hold a bottle for me. I'll start with that.

I can't comment on the 441 other than to say that from what I have learned from this forum I wouldn't have any qualms about buying a clone if one came along at the right price. I don't see where the possible lack of timing marks should be an issue, given that you are obviously mechanically capable - between the manuals and this forum you shouldn't have too many problems. Given where you're located I'd say the chances are pretty high that any machine you buy may need to be tweaked to suit what you want to sew, but again that's no big deal, in fact it's a good idea to learn how to do this. So don't worry unnecessarily, just get into it and enjoy yourself (before I joined this forum a couple of years ago I couldn't even understand the complexities of a domestic machine - probably because I hadn't needed to, I suppose - but look at me now, I think nothing of getting stuck into industrial machines in order to try and get them to do what I want ).

There's been a few posts about those machines, and for what they are they're not bad. The fishing line stitching looks good, but I have to admit I'm surprised you got it to work. These machines are best with #69 thread, and even with that the bobbin is small. Still, good fun to play around with and can get into pretty tight areas.

I didn't see it at the shop which is why I bought the Light Brown so I'll have to ask, maybe they don't normally stock it. Thanks guys. Ah-ha! Just checked the Feibing website and I see that the Walnut is in the Pro Dye range, I was looking at the "normal" dye range. I'll give them a call tomorrow.

My next project is a set of holsters and gunbelts, which the lady wants in a walnut brown - not as easy as I thought. I bought Fiebings Medium Brown, but I would call it Very Dark Brown! It also has red in it, which becomes more obvious if I cut the strength, but she doesn't want any red tinging. So I bought Fiebings Light Brown, but it's still a dark brown and shows red tinging on the edges of a test piece. So, how do I get a proper brown colour? I'm in the process of making my own walnut stain (from walnuts) but trying to get it dark enough is a bit of a challenge, so I'm still working on it. Any ideas?

That makes a change from the usual black/silvery grey hammertone/beige. Now that you've mastered the photo thing, how about a couple of the rear and underside of the table and motor? Might give me a few ideas.

Nice one, Nick! . As for the photos, you just need to resize them (smaller). I use irfanview, it's free and has default settings for resizing - easy. Uwe, that photo has got me thinking (bit dangerous). My Pfaff 335 is fitted to a normal table, but now I'm wondering about making something like the photo as it would save a bit of room in my shed.

NC, the wood looks nice. Now, as for the rest of the machine..... Sark, yep, I agree, a screw-attached fitting would be the better choice. The problem I have is that I have several different machines I may need to fit an edge guide to and after much pondering and fiddling I figured the magnetic type would allow me to shift one guide between several machines. Uwe, thanks for ripping open the knife holder, I have, for some time, been curious what they were made of.

There are a few advertisers/sponsors that advertise here, probably be a good place to start looking for a servo.

Switchable magnets would certainly be easier to use and those that northmount linked to would probably be easier to adapt to a guide. Keith, if that magnet is a bit strong try putting a few layers of tape on the bottom, that should reduce its "grab" a bit. I wouldn't worry about the magnetic field affecting other parts of the machine, as once it's clamped to the metal base that should contain the field and stop it extending beyond where it's clamped. I think I need to figure out some sort of fitting on mine so that I can easily break the magnetic contact to remove it, as using a screwdriver to lever it isn't very elegant.

Thanks for the ideas, folks, this is my version. I have plenty of old hard drive magnets but unfortunately they don't have convenient screw holes in them, so I used a small steel bar and super-glued two to it. Rather than wood I used a piece of hard nylon that I had and milled the sides flat and a rebate in the bottom for the bar. I had already made a guide roller for a different fitting so I milled a groove in the top and screwed it to the nylon. (I have to use a screwdriver to lever the bar from the machine base to move it!!!).

Good idea, don't rush into it. Nothing wrong with hand stitching (other than the time it takes to do a belt!!). There is a lot to learn about industrial machines so keep reading. As Uwe said, buying a new machine (while the initial cost is higher) means you have a machine that will work with minimal issues. Buying used means you will probably either have to pay to have it checked/serviced or learn how to fix it yourself (assuming you haven't bought a complete lemon). That Juki, by the way, should be more than adequate to sew belts. So have patience, keep reading and don't be afraid to ask questions.

" de-criticalizes "??

I just bought a Seiko, it looks the same as the one Sark posted. Based on my experience it's definitely the preferred choice. Mine easily handles up to 138 thread and will go through whatever I can fit under the foot. A beautiful machine. Plus that one on CL comes with a servo, which is even better! I drove for an hour across town for mine and it was worth it. Consew is the brand name that Seiko use for the American market, so essentially the same machine.

You mentioned silicone spray, personally I wouldn't use it as the last thing you want is silicone contaminating your leather.

My Irish isn't too good, is that price 10 Euros for the set? If so that's about AUS$14!!!!!

At the risk of boring people, I have to make one more statement - I love this machine!! I have some M20/138 bonded braided polyester thread and none of my machines like it, they inevitably catch the braiding at some point during stitching and usually after a very few stitches. I gave up trying to get the adjustments right. So, out of curiosity I decided to try it in the Seiko. Perfect first time, no tweaking necessary. Don't know why it won't work on the others but does on this one, but I don't really care. I'm very impressed.

Yetibelle, that's not a bad solution, as it's easier working on these things from up top rather than clambering around underneath! Just make sure that it doesn't interfere with tilting the head back. On of mine is mounted underneath but in order to tilt the head back I have to slacken the speed reducer first (no big deal but it is annoying).

The knob generally sets the max speed and the foot control will then operate within that range (0 to whatever). Make sure you fit the smallest pulley you can to the motor (I've got 45 mm / 1 3/4") as it all helps.

Sorry mate, I just realised that your machine is probably similar to my 211G166 and in order to fit a replacement pulley on the head unit a sleeve will have to be fitted around the shaft and fit inside the body of the machine which Is why I haven't done it to my 211 (yet). On most machines there is a bushing/bearing fitted inside the pulley end of the main body and the shaft fits through it. The 211 is different and the pulley (handwheel) is machined to fit over the shaft and extends inside the main body. If you try replacing the pulley then the main shaft can oscillate unless it has this sleeve fitted. Use the 8" in place of the 5", you should have the room there and it will still make a difference.

Thanks guys. I think the lower oil tank is leaking, probably just needs new gasket material. I'm also thinking of fitting a handle/knob to the large pulley as this would make it easier to handcrank it.

Almost done, just have to sort out the knee lifter. The tabletop came with it so I re-used it but fitted it to stronger legs (the kneelifter positioning is different to the Singers so it was easier to use the original table rather than drop it onto a Singer table).The motor has a 1 3/4" pulley so fitting an 8" on the head unit gives me a 1:4.4 reduction, and coupled with the servo I can crawl it nicely with lots of torque. I just need to replace the belt with a smaller cross-section one, as while this one works I think it's a bit too stiff. (Since I started this sewing machine thing I've accumulated quite a selection of belts but I never seem to have the size I need ).

Doh, thanks Uwe, you're quite right, of course. Don't know how I missed that (and I even had my glasses on!). I saw the red bit and thought it was an LCD display. That reduces its value straight away .