dikman

I'm assuming we're talking a single holster if putting in a curve?

Well done, Dwight! I'm a great believer in using what's available (which is why I have all manner of "stuff" squirreled away!!). As for forgetting things, you're not alone there. I don't believe it's actually "forgetting" rather a case of trying to do more than one thing at a time and getting distracted. I wish I had a $ for the number of times I've walked into my shed, or a room, and thought "damn, now what did I come here for?!!!).

clintoo, I've bought three servos from China, two 500w and a 750w. I fitted a 500w to my Pfaff 335 and it has plenty of grunt, although I have also fitted a larger (8") pulley to the machine itself. If you can afford the 750w it probably makes sense to get it, but in all honesty the 500w will probably be more than adequate. I bought mine from Lishui Skyrit (on Aliexpress), mainly because they have a warehouse in Sydney and shipping was included, so instead of waiting weeks to get here from China it only took a few days! As for the price difference, it's no different to anything else that is imported and resold by another company here, there will always be markups!! If you look at their site, make sure that you tick the "ship from Australia" box. Oh, nearly forgot, they come standard with a 75mm pulley. I requested a smaller 45mm pulley when I placed the order but these had to be sent from China so took a bit longer to get here. (I've had no problems dealing with this company).

Clintoo, $400 for a Pfaff walking foot is pretty good (for Australia!). It looks a bit like a flat bed version of the 335 (to me at least). If the machine is working ok, and does what you want, then give serious thought to fitting a servo - it will tame the beast, so to speak.

Dani, if you lay the two hooks on top of each other you should be able to see what needs grinding. I used a Dremel with a thin cutting disc and gradually removed metal from the throat area at the base of the hook. Mine did exactly the same as you describe. This should show you where it needs opening up. It was a matter of trial and error, comparing the old and new, removing a bit of metal, trying the fit, then removing a bit more etc. (This is the original hook).

Thanks for the excellent site link, Mr. McClain. They have some great feet sets available for my machines, including the Pfaff, and even have a roller foot assembly that will fit my 331! looks like I'll be putting a shopping list together.

I have a similar issue, BHP, and this thread got me thinking. A box, with a fan blowing in warm air, should dry things pretty fast, I would think? So instead of messing around with lights just use a low-powered heater with a fan? Just thinking....

Great how-to blog, Dani, and nice job on the restoration. I recently got a 331K4 working and it uses the same hook assembly as yours. The hook on mine was very worn so I bought a "generic" replacement, but found it jammed up the machine when I tried to turn it!!! I had to use a grinding wheel to open up the throat behind the hook. Glad yours worked ok.

If you use the right type of RTV silicone for the mold then you could also cast them out of lead. Thanks for the idea - I have some low temp silicone (from when I was messing around with models) and some casting resin so I might have to make up a couple of molds.

Sounds like your medication might need changing......

Rocky, pm sent.

My 335 is very fussy about #138 thread (unfortunately). First one I tried was a braided thread, the hook kept snagging the thread (I suspect it was the braid "opening up" a tiny bit as the loop was formed). Next one was Serafil, a twisted cotton/polyester blend which also snagged, but less often. Last one is a fully synthetic twisted, which still catches occasionally. I've got the hook as close as I can to the needle but it has still proven to be unreliable. I'm still working on it, as there's no reason I can see why it shouldn't work...... It's fine with #69, by the way. I'd suggest you make sure that the hook timing is as good as you can get with the larger needle, hopefully you won't have the troubles I'm having.

Now that sounds like a plan, Mark..

Thanks cobber, bit more info to file away (just in case).

Hey JS, did you use a machine or handstitch them? If it's a machine, how did you get so close to the raised areas and not leave any marks?

Thanks Bruno, another member already forwarded that to me (it's the pattern that I was thinking of but couldn't find).

Rocky, I like it . (And the beer, of course). Trevor, welcome to the forum, I see you've already found how strangely addictive these old machines are!

Yep, wheel puller. I ended up buying one from one of the auto stores that had a sale. I got the small one which only just made it to the wheel rim!! As Constabulary suggested you could use a hammer and block of wood and slowly work your way around the rim, but the puller is a much safer bet. You could make one, but trust me it's worth buying one.

Sounds like you've got that part sorted then. I had a chance at buying a Seiko (same model) some time ago. It was interstate, which meant overnight each way but it was a very good deal. Just as I was about to leave I came across the Singer 166 and Pfaff 335 locally, also at good prices, so I let the Seiko go. I wish now that I'd bought it too!

Very impressive, Trevor. Now, if you really want to go down in sewing machine history, try and find some manuals for the Singer SV models!

Joanna, I would go for the Seiko if money permits (if you're like me it usually doesn't!) as from everything I've read they're a very good machine, but then the Consew's also have a pretty good rep. One thing to keep in mind is that they probably come with clutch motors and most people who are starting out can find them difficult to master if you want slow speed. For that you'll need a servo motor and should allow $$ for that.

Now that is very nice work, not too flashy, and a warm glowing finish (if that makes sense).

I'm forced to ask ('cos after much searching I can't find it) - anyone made, or have photos/patterns, for cavalry belt-type cartridge pouches? I'm sure I saw something on here but I'm blowed if I can find it.

I just realised, looking at the photo, that none of my winders have that "guide bridge" thingy and all seem to work ok without it (although I must admit that sometimes I run the thread through my fingers to guide it).

I used a gel-type paint stripper on the wooden stock of a muzzleloader I was restoring, it did a great job of removing the varnish. The Singer 331K4 that I got for free had a different colour on the baseplate, so I used it on that too and it made it real easy to get the paint off. The beauty of the gel stuff is it doesn't flow so it's easy to control where you want it to go. Cleanup is pretty easy, scrape it off then wipe over with water or methylated spirits (denatured alcohol to you Yanks).