dikman

Interesting point. The dog is set according to the manual, but I'll check with the magnifier again. I might as well have a play with the height as it's about the only thing I haven't adjusted yet!

Taking Eric's advice I started examining the feed dog area (it wouldn't have occurred to me to check that otherwise) and have got it down to 6spi. I don't think I can get any better. When the needle entered the feed dog it was centred ok, but I noticed, under a magnifier, that as the needle came out it was being pushed against the front edge of the dog! I re-adjusted the dog, but there was always a point where it wasn't centred! Much scratching of my bald head and I finally saw that as the centre foot was at the rearmost position, foot down, it was actually being pushed forward slightly by the outer foot which caused the needle/bar to also move. It was very, very slight, but it obviously didn't need much movement to be a problem. This machine came fitted with a large, thick left-toe-only outer presser and I left it on because it meant I could get closer to the right edge of the material when using an edge guide. It also came with a couple of spare feet, one of which is a "standard-type" foot (wide left toe/narrow right toe) so I fitted this. Result, down to 6spi and no more rubbing of the inner/outer feet. I ground off the "high" part of the offending foot to stop it binding, but I'll probably leave the other foot on for now. Eric, the feed dog doesn't show any movement back towards me. I watched it very carefully with a magnifier and couldn't see anything untoward. I just ran a line of stitching around the edge of a gunbelt and it worked fine, so I think 6spi is as good as I'll get. Thanks again, mate, if you hadn't pointed me to the feed dog I wouldn't have found it and I could have had wear problems further down the track.

That makes sense, it certainly hasn't been drilled and if someone had actually knocked it out I would expect there to be lots more damage because it's cast material.

This is one for the experts, 'cos I'm stumped. The manual states that the 166 can do down to 5 spi - the best mine can do is 7spi. I've pulled the stitch length regulator mechanism apart and it's working fine. When it's doing 7spi there is no more adjustment left in the regulator, so I can't see how I can get it to 5spi. So I'm puzzled. What am I missing here?

I only mentioned it because until I came across that list yesterday I hadn't found anything to indicate how many 111WSV models there may have been (I only knew of a couple). I know that there are/were quite a lot of KSV models, and I think I saw mention of GSV models somewhere. There may very well be old Singer books somewhere with info on the SV models, but unless people put it on the 'net it's almost impossible to find out much about them.

As it's in the 111 class, there's bound to be similarities - overall size, body shape, thread tensioner, feet etc. The trick is to match what you do have to other models (the W100 appears to have the stitch length adjuster in the end of the handwheel, for instance, whereas the W151-155 is adjusted by turning the handwheel itself). Darren made a good point about the W100 being the first one listed in the 111 class, whereas this site - http://www.strima.com/needle?page=255 - lists needles for WSV model numbers from 36 to 88!! Unlikely to be prototypes, I would think, with so many models, but who knows?? All very perplexing......

While it looks like it's now working ok, I'll take your and Bob's advice and re-check the timing and give the shuttle area another (closer) once over - just to make sure.

Sounds like a visit there could be as fascinating as the firearms museum in Cody! I smiled when I saw Seiko on the shaft in the second photo.

Slight mistake in my previous post, it is called a compound feed, i.e. needle and feed dog feed the material together. This is a manual for a 111W100, which looks like it might be the same machine? http://www.manualslib.com/manual/364307/Singer-111w100.html Looks like it's meant for material, oilskins and possibly very light garment leather - doubtful if you'll be doing holsters on it! If you search you may find parts lists too.

Old or new machine? The info I have is to set the feed regulator to 3 on a "new" model and 0 on the old ones.

You'll be struggling to find specific info on a WSV machine. I bought a 111WSV77, and couldn't find any mention of it anywhere! Looking at various photos of 111 class machines, I noticed that it appeared very similar to the 111W151-155 models, so I downloaded the manuals and started comparing parts/fittings and what sort of clearance I could get under the feet. My best assessment is that it's a 111W153. You will probably have to do the same thing to try and find out your machine's capabilities. One thing I noticed is that yours is a needle feed and doesn't have the inner foot that a compound feed walking foot will have. SV stands for Special Version (I'm guessing that you've seen the same video on youtube that I first saw? The guy uses the term "special variance" which is incorrect). Singer made a LOT of SV versions of many of their models, and no-one appears certain just what the SV models were for - some think they were prototype models, prior to a production run, or models built for a specific function (mine seems to disprove the latter, as it seems identical to the W153). Best guess is that some of the parts are/were slightly different for some reason that we may never know. The W models were made at Bridgeport, in the US, and there aren't any records available for them so unlike other Singers you can't use the serial number to try and trace a specific model.

Knowing that it should work, I figured I'd buy some different thread to try. I bought a small spool of Serafin size 20 (138, same size as the other thread). Cranked it over by hand and after four stitches it caught and broke! Ok, try again, this time it did a dozen with no issues so I turned on the power and did about 20 or so, with no problems. Did another run and it too was fine, so it looks like there's basically nothing wrong with the machine. Comparing the threads was interesting. The Serafin is twisted poly, so pretty normal, the other thread, however, is a braided polyester. I picked this up as cleared stock from a bootmaking factory that had closed. Nice thread, really strong stuff, but I'd hazard a guess that my machine doesn't like the braided thread - maybe the braids are opening slightly when it's down in the bobbin area? Doesn't really matter, at least I can get it working. I'll try the braided stuff on the Singer flatbeds, It might work better with a vertical shuttle.

Eric, thank you for that, fascinating stuff. For those like me, who struggle along trying to keep things slow and manageable, it's awesome watching (and hearing) what a walking foot can actually do! An amazing piece of engineering when you think about all those shafts, gears, eccentrics etc. hammering away at high speed! Wiz, adds new meaning to the term "smokin'!".

That's a very interesting design for a sheath, nicely done.

I was only trying it at the suggestion of the chap where I bought it, he said it should lighten the colour a little (which it did, but it also brought out the red in it). I can see where thinning the dye could cause problems due to the reduced colour content. I intend to experiment a bit more later, but at the moment I'm making Holster #9, to match the last one. It will be natural (oiled and waxed only) and definitely not as well-finished as yours, but that doesn't matter as they're only for me and I'm hoping they'll quickly get an aged/used/knocked about look about them. The gunbelt is causing me some indecision. My thoughts are for a single layer (I don't want it too thick), rough side in with an Eastwood style buckle and tongue and stitched along the edge. I don't want to stamp it, but am undecided about stitching in the "gunfighter" pattern. Trouble is that it might look pretty plain with just the natural finish. I'll just have to make it and see what it looks like, I guess.

You make me feel ignorant! Two of mine I bought from a chap selling off excess, no longer used surplus machines from his business. He'd run them to prove they stitch and I turned them on to make sure they worked! I may have been lucky, I guess, as he was a nice bloke and the machines had been serviced regularly. The next one I made sure it turned over by hand and that was it. The machine hadn't been used for a few years (?) and the motor and table were cheap **** - but it was a very good price for the head unit. The fourth one (head only) was free, I turned it by hand, which was fine, so figured it was a good price!! Like I said, I may have been lucky as there were no broken bits (just one very worn shuttle).

Thanks Toney, I think I've almost got it. Next one should fix the mistakes.

I just looked at a few MSDS's for nail polish remover, and not all of them use acetone (which surprised me). The fact there was a colour change indicates it may have something else in it. Try a bit of the stuff on some scrap leather and experiment a bit to see what happens - water, dye etc. You could also try washing a bit of the affected scrap with acetone and see if it cleans it up.

Mikesc, you're quite right. It's not a typo, though, 'cos that's how my brain was working when I wrote it (!), but I must admit that afterwards it occurred to me that doing a thick holster edge on a flatbed would be difficult if the work had a curve in it, like a Western holster. So yes, a heavy duty cylinder arm and a light-medium flat bed makes more sense (and even a lightweight straight stitcher could be useful at times). Hmm, that's three, perhaps I'd better shut up! Steve, no comparison between the two! Most of the post beds that I've seen have a roller wheel instead of a presser foot, and you really want a walking foot for leather work. Post beds are probably more specialized than cylinder arms (shoe uppers, hat bands etc) and tend to run lighter thread. In my (limited) experience mine doesn't like thick leather at all! Stick to a cylinder arm.

Next version. The bottom of the holster is the same width but I made it 1/4" wider at the trigger guard, which gave just a little more room inside overall. I also lowered the slot in the front edge a bit more. By fitting the dowel along the extractor rod it gave a much better fit, the gun now slides out smoothly without the slight drag from the extractor that I could feel in the other one. The dowel behind the front sight appears to have angled the revolver slightly in the holster, with the barrel sitting a bit to the rear of the holster's leading edge and as a result the front sight doesn't catch (as much) on the bottom of the holster. It has zero retention, and the cylinder can be rotated in the holster (although that's not something we do!). Two quick coats of hot Neatsfoot oil, followed by an application of wax and then it was buffed a little. I figure that by buffing it regularly it should slowly get to the finish I want. Since this one appears to be a better fit to the gun, I guess I'll make another the same and then a matching belt (another gunbelt! Aarrgghh). Funnily enough, when they're side-by-side I think I like the reddish-brown better .

The 31-47 looks like a nice machine to start with. Best thing to do is get the manual and become familiar with how it works and the adjustments needed to keep it running properly.

Sonydaze is right, there is no "one size fits all" when it comes to sewing machines. Edges of holsters can be pretty thick, depending on style, and need a bit of grunt to get through, as well as suitable clearance under the feet. A machine that can do that is going have trouble with light material. Looking at what you want to do, I would think a heavy duty flat bed and a lighter cylinder arm might do, but I'm sure other, more experienced users should be able to be more specific.

31K57? I couldn't find that model, have you got the right number? The 335 is a nice machine, I'm finding out, and a cylinder arm is potentially more versatile, but we all have to start somewhere and if you can pick up a good flatbed walking foot it's a good place to start. While a post bed is a nifty bit of gear, it's a bit specialized and limited if you're going to be doing a lot of "general" leatherwork.

A word of warning, then - (old) industrial sewing machines can be strangely addictive..........

Keep them good tricks and ideas coming, RC . Actually, that is essentially what I've just done (it's drying next to me as I type). I wet it, folded it, dried and stitched it, then got the pouch part pretty wet and worked the revolver into it. Much better idea than wet molding it around the revolver, drying and then stitching. In total this is holster #8 that I've made (all Western-style), and I think I'm slowly starting to come up with a method that works, although I'm still not sure with staining whether it's better to stain first and then mold or stain after all the molding is done. Even with spirit-based dyes the water still tends to bring out traces of colour during wet-molding.