dikman

For what it's worth, I bought a replacement hook for my Singer 331K4, the hook was obviously not original but was the correct replacement part and was bought from a reputable company. It would not work and was so tight at one point in the rotation that it was scary! I eventually worked out that I had to grind out metal from beneath the hook itself, in the "web" below the hook. Then it worked. Just pointing out that even though a part is "made" for a machine they can still cause problems with these old machines., so assume nothing!

I note that Cowboy Bob's instructions above state that the default (as shipped) direction for the motor is reverse - as the two gentlemen on here appear to have confirmed.

You want bonded polyester thread. Most common size is #69 but it may go to #138 if you're lucky. Anything larger than that needs a heavy duty machine.

"E = reverse, P = Normal". Should be obvious to anyone, perfectly logical - NOT!

2" should be fine, I wouldn't bother trying to get a smaller one 'cos it won't be much smaller!

If you want to sew as slow as possible then always fit the smallest you can, as mike said. With the reducer that you already have fitted, however, even a 3" should still be fine.

A bit strange that they don't accept credit cards or Paypal, probably the two most common methods of payment on the 'net. They would be doing themselves out of a bit of business, I reckon. Pity, as it looks like it might go through holster thickness! It looks like a bigger/heftier version of mine (mine takes domestic-type needles and the bobbin is pretty small so not much good for heavier thread).

Sandy, that photo is the only one I could find that had a decent view of the thread path.I realise it's different in the base to yours, but I'm assuming they made variations of the machine for different uses? As for the 17 being the long arm version of the 8, I'm only repeating what I came across in my searching. I couldn't find a manual or parts list for the 8, and only a parts list for the 17 (at Hendersonsewing.com). Can you post a closeup photo of the area around the tensioner assembly? It's intriguing as it's different to my machines.. Judging by the lack of responses there doesn't seem to be much info around about the 17.

I was wondering about that bit myself, but looking at the photos I don't see any other way of threading it. I found a parts list for your machine, but no manual. I did find, however, that it's the long-arm version of the 133K8, and Constabulary mentioned in an older post that he had a manual for it. Send him a PM to see if it's still available. I just found this image of a 133K8, which shows the threading. You may be right about the angle of the thread, this one appears to have an arm of some kind extending above the tensioner. Will have to compare the parts lists to make any sense of it.

Well, based on other machines I have the threading looks right to me?

Yes, I found an edge guide to be indispensable on anything longer than a couple of inches!! Actually, I reckon it looks good (bottom too) and once it's dyed and finished off it'll probably look even better!

I don't know anything about the 1245, but Pfaff parts can be expensive and may not be as readily available as the Consew's.

Sark is correct, that plate should be sitting flat against the arm. Yes, that part you're pointing to is the hook and it should NOT touch the needle at any time. It looks like the shuttle assembly needs to be adjusted to the right. That is also most likely the explanation for your top thread catching. As Uwe said, best thing is to have someone who knows what they're doing look at it.

That is one neat looking foot, Uwe!

I have three servos (from China) and the control housing is the same shape as SARK9's (top photo), only difference I can see is the markings on the two buttons. I also bought a needle positioner but don't use it. For high speed stitching it's probably quite useful, but because I run at very slow speed I found it was more trouble than it was worth. With mine there are two main settings that can be adjusted (internally), start speed and max speed.

lb, as has been said many times, lots of people advertise a machine as being able to sew leather, and technically they are probably correct - but it's the type of leather that's important here (as well as the needle size and thread size). When you come across a machine that you're interested in, do a google search on the model number first and if it's a domestic machine then give it a miss (regardless of what the vendor may be claiming).

Yep. My first machine, a Singer, came with a Singer clutch motor. Judging by the wiring, switch and overall look of it it is OLD! As long as the insulation doesn't break down I reckon it will keep working for a long time yet.

Looks to be in very good condition. Good deal at that price, I reckon. Got any specs on it - thread size, needle size etc? (Just curious).

Search on the forum for Chinese shoe patcher, there have been a few posts about them. That one is slightly different to the one's that I've seen (and the one I have) as it appears to have a raised post, rather than the usual flat arm. Mine will only handle #69 thread. Darren probably knows more about those machines than anyone else I know.

I see what you're getting at, Red Cent. I don't see why it shouldn't work. The bolt and U piece will hold the plate in place and the slots will allow the ram to push directly onto the plate. Instead of a U piece you could just use two "side" plates, saves having to bend it (unless you have a suitable bender) as there shouldn't be much stress on the plates. I started thinking of other ways, to save drilling the ram, but it all starts getting more complicated, your way keeps it simple.

I was just looking at the outer foot and realised that the screw clamp is at 90 degrees to that on my 111 (which is the same as my 211).

G'day banjo, all of mine are two button controllers, other than the four button ones displaying a bit more info on the control panel there's not much difference that I can see. I found that the first two parameters, N1 (startup speed) and N2 (max speed) were the only ones that really had any effect. If you fit the needle position device and turn it on then other settings become active, but other than that you can't change much. I set both of these to 10, I assumed this meant 100 rpm for N1 and 1000 rpm for N2, even though they refer to "spm" in the description part of the table. From what I noticed if you set the max speed lower then the slowest speed is also lower, i.e. it will crawl along slower. Of course, having a speed reducer fitted also affects things, as 1000rpm on mine will be a lot slower at the needle than on your mates if he has a direct drive.

Looks very similar to my 111WSV77 (which as far as I can tell is the same as a 111W153), only differences I can see are mine's black (!) and yours has an extra sliding plate in front of the needle.

Pretty good for a first effort. We all have to start somewhere, and it's not until you actually make something that you learn what works and what doesn't. Each one you make will be better than the previous one.

Ralf, I have two of those and am very happy with them (I did buy the needle positioner with one, as it seemed like a good idea at the time, but after trying it out I took it off as at the slow speeds I work with it's not really needed).