dikman

Yeah, I suspect I'll end up refurbishing this one at some point as it has a fair bit of rust on it. Of all my machines this one is probably in the worst condition. I'll have to start compiling a list, and availability, of parts first.

It's a real pity that the records from the Bridgeport factory don't exist, as it makes it extremely difficult (if not impossible) to try and date the W machines, or even try to put them in some sort of context. As to my machine, part of me says to strip it and refurbish it and another part says to leave it as is.

That's one of the big problems with this subject, Gregg, there have been quite a few statements made about the SV designation but they are almost impossible to confirm. I'm guilty of believing something that someone stated (about a 111WSV71) until, as I learned more, I realised that he was probably only repeating something that he himself had heard but actually had no idea himself. As far as I can figure SV's were made before, probably during and after WWII, but that doesn't necessarily mean that your statement is incorrect. Just another piece of the puzzle. Meantime, a couple of photos of my 111WSV77. I'm guessing that the additional number plate suggests it may have been part of a very large company.

Actually, graywolf, it's probably worth mentioning that again. I don't really consider that as speculation, as that very thing is mentioned in my original post. It certainly seems that some (probably not all) SV machines were considered good enough to put into production. Jimi, nice find on that 45KSV100 corner stitcher. I always wondered what a machine would look like that could do that sort of stitching. Looks like I need to spend more time looking through the needlebar site. I might as well repeat what I've posted elsewhere, as the info is relevant to this thread. My 111WSV77 looks the same as the 111W151-153 machines. The part numbers are all different (at least those that I could check) but it appears to match the specs of the 111W153 (foot lift/clearance/stitch length etc). I can't see any obvious differences, nor are there signs of anything else having been fitted - which doesn't mean something wasn't attached, of course. I'll try and get a couple of photos later (but the only difference to the W153 is the designation plate ).

The subject of Singer's SV machines came up (again) in a couple of recent posts, so I thought I'd put in what little I know under it's own topic. If anyone knows anything about them (preferably fact, not speculation) please feel free to add to the meagre knowledge available. I found this at the ISMACS site - " This list, published in 1926, reflects the sheer variety of available machines and the myriad purposes for which they were intended – from aeroplane hangars and balloons to vests and wrappers. And if there wasn’t a machine to do what you wanted, they’d build a SV (Special Variety) for you. " And then there's this, from needlebar.org (antique sewing machine forum) - http://needlebar.org/cm/displayimage.php?pid=8462 It is beneath the front cover of a 15KSV83, which it states has "certain hardened parts". "SV - Special Variety Machines This is the cover and description of a Kilbowie Special Variety machine for Artisans, Tailoring and Light Industrial use. The machine stands up to hard wear and constant usage. "It is fitted with certain hardened parts and, for greater production, a high speed band wheel of 17" is supplied with treadle operated machines. A special table is also supplied which provides more working space to enable the operator to handle the sewing of clothing, etc., with greater ease." "There are hundreds (maybe even a thousand) Singer KSV and SV varieties of sub-models. They are Special Variety industrial machines because there are so many nuances and specialized requirements in the sewn products industry eg not simply with hardened parts. Many of them had the model numbers re-assigned to new numbers. And there is no logical pattern to it. Here are a few examples: 16KSV3 became 16K121 32KSV3 became 32K6 45KSV58 became 45K67 Sometimes a large manufacturer will have a specialized requirement for a machine. They ask Singer if they can make a machine to their specs and they order a bunch of them. Sometimes other manufacturers might be making a similar product or see that they too could use this feature. So then they might place an order for them. So it's not just the military or specially hardened parts. It can be anything that is different from the standard model. e.g. a machine might be set up to sew only a particular notion from a single vendor." I found the reference to the re-numbering particularly interesting, because I'd noticed (and Darren Brosowski also mentioned it in another post) that SV machines seemed to have low numbering in the particular class they're in, numbering below where the "normal" models start. Somewhere I came across a list of Singer models and classes, and within that list were many SV models, with W, K and G lettering indicating they were made all over the place! Unfortunately I'm blowed if I can find it again!!

I'd guess no, being an SV machine? Singer made SV variants on many models/classes and I have yet to find any info on what the idea behind them was. Some supposition about them, but nothing that really explains it - and I am yet to find a proper manual for any SV machine. All quite intriguing.

As I mentioned earlier, the "SV" models appear to be a very big unknown. I have thus far been unable to find any paperwork for these models or to determine why they even made them, such is the complete lack of information concerning them. In my case I have a 111WSV77. As far as I can determine by looking at the parts list and manuals for various 111-class machines it appears to match up with a 111W153 (there are no differences that I can find) BUT none of the part numbers on the machine match the part numbers for the 151, 2, 3 or 5. I suppose I should add that it only cost me $150 Australian . The table was useless and it was powered by what looked like an old washing machine motor (!) but I consider it well worth the money just for the head unit.

Co-incidentally I just this morning fitted my roller foot to the Singer 331K4. The foot assembly appears to be identical to yours (except it's black so probably goes faster ). The hardest part was getting the foot bar out so that I could clean off the buildup of grunge on the bar - all these other bits fell out when I removed it! Took a bit of tweaking to get it adjusted right but looks like it should work ok. The feed dog and needle plate look the same as yours too.

Just got my parts in from Kunpeng, shipping was prompt and not too long, coming from China. Thanks again, Mr. McClain. 1.Edge guide foot set (3/16", but I think I might need the 1/8") for the 111/211. This was the only bit that caused a problem, the inner foot was too tight and would only push halfway up the shaft. I eased out the socket with a grinding bit in a Dremel, that fixed it. Smooth-bottom feet. 2.Standard foot set for 111/211. This came with a split inner foot, which is really what I wanted. I may cut off the right hand toe of the presser foot and convert it to a left-toe type to use with an edge guide. Smooth-bottom feet. 3.Roller wheel assembly for the 331. This came with the needle plate and feed dog (which is just as well as I didn't think of them!). I haven't fitted it yet as I need to raise the presser bar to give more clearance. I don't know if I really need this but it looked nice!!! 4.Standard foot set for the Pfaff 335. As far as I can tell this appears to be identical to the KwokHing set I bought, right down to the cross-hatching on the bottom of the feet. The reason I bought this is that I intend to cut off the right-hand toe so that I can get in closer to the edge guide. Pfaff bits aren't that common so it will be easier to convert this than try to find a left-toe set. The Pfaff set was a bit cheaper than KwokHing, but not much, but not paying extra for shipping is where the savings come in. All up I'm pretty happy with KunPeng and will probably get some more stuff from them later.

"Hello, my name is Red and I am a gamer". I was hoping you'd chime in, Red, and include a bit of "eye candy". Makes me want to make another set (just 'cos I can).

I'm not sure what you mean by "safe". If you spend time looking at various designs that are used for CAS you'll see that many are what I would call "minimalist" holsters, they have enough leather to hold the gun in place and that's about it! There are many excellent photos here from members of different designs, many of which probably meet your criteria. As for modifying the pattern you have, give it a try, there's no reason not to, just make the pattern out of cardboard and play around with shapes first. I started off with copying a Hunter brand holster that came with my revolvers (7 1/2" barrels). It worked, but I thought I could do better. My next pair were patterned after the Andy Andersen design he made for Steve McQueen in The Magnificent Seven - short holsters, made for 5 1/2" barrels, so that the barrels stick out past the ends with extended belt loops so the holsters sit lower (I don't like Buscadero rigs). Suits me much better. Essentially, I played around with cardboard, refining the shape until I had a design that fitted the gun and looked right to me. It's been said that you might end up buying/making three (or more) sets of holsters until you figure out what's right for you!! All part of the fun and learning process.

Kroil is another one of those products (along with Johnson Paste Wax and DuPont spray dry lube) that we can't get in Oz. Funnily enough, those last two products have a regular high "request rate" in various forums here. ATF, on the other hand, is easy to get as autos are quite common in Oz. There are many so-called "rust loosening/unseizing" products around and I tend to look up the MSDS whenever I come across one. Most of them are just various forms of light oils and distillates, nothing special in my opinion. You'd probably understand their makeup a bit (lot?) better than me, Mike.

In the meantime, have you tried hand stitching? Some of the items you mentioned are relatively small, so could be hand stitched, plus you can then say that they are handsewn (which, in my experience, inevitably impresses people no end ). I mainly use my machines for long runs around belt edges or long decorative stitching on belts. For everything else I'm doing (so far) I hand stitch. Mainly because I always seem to want to make "odd" things that don't lend themselves to machine sewing.

WD-40 has long been touted as the "do all" solution, and as Mike pointed out is pretty much universally available - but in reality its uses are limited! It displaces water (what it was designed to do), has limited lubricating properties, does nothing for rust prevention (it actually washes off if left in the rain!) and, in my experience, it's penetrating abilities aren't that good. Mike's warnings notwithstanding, the ATF-acetone mix has been mentioned on all sorts of forums as a very effective penetrating liquid for loosening stuck/rusted fittings.

If you can get a small cut-off wheel in a Dremel in there it may be possible to deepen/square up the screwdriver slot. Sometimes localised heat applied to the screwhead can also help to break the thread free (I use a Dremel butane torch that has a pinpoint flame). Or, as has been mentioned, twist a screwdriver while giving it sharp wacks with a hammer. Screws are often boogered like that by people using carpenters'-type screwdrivers, which aren't shaped correctly for machine screws. Same problem is often found on firearms.

What a fascinating machine, Rocky. I gather that the arm can be rotated (about 160 degrees or so)? Watching that video that Wiz posted reminds me of the old American adage - there's no replacement for cubic inches!! That machine is a brute, going through that thick sole like it was paper (and with thread resembling small rope!!). Even if the OP could modify a suitable machine by fitting the "horn" (mission impossible, I reckon) it would probably lack the brute force required to punch through sole leather and would still be limited in thread/needle size. It's not something I would even consider.

I think that sums it up pretty well. It's designed to enable the fitting of additional features, such as pneumatic operation and computer control. If you've got the money they might be nice to have but hardly necessary for most people's needs. That extra 1500Euros could buy a lot of leather, thread and needles!

Amazing! I love the "calibrated leather wedge" for adjusting the pressure - very technical!!

Looks like you're onto a good thing, pc.. Plus it sounds like that machine may be a better fit for what you're actually doing. I've made a few Western-style rigs/holsters and was a little disappointed at first when I realised than none of my machines were suitable for stitching the holsters (their capabilities are probably similar to the machine you're looking at) but then I figured I was better of hand stitching them anyway as it gives a stronger product and I feel that I have greater control over the process. The machines are great for the belts, however, which I found very time-consuming when hand stitching.

I'm with northmount, I reckon the needle is too small for T20 thread. I've been experimenting with my 335, trying to get it to sew T20 (138) thread and I finally got it working using a 140/22 needle.

Nice birthday present!! Wish someone would give me a pair.....

If it were me the Seiko would be first, if I had the money, however I'd have no qualms about the 206 as long as it's in good working condition. They're based on the Singer 111 series so bits and pieces (feet, bobbins etc) shouldn't be too hard to find. And old Singers just keep going...and going...and going...

Well, he is a saddlemaker.......

I'd like to add to what Wiz said re-needle positioners - if you're sewing slowly I don't reckon you'll need one. I tried one but didn't really like it, because I sew slow stopping where I want has never been an issue.

Brian, the thread arrived today, many thanks (but I wish you'd at least let me pay for the postage!). I loaded up the Pfaff and ran 12" or so of stitches down an old belt - no snagging, but I did get a lot of dropped stitches!! Oh well, I figured that might be easier to deal with than the snagging. I fiddled with the tension, but that had no effect. It was fine if I went very slow, but as soon as I picked up speed it became unreliable. Something I learned a long time ago (when fault-finding telephone exchanges!) was to listen to the rhythm of machinery when it's working. So, I listened to the mechanical "rattling" of the machine as it stitched, and could soon tell when it dropped stitches by the change in sound from the bobbin area. I then noticed that the bobbin drive shaft had a little bit of back and forth play in it and traced this to the top shaft bevel gears. Unlikely to be the problem, I think, but after a bit of stuffing around I managed to take up the slack, but I'm now wondering if the bobbin case has too much play in the race assembly. I'll have to experiment a bit more, but I'm having a rest at the moment (haven't been feeling too well for a while, gastro etc ).