dikman

WD-40 has long been touted as the "do all" solution, and as Mike pointed out is pretty much universally available - but in reality its uses are limited! It displaces water (what it was designed to do), has limited lubricating properties, does nothing for rust prevention (it actually washes off if left in the rain!) and, in my experience, it's penetrating abilities aren't that good. Mike's warnings notwithstanding, the ATF-acetone mix has been mentioned on all sorts of forums as a very effective penetrating liquid for loosening stuck/rusted fittings.

If you can get a small cut-off wheel in a Dremel in there it may be possible to deepen/square up the screwdriver slot. Sometimes localised heat applied to the screwhead can also help to break the thread free (I use a Dremel butane torch that has a pinpoint flame). Or, as has been mentioned, twist a screwdriver while giving it sharp wacks with a hammer. Screws are often boogered like that by people using carpenters'-type screwdrivers, which aren't shaped correctly for machine screws. Same problem is often found on firearms.

What a fascinating machine, Rocky. I gather that the arm can be rotated (about 160 degrees or so)? Watching that video that Wiz posted reminds me of the old American adage - there's no replacement for cubic inches!! That machine is a brute, going through that thick sole like it was paper (and with thread resembling small rope!!). Even if the OP could modify a suitable machine by fitting the "horn" (mission impossible, I reckon) it would probably lack the brute force required to punch through sole leather and would still be limited in thread/needle size. It's not something I would even consider.

I think that sums it up pretty well. It's designed to enable the fitting of additional features, such as pneumatic operation and computer control. If you've got the money they might be nice to have but hardly necessary for most people's needs. That extra 1500Euros could buy a lot of leather, thread and needles!

Amazing! I love the "calibrated leather wedge" for adjusting the pressure - very technical!!

Looks like you're onto a good thing, pc.. Plus it sounds like that machine may be a better fit for what you're actually doing. I've made a few Western-style rigs/holsters and was a little disappointed at first when I realised than none of my machines were suitable for stitching the holsters (their capabilities are probably similar to the machine you're looking at) but then I figured I was better of hand stitching them anyway as it gives a stronger product and I feel that I have greater control over the process. The machines are great for the belts, however, which I found very time-consuming when hand stitching.

I'm with northmount, I reckon the needle is too small for T20 thread. I've been experimenting with my 335, trying to get it to sew T20 (138) thread and I finally got it working using a 140/22 needle.

Nice birthday present!! Wish someone would give me a pair.....

If it were me the Seiko would be first, if I had the money, however I'd have no qualms about the 206 as long as it's in good working condition. They're based on the Singer 111 series so bits and pieces (feet, bobbins etc) shouldn't be too hard to find. And old Singers just keep going...and going...and going...

Well, he is a saddlemaker.......

I'd like to add to what Wiz said re-needle positioners - if you're sewing slowly I don't reckon you'll need one. I tried one but didn't really like it, because I sew slow stopping where I want has never been an issue.

Brian, the thread arrived today, many thanks (but I wish you'd at least let me pay for the postage!). I loaded up the Pfaff and ran 12" or so of stitches down an old belt - no snagging, but I did get a lot of dropped stitches!! Oh well, I figured that might be easier to deal with than the snagging. I fiddled with the tension, but that had no effect. It was fine if I went very slow, but as soon as I picked up speed it became unreliable. Something I learned a long time ago (when fault-finding telephone exchanges!) was to listen to the rhythm of machinery when it's working. So, I listened to the mechanical "rattling" of the machine as it stitched, and could soon tell when it dropped stitches by the change in sound from the bobbin area. I then noticed that the bobbin drive shaft had a little bit of back and forth play in it and traced this to the top shaft bevel gears. Unlikely to be the problem, I think, but after a bit of stuffing around I managed to take up the slack, but I'm now wondering if the bobbin case has too much play in the race assembly. I'll have to experiment a bit more, but I'm having a rest at the moment (haven't been feeling too well for a while, gastro etc ).

I'm assuming we're talking a single holster if putting in a curve?

Well done, Dwight! I'm a great believer in using what's available (which is why I have all manner of "stuff" squirreled away!!). As for forgetting things, you're not alone there. I don't believe it's actually "forgetting" rather a case of trying to do more than one thing at a time and getting distracted. I wish I had a $ for the number of times I've walked into my shed, or a room, and thought "damn, now what did I come here for?!!!).

clintoo, I've bought three servos from China, two 500w and a 750w. I fitted a 500w to my Pfaff 335 and it has plenty of grunt, although I have also fitted a larger (8") pulley to the machine itself. If you can afford the 750w it probably makes sense to get it, but in all honesty the 500w will probably be more than adequate. I bought mine from Lishui Skyrit (on Aliexpress), mainly because they have a warehouse in Sydney and shipping was included, so instead of waiting weeks to get here from China it only took a few days! As for the price difference, it's no different to anything else that is imported and resold by another company here, there will always be markups!! If you look at their site, make sure that you tick the "ship from Australia" box. Oh, nearly forgot, they come standard with a 75mm pulley. I requested a smaller 45mm pulley when I placed the order but these had to be sent from China so took a bit longer to get here. (I've had no problems dealing with this company).

Clintoo, $400 for a Pfaff walking foot is pretty good (for Australia!). It looks a bit like a flat bed version of the 335 (to me at least). If the machine is working ok, and does what you want, then give serious thought to fitting a servo - it will tame the beast, so to speak.

Dani, if you lay the two hooks on top of each other you should be able to see what needs grinding. I used a Dremel with a thin cutting disc and gradually removed metal from the throat area at the base of the hook. Mine did exactly the same as you describe. This should show you where it needs opening up. It was a matter of trial and error, comparing the old and new, removing a bit of metal, trying the fit, then removing a bit more etc. (This is the original hook).

Thanks for the excellent site link, Mr. McClain. They have some great feet sets available for my machines, including the Pfaff, and even have a roller foot assembly that will fit my 331! looks like I'll be putting a shopping list together.

I have a similar issue, BHP, and this thread got me thinking. A box, with a fan blowing in warm air, should dry things pretty fast, I would think? So instead of messing around with lights just use a low-powered heater with a fan? Just thinking....

Great how-to blog, Dani, and nice job on the restoration. I recently got a 331K4 working and it uses the same hook assembly as yours. The hook on mine was very worn so I bought a "generic" replacement, but found it jammed up the machine when I tried to turn it!!! I had to use a grinding wheel to open up the throat behind the hook. Glad yours worked ok.

If you use the right type of RTV silicone for the mold then you could also cast them out of lead. Thanks for the idea - I have some low temp silicone (from when I was messing around with models) and some casting resin so I might have to make up a couple of molds.

Sounds like your medication might need changing......

Rocky, pm sent.

My 335 is very fussy about #138 thread (unfortunately). First one I tried was a braided thread, the hook kept snagging the thread (I suspect it was the braid "opening up" a tiny bit as the loop was formed). Next one was Serafil, a twisted cotton/polyester blend which also snagged, but less often. Last one is a fully synthetic twisted, which still catches occasionally. I've got the hook as close as I can to the needle but it has still proven to be unreliable. I'm still working on it, as there's no reason I can see why it shouldn't work...... It's fine with #69, by the way. I'd suggest you make sure that the hook timing is as good as you can get with the larger needle, hopefully you won't have the troubles I'm having.

Now that sounds like a plan, Mark..